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M26 Fuel Tank securing
Posted: Wed Dec 12, 2007 1:15 am
by Bob Johnson
Having recenty a very nasty acident where I literally got stuck on the 45 liter fuel tank barb, I have now brought securing the fuel tanks up to number one mod.
I don't think self tapping screws and straps will hold 45 kilos of fuel in place when leaning.
Could anybody please advise a method to hold in place both fuel tanks.
Regards Bob Johnson

Posted: Wed Dec 12, 2007 7:44 am
by Terry
This is going to sound a bit mickey mouse but it has worked for me for 5 seasons. Keeping in mind I still use the smaller 25 liter tanks. First I put a strip of non-skid matting down on the floor to make it harder for the tanks to slide around, you could also use plastic velcro strips. Then I bought a couple of shower curtain rods and tightened them securely in place and butted right up against the tanks so that the tanks would not have room to slide around. I have not had the tanks fall out yet, not even at 40 degrees heel. I did get someone criticise my setup and grab one end of the shower rod and pull on it to show me how easily it would come out, but gas tanks do not have hands to yank on the rod with. You must place the shower rod so that the center of the rod takes the weight of the tank thereby dispersing the force along the full length. I used this method to avoid drilling any holes into that area for fear gas would find its' way below. It may sound a bit gunny sack, but hey, it works!

Posted: Wed Dec 12, 2007 8:34 am
by Pete
I like it!
Posted: Wed Dec 12, 2007 10:39 am
by Hardcrab
For what it's worth, if anything at all, I do think that self tapping, stainless steel screws and straps are fully up to the job. Any loads seen while heeling will be very minor untill you approach 90* of heel .
Look at what Terry has experienced with just his spring loaded shower rod method. Certainly, screws must be more robust than that.
As far as leaks are concerned, a dab of 5200 on the screw threads can eliminate all concern.
Good luck.
Posted: Wed Dec 12, 2007 11:04 am
by Paul S
Hardcrab wrote:For what it's worth, if anything at all, I do think that self tapping, stainless steel screws and straps are fully up to the job. Any loads seen while heeling will be very minor untill you approach 90* of heel .
Look at what Terry has experienced with just his spring loaded shower rod method. Certainly, screws must be more robust than that.
As far as leaks are concerned, a dab of 5200 on the screw threads can eliminate all concern.
Good luck.
I used 'block hangers', self tapping screws bedded in 5200 and it has survived everything
http://home.comcast.net/~26m/mods/mod1/photo011.jpg
Paul
Posted: Wed Dec 12, 2007 10:01 pm
by Bob Johnson
Thanks guys for your input. What size self tappers and how many screws are you using to spread the load. I don't think there is enough space arround the 45 liter tank to put in a shower rail, but will measure up.
Many thanks. Bob Johnson.

Posted: Thu Dec 13, 2007 7:25 pm
by Matt19020
Bob, I did something a little different.
I did not want to drill any holes in the deck because I read an article once about fuel running into a cabin through a screw hole and did not want to take the chance.
I epoxyed two PVC 2X4's (I happened to have some stock laying around, but I am sure wood will work also) to the underseat area in which the fuel tank seats. They fit into a groove in the tank. It is a little difficult to explain.
If you wait until the weekend I may be able to snap a picture...... but it has worked perfect so far and it is not noticible from the deck area.
I have the Tempo 12 gal tanks.
Posted: Fri Dec 14, 2007 4:42 pm
by dennisneal
I have two, 12 gallon gasoline tanks. The dealer, Inmon Yachts in Marina Del Rey, screwed two small, rather flat, stainless steel eye straps into the cockpit deck behind each tank and secured each tank with two pieces of nylon webbing with a buckle on each strap so that a tank can be removed, if necessary. This arrangement seems to be more than secure.
Posted: Fri Dec 14, 2007 7:38 pm
by Divecoz
Matt19020 wrote:Bob, I did something a little different.
I did not want to drill any holes in the deck because I read an article once about fuel running into a cabin through a screw hole and did not want to take the chance.
I epoxyed two PVC 2X4's (I happened to have some stock laying around, but I am sure wood will work also) to the underseat area in which the fuel tank seats. They fit into a groove in the tank. It is a little difficult to explain.
If you wait until the weekend I may be able to snap a picture...... but it has worked perfect so far and it is not noticible from the deck area.
I have the Tempo 12 gal tanks.
I guess I need to go look at mine as I too have a 12 gal. Tempo. There must be an indentation running the length or the width of the bottom of the tank.
I have been using straps and buckels on my 1 12 and 2 6's. I like the idea of your board or a piece of Aluminum angle stock running the width of the front opening.
Posted: Sat Dec 15, 2007 4:43 am
by NiceAft
I guess I'm dyslexic, or it's too early in the morning here, but I would sure like to see some photos of all of your solutions. It's going to be too cold and icy this weekend for me to crawl into Nice Aft and take picts of my dealers solution for two 12 gallon [two 54.6 liters] tanks.
Matt, I hope you get this done before the sleet comes. Brrrrrrrrrrrr
Ray
Posted: Sat Dec 15, 2007 8:02 am
by Highlander
Posted: Sat Dec 15, 2007 11:14 am
by Matt19020
OK, I was able to snap some pictures of what I did for securing the fuel tanks. The longer 2X4 is really just a spacer so the tank does not slide forward. I used PC7 epoxy to secure and caulked the edges just to make it more appealing. I also drilled a hole into the the blocks so I could run a line over the top of the tanks in case I needed more securing. This setup still allows for removal of a tank if needed. and a clean look when finished.
After I figured out what I wanted to do it really only took about 30 min. and less then $15 for epoxy and caulk.
I have had the boat over about 35 degrees with full tanks and there was no movement. I need to have Ray take me out one time to really lay it over.

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Posted: Sat Dec 15, 2007 11:45 am
by Divecoz
Nice Job ! NOW I have to run out the the garage (I emptied mine for use in the snow thrower and Tractor

) and see If I can do the same...
YES I DO SO YES I CAN! I never noticed those indentations You are one clever and observant fellow!!
Gas Tanks
Posted: Sat Dec 15, 2007 1:07 pm
by pokerrick1
On a similiar subject, let me try to explain a mistake I made regarding the standard Tempo 12 gallon tanks, while I was trying to save a few dollars (usually a mistake on my part and this was too)

Even though I hardly use any gasoline at all (slap myself here) I decided I wasn't going to pay $4 a gallon at the fuel dock and was going to save 75 cents a gallon and was going to cart my gas to the dock in one of them there newfangled plastic gas cans. By newfangled I mean; (and this is hard for me to explain) you can turn the plastic gas can upsidedown with the top off and gas won't spill out. Gas flow is started when the neck of the can is inserted into the neck of the receiving tank, and then the valve on the can opens and gas flows.
Well guess what, sports fans

The WEIGHT of the FULL gas can on top of the neck of the tank BENT the gooseneck some on the tank(s). Then, when the Mac went into a more severe heel (like 30 degrees), gasoline was leaking out of the neck of one tank. It wasn't a severe leak, and the gas quickly dissapated, but I sure didn't like it much
So, as a result, I had to replace both tanks (how much did I save?), and I now go to the fuel dock again to get my 6 gallons of gas twice a year (big deal). Oh well, live and learn - - - but I thought I would warn some of you who might not be aware of this possibility and you might learn from my stupidity.
PS But I know where to get new 12 gallon Tempo tanks
Rick

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Posted: Sun Dec 16, 2007 11:12 pm
by Bob Johnson
Hi Matt, many thanks for your trouble to get these photogrophs for me. This mod looks like the way to go for me. May even attach a strap to go over the top of the tank to prevent the tanks from bouncing around.
Whats best is no screw holes.
Thanks everybody for your input and those that have not done this mod (or simalar), strongly recomend that you do.
Bob Johnson
