10 DIY fixes under $20 that add to your boats value
- dlandersson
- Admiral
- Posts: 4949
- Joined: Fri Aug 27, 2010 10:00 am
- Sailboat: MacGregor 26X
- Location: Michigan City
10 DIY fixes under $20 that add to your boats value
10 DIY fixes under $20 that add to your boats value - not gonna lie, the "under $20" got my attention
- Russ
- Admiral
- Posts: 8316
- Joined: Thu Oct 11, 2007 12:01 pm
- Sailboat: MacGregor 26M
- Location: Bozeman, Montana "Luna Azul" 2008 M 70hp Suzi
Re: 10 DIY fixes under $20 that add to your boats value
I need to check hose clamps. I bet Roger used single clamps.
Also, I bet the sink drain hose is time to be replaced.
Good video.
Also, I bet the sink drain hose is time to be replaced.
Good video.
--Russ
- Be Free
- Admiral
- Posts: 1895
- Joined: Fri Nov 23, 2012 6:08 pm
- Sailboat: MacGregor 26X
- Location: Steinhatchee, FL
Re: 10 DIY fixes under $20 that add to your boats value
He did. On the (barely) plus side, they are not normally underwater (but they can be).
Bill
2001 26X Simple Interest
Honda BF40D
"If I were in a hurry I would not have bought a sailboat." Me
2001 26X Simple Interest
Honda BF40D
"If I were in a hurry I would not have bought a sailboat." Me
- Russ
- Admiral
- Posts: 8316
- Joined: Thu Oct 11, 2007 12:01 pm
- Sailboat: MacGregor 26M
- Location: Bozeman, Montana "Luna Azul" 2008 M 70hp Suzi
Re: 10 DIY fixes under $20 that add to your boats value
My
--Russ
-
OverEasy
- Admiral
- Posts: 2899
- Joined: Mon Sep 28, 2020 11:16 am
- Sailboat: MacGregor 26X
- Location: NH & SC
Re: 10 DIY fixes under $20 that add to your boats value
Hi Diandersson!
Nice video! Good tips and suggestions!
Thanks for posting this!
It validates some of what we are already doing or have done.
Regarding the drains:
I found our Mac26X has three potentially below waterline through hull locations.
One port side by the galley ‘sink’ drain
One starboard side by the head ‘sink’ drain
One at the stern for the engine ‘bowl’ drain
We addressed each of the Port and Starboard by adding new marine grade hose to replace the original vinyl and anti siphon loops.
The stern has proven to be a bit more problematic due to the substantial lack of access to this area.
We have mitigated that by regular periodic visual inspections of the tubing and clamps.
It is really a problematic service area.
I don’t really see how one could even add in an effective anti siphon loop …..
If anyone has successfully addressed changing out the stern drain line I’d love to hear/see how!
The bow anchor line locker drain is well above water line but is probably the most difficult and problematic area to even visually inspect never mind service!
Both the stern and bow drains are definitely “WHAT THE #$@&%* HECK WERE THEY THINKING?!?!?!?!”
Regarding the electrical:
We basically stripped out the factory DC wiring and electrical hardware and properly redid ours entirely.
No more crap wire or hardware or loosely-goosey nonsense.
Marine grade wire and hardware. Crimped connections. No solder or wire nuts. No exposed wire. Conduit where required. Circuit breakers throughout. Lighted indicator switches. Proper bus bars. Readily accessible/observable Marine grade battery isolation/selectors. Marine grade Start/Store lead acid batteries with circuit breaker over current protection. Engine power cables run in water-tite conduit.
All wiring interfaces are accessible and inspectable. All wiring, breakers and switches are labeled.
We modified our interior layout and added new sealed custom 6” memory foam cushions in vivid sunbrella fabric covers.
For the exterior cockpit cushions we changed to four new adjustable backed seats from West Marine which have been great!
A definite comfort and appearance upgrade on both counts.
Note: We still have our original in good condition factory interior & exterior cushions that we cleaned & sanitized stored away in sealed bags.
The addition of our current three primary bilge pumps (Port/Starboard/Center) amidship with indicators/annunciation for potential hazard mitigation provide some piece of mind. The related vacuum-out lines provide a means to ensure an easy way to inspect/dry the bilge areas.
Two more bilge pumps are scheduled on the To-Do-List for the stern corners.
An auxiliary dedicated mini bilge and pump for the A/C takes care of an collected condensation when the air conditioning/dehumidifier is running. All the bilge pump drains have individual above waterline marine grade thru hulls, anti siphon loops and accessible isolation valves. The marine grade tubing ends are clamped with 300 series Stainless band clamps. (As the thru hulls are well above waterline there are only single clamps… which are periodically inspected.)
The fuel system is a dual 12 gallon tank (24 gallon total) with easy access/inspection tank selection, priming and filtration (with water separator).
The documentation logbook is a great idea to replace the big ziplock bag or miscellaneous papers we’ve been collecting.
The appearance factor has been basically keeping it clean but somewhere in the future the To-Do-List has paint and brightwork on it.
(Especially after seeing the fantastic job Herschel has done!)
There is always room for improvements and additions.
(Nothing is ever really done when it comes to a boat
)
Best Regards,
Over Easy

Nice video! Good tips and suggestions!
Thanks for posting this!
It validates some of what we are already doing or have done.
Regarding the drains:
I found our Mac26X has three potentially below waterline through hull locations.
One port side by the galley ‘sink’ drain
One starboard side by the head ‘sink’ drain
One at the stern for the engine ‘bowl’ drain
We addressed each of the Port and Starboard by adding new marine grade hose to replace the original vinyl and anti siphon loops.
The stern has proven to be a bit more problematic due to the substantial lack of access to this area.
We have mitigated that by regular periodic visual inspections of the tubing and clamps.
It is really a problematic service area.
I don’t really see how one could even add in an effective anti siphon loop …..
If anyone has successfully addressed changing out the stern drain line I’d love to hear/see how!
The bow anchor line locker drain is well above water line but is probably the most difficult and problematic area to even visually inspect never mind service!
Both the stern and bow drains are definitely “WHAT THE #$@&%* HECK WERE THEY THINKING?!?!?!?!”
Regarding the electrical:
We basically stripped out the factory DC wiring and electrical hardware and properly redid ours entirely.
No more crap wire or hardware or loosely-goosey nonsense.
Marine grade wire and hardware. Crimped connections. No solder or wire nuts. No exposed wire. Conduit where required. Circuit breakers throughout. Lighted indicator switches. Proper bus bars. Readily accessible/observable Marine grade battery isolation/selectors. Marine grade Start/Store lead acid batteries with circuit breaker over current protection. Engine power cables run in water-tite conduit.
All wiring interfaces are accessible and inspectable. All wiring, breakers and switches are labeled.
We modified our interior layout and added new sealed custom 6” memory foam cushions in vivid sunbrella fabric covers.
For the exterior cockpit cushions we changed to four new adjustable backed seats from West Marine which have been great!
A definite comfort and appearance upgrade on both counts.
Note: We still have our original in good condition factory interior & exterior cushions that we cleaned & sanitized stored away in sealed bags.
The addition of our current three primary bilge pumps (Port/Starboard/Center) amidship with indicators/annunciation for potential hazard mitigation provide some piece of mind. The related vacuum-out lines provide a means to ensure an easy way to inspect/dry the bilge areas.
Two more bilge pumps are scheduled on the To-Do-List for the stern corners.
An auxiliary dedicated mini bilge and pump for the A/C takes care of an collected condensation when the air conditioning/dehumidifier is running. All the bilge pump drains have individual above waterline marine grade thru hulls, anti siphon loops and accessible isolation valves. The marine grade tubing ends are clamped with 300 series Stainless band clamps. (As the thru hulls are well above waterline there are only single clamps… which are periodically inspected.)
The fuel system is a dual 12 gallon tank (24 gallon total) with easy access/inspection tank selection, priming and filtration (with water separator).
The documentation logbook is a great idea to replace the big ziplock bag or miscellaneous papers we’ve been collecting.
The appearance factor has been basically keeping it clean but somewhere in the future the To-Do-List has paint and brightwork on it.
(Especially after seeing the fantastic job Herschel has done!)
There is always room for improvements and additions.
(Nothing is ever really done when it comes to a boat
Best Regards,
Over Easy
- dlandersson
- Admiral
- Posts: 4949
- Joined: Fri Aug 27, 2010 10:00 am
- Sailboat: MacGregor 26X
- Location: Michigan City
