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Neo wrote:

kadet wrote:As you are in OZ Neo use 8mm double braid polyester for your heavier lines and 6mm for the lighter ones.

The CDI manual is driving me nuts!!
My Halyard is knotted off at the top ... so it only runs up one side of the luff .... I don't think that right??

The halyard is only a little longer than the luff, so when you lower the head sail, you have to bend on a messenger line so you don't lose the tail. You use the messenger line to hoist the sail, at least until the halyard is low enough to grab and pull directly. Make sure you pull the halyard in line with the slot it rides in, or you'll be fighting a harder battle than you need to.

Once the sail is almost all the way up, and you've shackled the tack to the furler drum, you need to snug it down to get the wrinkles out of the luff. Use something like a truckers' hitch. Then tie it off.

Does this look right?

One side...


Other side with Halyard inside....

More or less, yes. Though I would have expected a longer tail, for tying to that tiny shackle on the drum. Unless the other end is pulled all the way out. I have a loop, which also acts as a stopper knot, some distance before the bitter end. That way I can pass the loose tail through the shackle on the drum, up and through the loop, and back to the shackle before tying it off. Like a truckers' hitch.

You tie a messenger line to that 'tail' to raise the sail (with the mast up - much easier than with it down) before the mast goes up. Don't forget.

Thanks Tom but to be honest I need photos to make this clear for my simple brain

Photos of both ends of the Furler secured to the Genny and also where the ropes ( Haylard and sheets?) run from the CDI and Genny, even back to the helm.... Just wondering if anyone can post these up for me or post up a link to thier photo library?

All the best.
Neo

Neo, inside that black cap is just a rounded slot, nothing fancy. You can push the line thru one side and it will (should) come out the other side (albeit facing down the luff slot). The black piece slides right off the top of the plastic furler luff when everything is disconnected. What you see is all there is to it...no hidden mysteries. (Hope you aren't disappointed.)

Edit: think of the black part as the block that otherwise came with the boat for the halyard. It just turns the rope at the top. When you pull the rope down one side, the sail goes up the other side. It really is that simple. It is just captured in the slot, and tied off at the bottom, because you don't raise and lower it every time, you roll it up. It stays up all the time, so you don't have to have a rope that is easy to pull up, just that thin line to hold it in place on the plastic luff.

On the original little rope (yours is the yellow rope now), where your knot is has about 18 inches longer of a "tail" sticking out so you have something to grab.
When you grab the tail and pull it all the way down (which pulls the sail up the other side), you tie it to the little silver ring on the top of the big black drum. That holds the sail up.

Thanks Guys,

Black cap, Luff and Halyard.... I get it now!!! ... So thanks for you patience

Just need to understand how I run the Genny and CDI drum ropes over the deck back to the helm?

Also, I'm looking to buy some 5mm Dyneema for the Luff line/Halyard ... Considering it travels in the slot and over the rubber block I think it will be better all round.

All the best.
Neo

Neo ...the first block on the small fuller line is critical. The line has to go into the furler cup at a 90 degree angle and feed into the middle of the spool. If this isn't set up right, the furler line starts wrapping outside the cup, which is bad.

Catigale wrote:Neo ...the first block on the small fuller line is critical. The line has to go into the furler cup at a 90 degree angle and feed into the middle of the spool. If this isn't set up right, the furler line starts wrapping outside the cup, which is bad.

A sketch, to explain it further.



Moving the fairlead block or bullseye closer or farther, and/or higher or lower, will move the point where the line intersects the drum at 90 degrees to somewhere that's not at the mid-point of the drum. An excessive fleet angle (deviation from 90 degrees when the line gets to either flange) can cause problems with spooling. Too little fleet angle can also cause problems, as the line wants to stay at one flange or the other, and not start winding back.

Hopefully, your furler line was already set up correctly.

Thanks Tom ... I guess that's what this block is for .... Looks like someones been using 4mm rope as it's starting to cut through too.... What do you call this?... so I can find a replacement.


All this leads me to another question .... Whats this 2nd pulley, at the top of the mast, for? ... I used to think it was for the Genny but that can't be.... Its been driving me nuts too, going donk, donk, donk with the wind all the time!!!


All the best.
Neo

Neo wrote:Thanks Tom ... I guess that's what this block is for .... Looks like someones been using 4mm rope as it's starting to cut through too.... What do you call this?... so I can find a replacement.

That's a nylon bull's eye fairlead. For turning a small line under load like it does, a stainless insert bull's eye fairlead would be better, and only something like a dollar more. Or a sheave, but on small boats like these, I think a bull's eye is fine.

Neo wrote:All this leads me to another question .... Whats this 2nd pulley, at the top of the mast, for? ... I used to think it was for the Genny but that can't be.... Its been driving me nuts too, going donk, donk, donk with the wind all the time!!!

Just a guess, since I don't know what the rest of your setup looks like, but that looks like the jib halyard block, retasked for topping lift service. Maybe for spinnaker halyard duty, but it's all the way at the top of the mast, which is pretty far above the highest stays. The one on the other side looks like a cheek block, which would be for the main halyard.

Once a halyard is on that block, that black tape will nicely stop the noise, too.

Catigale wrote:Once a halyard is on that block, that black tape will nicely stop the noise, too.

Yes but I don't have a Jib so I've take that block off now ... It so much quieter now

Also, I discovered this recipe for disaster yesterday ... Clearly the person that wired this didn't use stainless steel wire.....


When was the last time you checked your CDI???

All the best.
Neo

Great photo and congrats on the pre-disaster catch! I imagine that's what my turnbuckle looked like just before the whole rig came crashing down. No injuries and surprisingly inexpensive to fix the damage but I'll never ignore routine turnbuckle inspections again. Honestly, before it failed I didn't ever realize there was a turnbuckle under the drum.

jstyers wrote: I didn't ever realize there was a turnbuckle under the drum.

That makes two of us

Neo wrote:Thanks Tom ... I guess that's what this block is for .... Looks like someones been using 4mm rope as it's starting to cut through too.... What do you call this?... so I can find a replacement.



Neo

When I got my new the factory mounted a roller, but the roll lets the line out too hight.
To test I put the line under the port clamp.

...4 Years later... still the same setting ... some day I will fix it more prefessional... But maybe you want to test like this...