Exumas

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whgoffrn
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Exumas

Post by whgoffrn »

I've lately been contemplating a long vacation with my kids before they get old enough that they no longer want to and have always dreamed of and regularly watch YouTube videos of others sailing in the exumas ... and it has me wondering if it's possible next year ..... kids summer vacations are usually 2 months long from June 1 till aug 1 .... and I realize in these smaller boats waiting on weather is a necessity...for those that have made this trip is 2 months long enough of a time frame to afford you to wait weather windows during the summer months and still get to see a lot of the popular attractions bimini / feed iguanas / pigs thunderball grotto etc etc etc just curious if 2 months is enough time or if that would be rushing to see a good bit of the exumas and hot spots that most go there to see?
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Re: Exumas

Post by bahama bound »

Lets go !
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Sumner
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Re: Exumas

Post by Sumner »

Yes, and about the minimum amount of time I'd want to spend on a trip like that. I was gone about 3 months but also had to work down the west coast of FL and over to the east coast.

I wouldn't want to be in Florida at that time on a boat, too hot, humid, and not much for winds except during squalls and then they are to strong. Can't say what it would be like over there but I would think somewhat similar. I do realize though that with the kids in school this is your only option. You would be in hurricane season over there so would have to be very diligent about that and dealing with thunderstorms and the associated winds.

If you enter through Bimini you have a long run to the Berrys. You will probably use the motor a fair amount to make sure you get in before dark. You will have longer daylight in your favor so up early and get going and you should make it before dark.

A better option in my mind if you enter at Bimini would be to check in there and then, weather permitting, move south and anchor off the east side of North Cat Cay. Then up in the morning and leave early for the Northwest Channel and the Berry's. This would cut miles off and also you wouldn't have to try and get out of Bimini and around the north end early in the day. Another option would be to move around onto the NE side of Bimini and anchor and leave from there.

I went as far south as Georgetown at the southern end of the Exumas but have no real interest in going there again. To go there you are out in open water and have to get to that open water through one of the cuts. It proved to be the most fearful day I had on the trip, but coming back the same way was fine. I should of waited in hindsight one more day before going south. I won't go back, although with the bigger boat I wouldn't worry like was the case with the Mac, but I'd rather spend those days north of there in the Exumas.

One other note on routes. The normal route, and one I took is from Bimini to the Berrys. The Berrys to Nassau or near there (open, deep water...cross only when conditions are good). I had no interest in Nassau so didn't go in but some like it. From the Nassau area onto the Exumas in a day.

Another option going or returning is Bimini to Morgan's Bluff on the north end of Andros Island. Down the east side of Andros and then cross over to the Exumas north of Green Island via what is called the Decca Channel ...

https://christianallaire.wordpress.com/category/exumas/

The charts show this route. This would bypass Nassau and still give you places to refuel/supply. Or Bimini to Berrys to Andros and then Decca Channel. This route would put you into the lower Exumas. So one could use it to get to the Exumas or to return if you started on the north end coming from Nassau.

Next time we go over we plan on leaving from Marathon and going overnight to Morgan's Bluff where we will check in and then onto the Exumas by going south and then using the Decca Channel route. Our boat is on FL's west coast so we have to go by Marathon anyway and I would rather skip Bimini and save that time for further east. There will be two of us so overnight isn't as big a deal as it would be for you or someone single-handing.

It is going to be a long time on a small boat for you and the crew. Before going I for sure would try and do something at least 2-3 weeks before that with no marinas and see how you and the crew fair. A good warm-up for you, the kids and the boat would be down FL's southwest coast to the 10,000 Islands, the Everglades, cross Florida Bay to the Keys and then back again. Besides the time on the boat together is would be a learning experience for you and them navigating, preparing a food list and cooking, anchoring and living day to day in a remote situation (which a lot of the Bahamas is). Remember that if for some reason you were hurt, they need to be able to handle the boat and get you and them to some place safe. A trip like this and the Bahama's would be a great experience. Good luck,

Sumner

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Chinook
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Re: Exumas

Post by Chinook »

I concur with all of Sumner's observations and comments. Very good advice. His remarks about summer season are on target. Hot and humid, and insects are likely to be more of a problem. Don't underestimate the thunderstorms and squalls, and make sure you have a means of receiving up to date weather info, both for squall activity as well as large tropical storms. One compensating factor is that the deep sea fishing should be very good during the summer. Be sure and have gear so you can troll for mahi mahi and other great fish. A portable single side band receiver, along with the frequency and broadcast times for Tom Parker's weather, is essential. I can add a bit regarding Sum's remarks on possibly using the Decca Channel. We made the passage from Morgan's Bluff down the east side of Andros, as far as Fresh Creek early last year. We went down inside the reef, a route which is given horror story reviews in all the cruising guides. We found the route to be very doable for a boat with the Mac's draft. We never passed over water less than 7 feet deep, and with the water being so clear, it was easy to avoid the patchy dark coral areas. It gives you a protected water option, with access to a number of nice, seldom used anchorages. I'm thinking that good sailing winds may be in short supply at that time of year. Be sure and have enough gas on board to give you enough cruising range under power. I would think 30 gallons should be a minimum. Also, if you can swing installing autopilot, it would be nice. There are numerous long passages involved in going to the Exumas, and it's nice to be able to let go of the wheel from time to time. If you haven't looked at, you might enjoy reviewing my blog on our 2011 trip to the Exumas. It can be found at http://chinook.cecka.us. Have fun with your preparations and planning. Hope the trip comes together for you. It's one of the outstanding places which, with careful planning, can be accessed with a Mac.
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Re: Exumas

Post by whgoffrn »

For the heat and humidity we have installed an a.c. unit and generator now ...only to sleep with we lived and boated
Around cocoa beach fl and slept in the boat in summer months with no a.c. and was fine then ....with young kids going I'm sure I would stay at a marina at times especially if weather looked bad so cost would go up .... and extra precautions would need to be made coconsidering the ages of my kids 11 and 12. I'd prob stay away from marinas more if it was just me but this trip is more about time with my kids ..... I have good anchors a 35lb and 22lb Mantus along with another delta .... I've reolaced all stays and upgraded to thicker stay for the roller furler.....my biggest upgrades I'd need to make between now and then would be electronics and 4x 6gal gas tanks .... I've got a mast mounted vhf but need to upgrade to radar where I can be seen by the bigger ships and call them if I see we are coming close

But my biggest wonder is if 2 months is long enough of a time frame to go safely...i would probably guess the farthest I'd go is staniel cay since it's got the pigs thunderball grotto and the sunken airplane....i most likely would stop there
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Chinook
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Re: Exumas

Post by Chinook »

Radar wouldn't be high on my list of upgrades for a trip to the Exumas, but a VHF radio with AIS is definitely a good idea. If you simply install a receiver unit, you'll be able to see the locations of commercial vessels, which are required to utilize AIS transmitters. Many large pleasure craft also transmit AIS signals as well. Once you see an AIS target you can identify the vessel by type, speed, bearing, and name, which is very helpful if you wish to hail them on the radio. Marina options with electrical power are quite limited. You can stay at a marina at Bimini. After leaving there, next possibility is Chub Cay, which is in the process of converting itself into a private club, catering mostly to sport fishermen. They told us they'd still accept transients on a short term membership basis, but not sure how much that will cost. There are no electrical hookup possibilities at Morgan's Bluff, nor at Fresh Creek, both of which are on Andros. Marinas with electric are available at Nassau, but watch out if you stay there. Boat wakes roll in to the marinas, and theft can be a problem. Only marina I can think of, out in the Exumas, with electric power would be the sport fishing center at Highbourne Cay. There may be one or two others, but I'm not thinking of them in the northern Exumas. Be sure to pick up Explorers Charts for the western and central Bahamas, as well as one or two good cruising guides.
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Sumner
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Re: Exumas

Post by Sumner »

I agree about skipping the radar. I don't think it helps ships see you. As Mike said AIS is the way to go. If you wanted to also be seen then AIS with a transponder (over $600). The shipping channels will be over to Bimini and on to Nassau to a lesser degree. I had one large ship towing another come close to me at night on the run from Bimini over and they had no AIS. Below Nassau you will occasionally see larger boats supplying the islands and some of the yachts are real large.

I think you are going to have a hard time finding marinas on any kind of regular basis, but I didn't search for them before the trip myself. They are also going to be quite high. I just checked Highbourne and a night there for a Mac with electricity would be $96.50. I got gas there going and coming but anchored out.

http://1fatgmc.com/boat/mac-1/2015%20Ba ... age-7.html

I was able one of the times to anchor inside and think Mike might of done that also. It is a private cay so no walking around there but you can go eat at the restaurant (probably expensive). Very near Highbourne is Allen Cay...

Image
http://1fatgmc.com/boat/mac-1/2015%20Ba ... age-6.html

... where the iguanas are. Have to anchor there. You could make a day trip back and forth from Highbourne, but personally I feel that is really loosing out on the experience of the Exumas, which is....

Image

..... there are so many beautiful places to anchor by yourself or with just a few others and to me that sure beats sitting in a Marina tied up right next to someone else.

Not saying not to go to Staniel Cay, but there are tour boats going there all the time. There are two beautiful grottoes ....

Image
http://1fatgmc.com/boat/mac-1/2015%20Ba ... ge-19.html

.... and a great reef to swim over at Fowl Cay north of Staniel. I loved it there and want to revisit for sure. There were a couple other people at the grotto but had time in both just alone with my friends. Another great place to have a Mac, as you can anchor there at Fowl Cay in a very protected anchorage, where larger boats can't get in.

I think 2 months is plenty of time if you are leaving from FL's east coast. There are not going to be any cold fronts going through but if there is a major tropical storm or worse that could delay you a week or so at some point. I had experiences with 5 different thunderstorms on the trip and one early tropical storm. One of the thunderstorms/squall was not a good experience in the night crossing to the Berrys. Getting wrapped up in a squall can test one's anxiety level. It is my understanding that there are more squalls during the summer months.

If you can't make an extended trip with the kids this summer and they will be 11 and 12 next summer I'd still suggest a longer trip with them in the Keys for instance next summer as a warm-up. They might actually enjoy the Bahamas more when they are a little older and would also be able to take on more responsibilities. Just a thought,

Sumner

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whgoffrn
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Re: Exumas

Post by whgoffrn »

Sorry yes ais is what I was referring to I couldn't think of the term as where we sail typically It's not necessary ...im sure there is a list of other things between now and then ais , epirb , plb for each person or water proof GPS... probably send my main off to have 3rd reef put in we were heeled at 30 degrees last week with reefed main and 1/4 of the jib rolled out. I'm sure I could think of quite a long list of safety precautions to take us from our current situation where we are safe for the keys and icw to the exumas (ais drogues 3rd reef sea anchor etc etc just isn't necessary for the 5 or so miles off the coast we travel now out to the reefline for a day sail then marina or on the hook on the bay side of keys)
We've done 3 trips to the keys now stayed on the hook a couple days with no issues and hit some nasty storms on the hook in icw many times when we lived in fl.... this last weekend we spent 4 hours in a storm of I'd guess 40-50mph winds in ky that was more nerve wracking than any of the storms on Florida....mostly because I had only brought my smaller Mantus anchor and left the 35lb one at home and a scope of 3:1 at 200 feet off a rocky bank and the anchor never budged ...i didn't sleep till winds died down but we stayed put
So we've done some learning and each week is new lessons (don't underestimate a storm in ky thinking it can't be as bad as you're used to) we've slept on the hook in some trying conditions have 12 Davis rocker stoppers we put 3 off each stanchion to lesson some of the rocking but not rip a stanch ion off and anchoring in the bay in the keys the times we've done it was a peaceful nights sleep...this year is going to be another trip to the keys / upper keys this time but with my kids getting older each year I'm highly considering a bigger than usual trip since in the years to come hanging out with dad won't be cool anymore ..... and yeah not having marinas is good too....we have 100watts of solar and a generator .... may jump solar up to 200 if we get an angel fridge .... as long as 2 months is an adequate time to make it to staniel cay in a safe manner I feel ready (with of course a few boat bux worth of upgrades in electronics and other provisions)
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Sumner
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Re: Exumas

Post by Sumner »

Sounds like you have done a lot of good mods. I'm all about anchoring but can't image you needing a 35# anchor. The Mantus along with another anchor of similar quality and weight should be plenty. I have a 22 lb. Bruce along with the 25 lb. Manson Supreme and a broke down Fortress FX-11 that I've never had to use yet and one additional rode with line and 25-30' chain.

I don't think you need a drogue/sea anchor. The 3rd reef might be good. I had a second added (my first was a little higher than normal) as I could of used it a few times to balance the boat out.

Sounds like you have used the anchors a good bit. I'm not suggesting a 2 week or so cruise just to get the anchoring experience. It is more about getting to know if you are setup well for water and food and how you all deal with being just with yourselves.

I only went into one store over there that resembled a store you would of found here in a small town 25-30 years ago and that was in George Town. Other than that it was very small buildings behind someone's house with some goods up on shelves. Fresh vegetables are about non-existent. Food will also be very expensive by our standards. Water and fuel can be hard to come-by as well as getting rid of trash. All of that including the trash can cost to deal with. Black Point not far south of Staniel is a good place to go into for free water, donate what you want for the trash you leave, a laundromat and some groceries at people's home stores. I would find where you can get gas before the trip for sure. I got it going and coming at Highbourne. I have a 19 gallon tank and carried about 12 gallons in containers and never came close to running out but ran the 9.8 HP conservatively and on the way home sailed almost all the way from Highbourne.

I suggest you be able to carry food and water for 2 weeks minimum.

If you get the fridge, good idea, I'd for sure go to 200 watts. 200 watts would take care of over 90% of electrical needs with our 63 quart Edgestar and keep up for multiple days at a time. A longer trip would also give you an idea of how the solar does. I normally only add a drink or two a day that has to be cooled down. Sometimes if there have been cloudy days you have to play catch-up. Sounds like you are taking a generator which could do that. Do you run a charger off of it?

Yes a storm is a storm...

Image
http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner ... ll-09.html

... ended up with a fractured shoulder and screwed up rotator cuff in 50+ mph winds on Lake Powell tied between shore and a small rock island. Sat there for a few days as I couldn't pull start the outboard and neither could Ruth. One reason for the elect. start Tohatsu now. The crew has to be ready for stuff like this.

Keep doing what you are doing and you should have a trip to remember,

Sumner

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1300 miles to the Bahamas and back -- 2015

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whgoffrn
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Re: Exumas

Post by whgoffrn »

Some of the thoughts on this are time with kids and I don't think when I'm on my death bed I'll regret buying the katadyn 40 desalinator....it runs off dc and doesn't draw much amps ....me and my kids have always enjoyed camping and getting off the beaten path type of get aways... when we used to use our rv it very rarely went into a camp site and we rarely used the genetator either. we have a dehydrator and take all food out of packages and consolidate so there is no trash or the attempt of very very little of it.... ..... dehydrated fruits and vegtables in vacuum sealed resealable bags is how we've done it usually and a desalination would help with lowering trash down also...i have an Excalibur dehydrator and can dehydrate large amounts of food that lasts quite a while..... my father before he passed away got me into the "doomsday prepper" stuff and I've sorta adapted that to sailing..... so before I would make a trip like this it would be at a large expense the desalinator but if try to get 75% of it back by selling on eBay it after the trip it would be well worth it so I don't have to lug jugs back and forth on our dinghy ..plus id like to be able to wash clothes in one of those manual small washers...from reading on the 40e model they have a manual mode also for emergency use.... the units are expensive but if I can get all but 1000 back selling it used on eBay later it would be well worth it.....maybe I can find a used one in the next 12 months and break even? .... the food situation and water is honestly the least of my worries as my father made a "prepper" out of me and my kids actually really enjoy it as well ...... the safety of the trip is my biggest concern. That's why my mind jumps to thinking sea anchor and drogues ....ive sorta been in some bad storms but I've escaped most that have that have came through one in particular I remember being 93 mph winds I was on the icw and tucked behind of an island and tied my anchor to a palm tree... the icw waves were bad but honestly I feel even if I got caught in it we would have been fine .... I've just never seen what the ocean does 15 miles from land when a squall runs through....do the wave heights jump up to 10s? I guess that's my apprehension is I've generally stayed close to shore 20 miles being my longest sail and I was probably 5miles from shore at most ....and I always had places to run or partially run to get behind an island tuck in behind something else etc etc the crossing the gulf and over to chub cay is what worries me.....hitting a squall 30 miles from land
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Re: Exumas

Post by whgoffrn »

I sorta wonder if rigging up a rain catcher with a tarp and a hose fitting would also work ...... keep in mind I already have some pretty good water filtration stuff (sawyer 0.1) for the zombie apocalypse:-/ supposedly the filter will filter out all bacteria and anything bigger than 0.1 ......if could just devise a system to catch large quantities of rain water
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sailboatmike
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Re: Exumas

Post by sailboatmike »

For wave height normally shallower water is the worst, especially when swells come out of the deep and run into the shallower stuff, this makes the swells much higher, shorter distance between them and much steeper. (as per when waves stand up and break on a break).

Of course if you get wind against tide this makes for uncomfortable conditions, if possible sailing slightly further off the wind makes makes the motion better.

Excellent article on PBO website about this
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Sumner
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Re: Exumas

Post by Sumner »

sailboatmike wrote:For wave height normally shallower water is the worst, especially when swells come out of the deep and run into the shallower stuff, this makes the swells much higher, shorter distance between them and much steeper. (as per when waves stand up and break on a break)....
Exactly what I ran into going out the cut at Rat Cay on the way to George Town. You are going from shallow water into Exuma Sound where the water is over 3,000 feet deep and the wind had been hard out of the east for a couple days and the swells were still coming in. I waited and went through the cut at slack tide and it was flat and protected by the angle of the opening to Exuma Sound and I thought this was going to be a easy, but just past the protected point it was the worst waves I have ever experience and hope to never go through that again.

http://1fatgmc.com/boat/mac-1/2015%20Ba ... ge-12.html

I should of waited a day as the trip back through that area was non-eventful,

Sumner

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1300 miles to the Bahamas and back -- 2015

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The Endeavour 37

Trips to Utah, Wyoming, Idaho, Canada, Florida

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sailboatmike
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Re: Exumas

Post by sailboatmike »

One more thing I have found very handy in my home sailing grounds which tend to really suffer from very short, very steep cross swells when Im heading in or out of the channel is I always put my jib out about 1/2 way, this really stops the boat yawing around a great deal when hit by a swell. The channels I use are normally pretty narrow (around 35 yards) and have steep sides and very little water on each side if you miss the channel, so yawing around when there is another boat heading toward you is disconcerting for both me and the poor person coming toward me
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Re: Exumas

Post by Chinook »

On one of our first extended trips in the Mac I played around with trying to catch rainwater. I rigged a small tarp with a drain fitting near the middle, and connected it to a plastic tube which I ran to the deck fill I'd installed for our freshwater system. When the first threatening rainstorm moved in, I tied the corners of the tarp to rigging and eagerly waited for copious quantities of free fresh water to pour into our tank. I did manage to collect a few drops of water before a strong gust of wind turned the whole thing into a horizontal sail. It got sucked upwards by the wind, which left it completely useless for catching rain. It might have worked here in the northwest, where we often get tame, gentle rains with little wind. Of course, it's totally useless here, because freshwater is definitely not in short supply or hard to come by around here. The rainstorms down in subtropical waters are another story. I never pursued a solution to the challenge of catching rainwater, focusing instead on tank capacity and economical use of the supplies on board. I suspect I'd resume experimentation if I ever ended up adrift on the open ocean, with water tank level running low and beer supply rapidly diminishing.
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