MacGregorSailors.com

Does anyone have e method of lifting a 26X off of the trailer to facilitate cleaning and painting. Is there anything mounted on the hull that you can use as a lift ring? [email protected]

I've heard of dealers lifting macs from overhead using the chainplates, but I would think a much safe route is the standard straps. Here's a picture of mine on a strap launch, but not everyone has a lift like this in the back yard. I could see rigging a similar short lift method overhead in a garage.



Short of that there is always the one end at a time method that many have used to paint their bottoms. It goes like this.

Lower the tounge jack as low as possible. Block under the transom securely. Crank the tounge jack full up. You will now find the boat is lifted off the two rear bunks enough to use a small roller for painting.

That just leaves the bow vee block area. You can do a similar reverse process for that. Once you have the rear blocks out, raise the tounge jack full up, block under the bow just aft of the vee block, lower the jack to lift the boat away from the vee block allowing you to paint the surface there.

THANKS

George

Impressive picture up there!

When cleaning, and or painting, my method involves using a pair or automotive ramps (available from just about anywhere). I run the trailer up the ramps, braking at the right moment (that's important!).

Remove the tow vehicle and using the trailer jack, I first lower the jack to work on the aft end, then raise it to do the front. Then, I re-attach the truck, pull the boat down to the ramp, float the boat sufficient to push it back on the trailer about 10 inches. Now I get to work on those areas previously covered by the trailer bunks. If I've been painting, I may allow 24 hours for the paint to dry before shunting the boat back.

method that many have used to paint their bottoms. It goes like this.

Lower the tounge jack as low as possible. Block under the transom securely. Crank the tounge jack full up. You will now find the boat is lifted off the two rear bunks enough to use a small roller for painting.

That just leaves the bow vee block area. You can do a similar reverse process for that. Once you have the rear blocks out, raise the tounge jack full up, block under the bow just aft of the vee block, lower the jack to lift the boat away from the vee block allowing you to paint the surface there.[/quote]

I first jacked up the axles, put padded cinder blocks under the transom. Then jacked up the tongue. I still need more space around the fenders. Did you remove the fenders when you painted, or just worked around them?

Duane, please check your attached photo,we can't see it

put padded cinder blocks under the transom.

I would never trust cinder blocks to hold any load.

They have a tendency to explode under pressure.

Instead, I would use 6x6 or 8x8 posts with supports.

JMHO

G

We've had the discussion about putting a Mac on cement blocks before and folks say not to. But, when I go to dealers I see lots of new boats, much heavier than Macs on blocks. I would think if there were any actual danger their insurance would not let them do that.

I talked to the local block dealer and he said they would take 5000 lb. I would think three tiers of blocks could, and has, safely held my 2000 lb Mac. They would be more than four times stronger than the weight rating of the trailer.

But, that's why they make Fords and Chevolets.

Most yards I go to rest the keels on timbers, not blocks

There are lots of horror stories about cars,boats, and planes falling from cinder block failure. When they are brand new they might be safe, after sitting in your yard for a few years they decompose and crumble.

Its a free country, but you wont catch me using them for supporting anything Im crawling under.

Catigale wrote:Most yards I go to rest the keels on timbers, not blocks

Definately. I used a homemade welded iron stand, formed to fit the aft area of the boat bottom, positioned near the engine. This iron stand rested securely on 2 rail road ties. I removed the trailer by hanging the front portion of my Mac X on a homemade pipe "A" frame, and used heavy duty nylon straps.

The trailer was pulled from beneath the boat using fsmith's post ideas. It worked well.

Working beneath a Mac improperly secured is a pending disaster, IMO.

Cat(Stephen): removing that centerboard using a 14 mm deep socket, and 9/16th wrench did the trick I was amazed how easily the board slid back into place when the bottom paint was completed.

For those who don't know . . .
Big Difference between cinder blocks and cement blocks!!!!!!! HUGE!!!
I might trust cement blocks piered properly. NOT on their sides . . but with their Holes being top and bottom. Drop a cinder block from waist height and it will shatter . Drop a cement block from waist height and you better be able to move out of its way real fast, unless your on a soft surface. BTW if you can grab an 8x16 with one hand and walk away with it any distance. . . .its what we call a cinder block.
I use a 6 ton hydraulic floor jack and truck stands with wooden base plates and 4x4's