26x Winch capacity?

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argonaut
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26x Winch capacity?

Post by argonaut » Sun Nov 21, 2004 5:22 pm

My '97 recently acquired Mac trailer winch is shot- rusted, pawl spring missing, rusted cable with sharp rusted steel "threads", a mess.
I'd like to replace it with something that can stand salt water (stainless or galvanized ) with a strap instead of a cable.
The boat+ballast are ~3750 lbs.
But the winch doesn't need to be able to dead lift that weight... just drag it.
What size winch should I use? (How much force does it take to drag a wet Mac?)

Largest I found locally is 2500 lbs, but there are also several sizes smaller.

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Robert
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Upside Down and Backwards

Post by Robert » Sun Nov 21, 2004 5:36 pm

Is what you need for a winch. Notice that many winches can be "re-configured" to swap the crank handle to the other side so it can fit the Mac26X unusual winch mounting position.
..
You are not trying to lift your Mac26X straight up, just trying to drag it onto the trailer. I think a 1200 Lbs. rated unit would give a nice easy crank effort. Larger than that might not fit. I think the original winch on my Mac26X (I replaced it to get a strap instead of the 6' rope) was no more than a 500 lbs. rated winch.
..
No matter which winch you go with, back it up with another connection between the boat and the trailer just in case the winch pops into frewheeling mode.
..
I replaced my winch twice, once when I wanted better than the stock unit, and a second time when I found a winch with a more secure ratchet paul that was easy to reverse the handle. I kept the second winch handle for use on the third winch because the third handle was too long and would hit the bow guide post thingy sticking out next to the bow stop.

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Tahoe Jack
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26x winch

Post by Tahoe Jack » Sun Nov 21, 2004 8:16 pm

Well, I expect that most 26x's could accomodate at least 4 wenches...., however, you seem to be thinking about loading the boat otherwise....these things are inexpensive...a bit over-design is well spent here.....take a look at this one for $20. I happen to use it for my 26m style mast raising kit...and I found it a far better value than the roughly similar one at WM. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/D ... mber=41694 Note that this is not set up as a hot-link...just copy it.... More is better...to a point, whichever type winch or wench you have in mind. Jack

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Post by Catigale » Mon Nov 22, 2004 5:38 am

On my 2002 X it has the

Shelby Model 5404

Capacity on winch is listed at 1200 pounds

I have never felt this was a strain for the boat - I would describe my load as fairly heavy since we slip it and leave everything on the boat!!

Stephen

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argonaut
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Post by argonaut » Mon Nov 22, 2004 6:49 am

Ummm.... wenches probably do cost more than winches, but really are not substitutable for each other.

I'd think 1200 lbs would do it for a winch, unless I'm launching from a ramp so steep the truck would be in peril.

The wench... Oh I'll pass on that till the boat's more operational.

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Post by Moe » Mon Nov 22, 2004 7:57 am

I'd considered replacing the factory 1200 lb cable winch with an 1800 lb winch with a strap, like the Fulton one on my 15' Whaler trailer.

However, in another thread, Dimitri pointed out that as lightly as the MacGregor is constructed, a stronger winch might pull out the bow eye. Given that Roger probably expects the boat to be powered onto the trailer, from his videos, etc., rather than cranked up, that's probably a good observation. I've reconsidered that now and will stick to a lighter winch.

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Post by Sloop John B » Mon Nov 22, 2004 9:02 pm

When I winch my ballasted boat up, it goes wham, into the forward bunk. It has to come up about six inches, practically straight up, as it comes forward. I have to get in the cab and back out further to get under the boat.

Seems like a lot of stress on the whole winch frame. Had to get the long canvas strap to be able to go back far enough to catch the bow eye.

I should empty ballast before coming up the channel, but it can get hairy if the winds are gusting. I should also think about getting some kind of roller up front. Anyone find success with any certain one?

I run a half inch line through the bow eye three times and around the 'ladder' where it's supported and tie it in a knot, or bend it as some say. That, and the strap are the only things holding it.

I used to motor up on the trailer. I had a half inch line running from the goal posts up around the winch post for 'guidance'. Fum! Too many times I got turned sideways getting severely bounced against the ropes.

Recovery is my hardest part. My mate and I now pull the Mac in like a puppet and I usually get pretty wet.

But for the winch subject, I still have the original which doesn't appear to have been affected by weather, salt, exposure.

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Duane Dunn, Allegro
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Post by Duane Dunn, Allegro » Mon Nov 22, 2004 9:29 pm

I added a roller just ahead of the bow block. The boat now rolls up and on clean as can be. We float the boat in from the dock by hand until it gets to this roller, then I clip on the rope and winch it home.

I have a chain around the ladder with a clip on hook that goes in the bow eye as the safety line for on the road. Quick and easy, no knots.

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argonaut
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Post by argonaut » Tue Nov 23, 2004 6:10 am

The roller idea looks like a real improvement!
I'll look around for a replacement winch.
I'd pictured myself ripping out the boweye with a big monster winch myself.
When I pull the boat out, it shifts and settles a hand's width back of the bow V in the trailer, and trying to pull it forward on the trailer just kind of bends the trailer.
I bet the roller helps with getting the boat nosed in all the way too.

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Post by Catigale » Tue Nov 23, 2004 6:27 am

Argonaut - you should use the Mac bump to get the boat firmly forward on the trailer - basically roll the boat slowly forward (< 5mph) then smartly step on the brake to bring it to its final resting place.

Start slow, if the boat doesnt move then brake a little faster until it does.

The bow eye on the 26X is not designed to take the load of winching the boat up on the trailer fully - the above procedure comes from the owners manual for the 2002 X.

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Post by Moe » Tue Nov 23, 2004 7:07 am

There's a black streak along the keel of my X that's behind the forward bunk. It's actually black paint on top of the gel coat. The only thing I see that it could've rubbed on is the axle itself, although I can't really tell from looking at it, if anything has rubbed on the axle.

I'm thinking of putting one of those plastic slides on the top trailing corner of the axle, like some trailer manufacturers use on crossmembers.

Anyone else seen this before?

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Duane Dunn, Allegro
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Post by Duane Dunn, Allegro » Tue Nov 23, 2004 10:03 am

I haven't had any problems with the keel hitting the axle. I'll get black streaks where occasionally the boat hits the fenders coming in. I sink the trailer until the fenders just vanish under the surface. The boat seems to float in clear over everything.

While the roller makes everthing easier, I mainly installed it because the blocks in the bow support were to far apart and the boat was hitting the metal support under the blocks grinding off gel coat. After two launch and retrevials I had to repair about 30" along the front edge of the boat where the gel coat was mostly gone. MarineTex worked great and has proved to be a much tougher material to have on the leading edge than just gel coat.

Frank C

Post by Frank C » Wed Nov 24, 2004 3:11 am

argonaut wrote:The roller idea looks like a real improvement!
I'll look around for a replacement winch. I'd pictured myself ripping out the boweye with a big monster winch myself.

When I pull the boat out, it shifts and settles a hand's width back of the bow V in the trailer, and trying to pull it forward on the trailer just kind of bends the trailer. I bet the roller helps with getting the boat nosed in all the way too.
The boats all pull back from the V-block as they go up a ramp - it's simple geometry. Though the trailer is inclined down the ramp, the boat is floating over it, perfectly horizontal. Therefore, the V-block is temporarily elevated too high versus the bow. As you winch the bow to the V-block it strikes the block too early, due to the inclined ramp. As the boat settles onto the rear trailer bunk, the bow effectively rises some, leaving a gap to the V-block. If you continue to crank the winch as your driver inches slowly up the ramp, you can have the bow within an inch (or less) of the V-block as the stern settles onto the rear bunk. Drizzle a little dishwash liquid along each bunk before loading the boat . . . it will slide home like an oyster shooter!
8)

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Newell
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Winching onto Trailer

Post by Newell » Wed Nov 24, 2004 12:54 pm

Over the years I have heard about this problem innumerable times. The original winch is rated heavy enough to winch the boat to the V stop without any additional refloating, winching while coming up the ramp (sort of hard to do singelhanded).

The winch is in the wrong position. J. Kerwin came up with the solution in 97 and that's when I changed my winch.

Move the winch on top of the support and drill a hole in the support for the line and problem is solved. Cost $5 for bolts and perhaps a hours worth of work.

Frank C

Post by Frank C » Wed Nov 24, 2004 1:50 pm

Right, Newell. With the winch moved atop the support, it is high enough to physically lift the bow into the winch block while the stern remains afloat. It allows the winch to position the boat fully foward on the bunks.

I'll be doing more singlehanding, which makes my other solution impossible. I've just never moved the winch up, but your experience makes it seem a no-brainer.

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