Gooseneck Tube
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- MSN-Travelers
- Chief Steward
- Posts: 74
- Joined: Tue Jul 18, 2006 9:56 am
- Sailboat: Venture 25
- Location: SE Wisconsin ... "Witchcraft" ... `99 Beneteau Oceanis 352 w/ Yanmar 27
Gooseneck Tube
I may not be using the correct terminoligy here ... the tube that connects the boom to the mast and has two (roughly) 1/4 inch holes that are 90 degrees from eachother on either end.
The threaded portion of one of the bolts has eaten away at the tube to the point that I'm afraid the tube will break under load.
I will replace the bolts with SS clevis pins but I don't know where to get a replacement tube (or what material to use to make a replacement tube).
Any advice?
Paul
The threaded portion of one of the bolts has eaten away at the tube to the point that I'm afraid the tube will break under load.
I will replace the bolts with SS clevis pins but I don't know where to get a replacement tube (or what material to use to make a replacement tube).
Any advice?
Paul
Re: Gooseneck Tube
I'm partial to the tube-style gooseneck, and I'm unsure how I'd replace it with a solid rod. The tube fits into a vertical C-bracket at the mast, same style horizontal C-bracket at the boom.
But there's a chain retailer named Metals Supermarket (or similar) that sells every possible description of raw materials metals. They would surely have a length of stainless tubing ... but I wouldn't have known to ask for 304 ... thx Chip.
In a pinch, you could use any similar sized metal, like galvanized conduit, even copper tubing. As the factory once explained to me, except for heavy application of the boomvang, there's not a lot of stress at that joint.
But there's a chain retailer named Metals Supermarket (or similar) that sells every possible description of raw materials metals. They would surely have a length of stainless tubing ... but I wouldn't have known to ask for 304 ... thx Chip.
In a pinch, you could use any similar sized metal, like galvanized conduit, even copper tubing. As the factory once explained to me, except for heavy application of the boomvang, there's not a lot of stress at that joint.

- Chip Hindes
- Admiral
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- Location: West Sand Lake, NY '01X, "Nextboat" 50HP Tohatsu
Re: Gooseneck Tube
Pretty sure Paul and I are on the same page, but not sure Frank is talking about the same thing.
The tube I thought Pual was describing is a cylindrical piece about 1/2" or 5/8 diameter by perhaps 2" long. It has two 1/4" cross holes, one at each end, at 90 degrees to each other. One end bolts between the horizontal ears on the riveted gooseneck fitting on the mast, the other end bolts between the similar vertical ears on the forward end of the boom. It serves more or less as a universal joint beween the mast and boom. Solid or tubular, it makes no difference functionally.
304SS, also called 18-8 CRES, is the nmost common grade of "stainless" steel. It reasonable in cost, weldable and reasonably machinable; It's almost certain all the SS in the Mac is 304.
316SS is considerably more dfficult to machine and about 25% more in cost. It's used on higher end stuff.
Metals Supermarket advertizes that they have everything, but at least in our city what they really mean is that they can order it for you. They may have 304SS in common sizes in stock, but unlikely to have 316.
The tube I thought Pual was describing is a cylindrical piece about 1/2" or 5/8 diameter by perhaps 2" long. It has two 1/4" cross holes, one at each end, at 90 degrees to each other. One end bolts between the horizontal ears on the riveted gooseneck fitting on the mast, the other end bolts between the similar vertical ears on the forward end of the boom. It serves more or less as a universal joint beween the mast and boom. Solid or tubular, it makes no difference functionally.
304SS, also called 18-8 CRES, is the nmost common grade of "stainless" steel. It reasonable in cost, weldable and reasonably machinable; It's almost certain all the SS in the Mac is 304.
316SS is considerably more dfficult to machine and about 25% more in cost. It's used on higher end stuff.
Metals Supermarket advertizes that they have everything, but at least in our city what they really mean is that they can order it for you. They may have 304SS in common sizes in stock, but unlikely to have 316.
Re: Gooseneck Tube
Right ... I was referring to those "ears" as a piece of C-channel.
But now I understand your point, Chip. One could easily cross-drill a bolt if its diameter was large enough ... maybe 9/16ths?
But now I understand your point, Chip. One could easily cross-drill a bolt if its diameter was large enough ... maybe 9/16ths?
- MSN-Travelers
- Chief Steward
- Posts: 74
- Joined: Tue Jul 18, 2006 9:56 am
- Sailboat: Venture 25
- Location: SE Wisconsin ... "Witchcraft" ... `99 Beneteau Oceanis 352 w/ Yanmar 27
Re: Gooseneck Tube
Thanks for all of the information. K-H only sells the entire goose neck assembly so I have ordered a replacement tube from BWY (along with other stuff). The cost is about $5 + S&H.
I have also taken a grade 8, 3/4" X 5" bolt, wacked off the head `n threads and made a temporary replacement. The finished connector is 3/4" diameter and 2" long with the appropriate 1/4" holes drilled near each end.
Paul
I have also taken a grade 8, 3/4" X 5" bolt, wacked off the head `n threads and made a temporary replacement. The finished connector is 3/4" diameter and 2" long with the appropriate 1/4" holes drilled near each end.
Paul
- David Mellon
- Captain
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- Sailboat: MacGregor 26M
- Location: Anaheim, CA-Yamphibian, Yamaha 70, MACM1376C606
Re: Gooseneck Tube
In order to eliminate the damage done to hardware by threaded bolts, I use safety pins at the gooseneck, mains'l tack, spreaders and bow chainplate. I have posted this picture a hundred times but I think of them as my most important mod. They save me hours of frustration and hundreds of dollars in damage. I first saw a photo on this site, someone posted about removable spreaders years ago.

