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When I raise the main and near the top 2 feet or so, I need to put a loop in the halyard then around the mast cleat and back through the loop to get 2:1 purchase. What is the best knot to use for the loop as what I have been doing, once loaded, is very difficult to get out. This Is really a concern to me in the case that I might have to lower main in a hurry - I wouldn't be able to as I have difficulty getting the loop out once it has been subjected to high load. I am wondering if there is a specific knot that I should be using that can be loosened even after high load on it. Any suggestions? I have a great app for knots, but not sure what I should use that can be removed even after loaded.

What know are you using? I don't use that system myself for that reason. Eventually ill figure something out that's easier. A block that grabs the line somehow
Ix

The bowline knot is the only knot strong enough to stand up to that, and it's probably the knot you're using now. It would be a bit difficult to get out.

I've been considering bolting a shackle to an inexpensive lewmar rope clutch that would be left free. I'd run the halyard through the clutch, and when I need purchase, I'll shackle the clutch to the boom vang, using the vang for it's 4:1 purchase. When I've got the main hardened up and cleated off, I'll unshackle the vang and shackle it back onto the boom, leaving the rope clutch hanging on the halyard.

Just a thought. Not sure it's faster than tying and untying a bowline thought.

Matt

Some variations here https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trucker's_hitch

and this http://www.animatedknots.com/truckers/

Truckers hitch (as above) is the one to use, no matter how much load is put on it won't slip, but when released just falls apart.

Its worth emphasising that when you tie the loop needed for a truckers hitch, a figure of eight knot is critical.
If a simple overhand not is used when creating the loop it will lock up under load and the loop will be very difficult to remove. A figure of eight knot is always easily undone.
The video above shows how to create the figure of eight knot.

I figured the truckies hitch was the way to go. I looked at video on YouTube earlier this week. Thanks for advice.

Oskar 26M wrote:Its worth emphasising that when you tie the loop needed for a truckers hitch, a figure of eight knot is critical.
If a simple overhand not is used when creating the loop it will lock up under load and the loop will be very difficult to remove. A figure of eight knot is always easily undone.
The video above shows how to create the figure of eight knot.

One question ....
Once figure 8 is tied and I go down and around bottom of mast cleat and back up through loop to pull tight, should I cleat off or tie the second part which looks to be a double hitch? Seems simpler to just cleat off as normal. It is the loop that I need to loosen easily and the figure 8 shown seems to be the answer-correct?

when need to put a knot in a rope away from the ends, I use a bowline on a bight http://www.animatedknots.com/bowlinebight/

Very strong and meant to be untied.

I just sweat line. Something I learned from my days when I worked on 78 ft sail charter boat. This link shows how it works.

http://m.youtube.com/#/watch?v=6peFy_08 ... peFy_08Wso

If you sweat the line, then you don't have to worry about untying a knot if you have to ditch the main in a hurry.

I just tensioned the jib halyard on a larger boat this week, so the following action is fresh in my mind.

For the last little bit of uphaul, or to simply get a good (non-distorting) final tension on the halyard, I just looped it to within a foot or so of the deck, then back up to a mast cleat and did one quick wrap. I then just stepped on the bottom of the loop with my foot and body weight.

This might be hard on the shoes, but it's fast, it gives a mechanical advantage (rock your foot if the line doesn't slide under your instep if you need to), and uses your body weight without a lot of effort or tying knots. And your shoe will put less wear and tear on the line than a loop knot will. You might have to maintain some tension on the halyard to prevent the sail from falling back down while you do this. (It's all 'cause I'm lazy).

-Brian.

And you guys sailing where the temperatures are now allowing barefoot sailing... I don't want to hear 'bout it!

We mounted a clam cleat approx 18" above the stock horn cleat on the mast. With the main up all the way, take a loop around the horn cleat. Sweat the halyard, take up the slack and make it fast in the clam cleat. The tail is facing upwards with the bitter end run back to the cockpit for quick release in emergencies. This arrangement does not impede the mast swivel as well.



Marc

EZ wrote:If you sweat the line, then you don't have to worry about untying a knot if you have to ditch the main in a hurry.

It might be easier to tension with a cunningham after sweating the halyard a little.

Where is all the pressure coming from?

I can raise my main all the way up nil issues.

As long as the vang, main sheets, etc are all loose before I hoist it, never a prob.

Once up, I adjust the clew, tack, vang and sheets.

G

And you guys sailing where the temperatures are now allowing barefoot sailing... I don't want to hear 'bout it!

But Brian....... that's the only time I sail (desert rat..... hate the cold) I can't remember the last time I actually wore shoes on the boat. (okay, enough rubbing it it yet ). The down side is sometimes accidentally landing on protruding hardware with bare feet. (blood blister the size of a golf ball on my heel once, wrecked half my week... okay TMI)

JMHO;
Sweating the line works fine for light days, but when the wind gets up the luff might end up sagging between the slugs. I've use a modified trucker's hitch (pulls out easier, but can slip out by itself). But now I have installed a sliding goose neck and a 3:1 purchase setup to pull the boom down and take the sag out of the luff in high winds. (works just like a Cunningham, but pulls down on the boom itself. It really helps to flatten out the sail, when needed. It's easy to work from the companionway too.

Low stretch line for halyards really helps too. The factory halyards are good, but do stretch quite a bit, when loaded heavily.

Best Breezes,
Steve K.
Mac 26D "Three Sheets"