Replacing ballast valve

Chuck Healey · Post by **Chuck Healey** » Wed Sep 22, 2004 9:53 pm

Lately I've noticed water gets in the ballast tank even when it's closed while towing tubes, water sking etc. How easy it this to replace. Looks like one more thing for my winter project list.

Frank C · Post by **Frank C** » Thu Sep 23, 2004 1:18 am

Chuck,
You didn't say what model/yr is your boat. I've had the ballast valve off of my 2000-X. It's pretty easy, and you can buy a replacement at any RV camping store - they're mainly used for black water holding tanks.

Chip Hindes · Post by **Chip Hindes** » Thu Sep 23, 2004 6:02 am

Unless the valve itself's broken in some way, the seals on the valve can be replaced without replacing the whole thing. Available at RV stores.

Frank C · Post by **Frank C** » Thu Sep 23, 2004 9:34 am

Electric Gate Valve for ~$100

Just noticed this new mod, posted by Bob Kenney. Looks terrific, good job!
Kinda curious though, Bob ... is there a manual override? And, does the actuator extend above the transom lip?

(I added a cable control to my gate valve, but I've never been completely pleased with it. )

Duane Dunn, Allegro · Thu Sep 23, 2004 10:28 am

It's easy, just the 4 screws you see. Be careful though, there are no nuts. The machine screws are just tapped into the fiberglass itself.

There are two sizes. The early boats like mine with the valve on the port side of the motor use a smaller size. A few transition boats with the valve on the starboard side also used the small valve. The later boats had the large valve on the starboard side.

If you have a early boat with the under step valve you should also check the rubber seal on that valve. You just unscrew the butterfly handle all the way and it can be removed out the bottom. Tie a string to the ring ding hole before you drop it and you will find it much easier to get back in place.

Bill at BOATS 4 SAIL · Thu Sep 23, 2004 3:42 pm

Hey Chuck - Until you get your valve fixed, I would strongly suggest you not use your boat unless the ballast tank is full. In my opinion, one of the worst things you can do on a Mac is have a partially filled ballast tank. If someone moves to one side, the center of gravity changes rapidly and the ballast will also move to that side, making the boat very unstable. Your boat will not be self-righting and may capsize.

PeteC · Post by **PeteC** » Thu Sep 23, 2004 7:05 pm

I had the same problem. I replaced the seals and used 3M 5200 to be sure the screw holes here sealed properly. No problems since.

Chuck Healey · Post by **Chuck Healey** » Sat Sep 25, 2004 4:11 pm

Thanks for the replys. It's a later model 99 with the valve on the starboard side. I think it's just the seal thats bad. I'll try to find a replacement at an RV store, in the meantime I wont operate it with the ballast tank empty.

BobK · Post by **BobK** » Mon Sep 27, 2004 9:38 pm

Frank C

The powered valve has a manual override using a slotted screwdriver to open or close. The unit is below the transom lip and nicely out of the way.

Chuck Healey · Post by **Chuck Healey** » Wed Sep 29, 2004 10:45 pm

Bob, I checked out your electric ballast valve and I think I,m going to go that route. Sure would beat hanging over the helm seat to open and close. Just one question though, how did you run the wire from the valve. Did you drill a hole and feed it through the transom or route the wire some other way.
Thanks

Chip Hindes · Post by **Chip Hindes** » Thu Sep 30, 2004 7:10 am

I agree. Why go with a simple extension handle on your ballast valve, when you can install an expensive, complicated, electric version with questionable reliability?

Check out my ballast valve handle modification. It's not the only one, it may not be the best, but it is about as simple as they come, reliable (three years, zero failures, zero maintenance) cost about $15. I had to drill only two holes, about three feet above the waterline. IMO, in everything but the "gee whiz" catergory it is superior to an electric version.

Dimitri-2000X-Tampa · Post by **Dimitri-2000X-Tampa** » Thu Sep 30, 2004 8:47 pm

Yes, I agree with the simpler approach, but mine cost nothing and was a 0 minute install with no holes needed. Its called my boat hook

Seriously, it works great and I never have to open the captains seat anymore. I use the hook part to pull up on the handle, then when its ready to close, I use the rubber tip to push down on the handle. KISS method at its finest.

Kevin · Post by **Kevin** » Thu Sep 30, 2004 8:56 pm

I'm with the boat hook. Works great.

Where I would like to see a possible change is the vent plug. I single hand and somehow I really don't like running below and pulling the plug and then going back again to put it back.

Post by **kmclemore** » Thu Sep 30, 2004 9:52 pm

Dimitri-2000X-Tampa wrote:Yes, I agree with the simpler approach, but mine cost nothing and was a 0 minute install with no holes needed. Its called my boat hook

Seriously, it works great and I never have to open the captains seat anymore. I use the hook part to pull up on the handle, then when its ready to close, I use the rubber tip to push down on the handle. KISS method at its finest.

Ha! I love it, Dimitri! Absolutely.. that's exactly what I do, too!

Steve M · Post by **Steve M** » Fri Oct 01, 2004 6:24 am

I have a question,
Suppose one cements a length of clear plastic tubing to the vent opening. Make it so that it is higher than the water line. Leave it open at the top. Wouldnt it then become a "No going down bellow" arrangement?
Steve

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MacGregorSailors.com

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