Slop in the steering

[Interim]

I have a bit of play in the rudder on my 94 26S, sort of like on an old car with rack-and-pinion steering. I know that it is in the rudder/rudderpost connection (not at the tiller connection), and reading another thread about the bolt hole getting bigger and bigger has me worried. But the slop also makes single handing harder because it won't hold a course if I have the tiller tied.

My rudder is only held on by a pivot bolt, although there are two other bolt holes nearby. The one bolt in use seems to be as tight as it can get without putting too much friction on the pivot motion.

So, is this slop in the steering normal? Dangerous? Are there tried and true solutions?

--john

[grady]

Had the same issue. I would go with Rudder craft!!

http://www.ruddercraft.com/catalog/prod ... cts_id=318

I acually used the D model kit. (Got it used for $200 with a jacked up rudder) and glassed in the back of the boat.

Prior that I build an aluminum bushing to put inside the rudder torque tube to eliminate the slop. Worked great for many years.

[paulkayak]

Hi john I have a 26S and I have the same problem and I am working on a solution. I just picked up a 3/4 inch stainless steel bolt that has 2 inch of thread. I plan to drill a hole through the 3/4 bolt so the stock bolt fits with minimal play and grind the nut and bolt head to about 1/8 to 3/16 and put it through the bolt hole in the rudder. I will make two large washers out of stainless steel plates I have found, and bolt them tight to the side of the rudder so the forces will be spread over a much larger surface of the rudder. I will then grind the bolt down to the length needed. I than plan on mounting the rudder with the stock bolt that holds the rudder now. With this the play and the wear should be eliminated. I still have to figure out how to make this fit in the harness at the lower end of the rudder pivot.
My brother (an engineer) said it should work fine but what are you making it for a 60 foot ocean going cruiser?
I did basically the same on the tiller handle I made for the small 16 foot sailboat I sail on the small lake I live on and it works great.

[Interim]

That does sound like a good idea (engineers don't appreciate over-building as much as sailors do).

Thanks. I get the concept and might devise something similar.

--john

[paulkayak]

Drilling stainless can be a bit chalanging. I would suggest a drill press or a lathe. Or you will be sharpening your bit a lot. They seem to recommend a bit angle of 118 degrees. Good luck and have fun.

[grady]

Hi john I have a 26S and I have the same problem and I am working on a solution. I just picked up a 3/4 inch stainless steel bolt that has 2 inch of thread. I plan to drill a hole through the 3/4 bolt so the stock bolt fits with minimal play and grind the nut and bolt head to about 1/8 to 3/16 and put it through the bolt hole in the rudder. I will make two large washers out of stainless steel plates I have found, and bolt them tight to the side of the rudder so the forces will be spread over a much larger surface of the rudder. I will then grind the bolt down to the length needed. I than plan on mounting the rudder with the stock bolt that holds the rudder now. With this the play and the wear should be eliminated. I still have to figure out how to make this fit in the harness at the lower end of the rudder pivot.
My brother (an engineer) said it should work fine but what are you making it for a 60 foot ocean going cruiser?
I did basically the same on the tiller handle I made for the small 16 foot sailboat I sail on the small lake I live on and it works great.

Aluminum will work just as good and take less than half the time to manufacture. Probably be able to get your clearances tighter also. If you make the bushing fit tight (Freze the bushing and heat the stainles torque tube when you install) it will not move or wear out. The only movement will be the bolt to bushing.

[Interim]

How important is the larger bolt/bushing? Could I just add over-sized washers inside the rudder post harness? It seems the compression would put the pressure on the outside surface of the rudder and the bushing inside would not be needed.

Or, is there enough movement on the inside that I would eventually wear a hole that is too large?

--john