I use Monel as well.

After getting some small but anoying leaks I decided to re-seal the deck joint on my X - took just over a day but worth it - no more leaks (I think). So far a few heavy rain days and completely dry. I did the following:- Pulled the rubrail off one side at a time and left it on the bow so I wouldn't ...

On my X when hunting leaks I thought the seams of the lockers looked rough (at the bottom of the opening behind the lip) - I used a mirror to get a good look. I cleaned it out and resealed with lots of 4200. I also elongated the drain holes as they weren't all the way to the bottom and so water was ...

I use Monel rivets as they don't cause corrosion. A bit more expensive but I've ony needed a hadfull.

I do almost the same as Seapup. I use a trolly jack under the rear of the trailer to lift up the back, then put the jack stands with a length of fence post between them under the rear of the boat. Lower the trolly jack and the boat sits on the fence post - the weight keeps everything in place. Then ...

When I first got the boat it had unidentifiable antifoul flaking off it. I scraped/sanded it down as best as I could and then applied two cots of antifouling primer (International 750ml PRIMOCON Antifouling Primer). Then I applied two coats of International Cruiser Uno Antifouling - it took a 3 litr...

Thanks all. It'll be March when I get it from the boat yard and put it on my drive for its pre-season sort-out. Pics will follow then. Interesting thread Dimitri - hopefully I just find a little cleaning is all that's needed! Hey Brian - No racing I'm afraid - it's part of me embracing my mid-life c...

Sounds like good advice. I'll stop overthinking it and just get on with the job.

To prove your point - last weekend I broke a crankcase bolt on a Z1000 engine I'm rebuilding. I was merrily pulling away on my torque wrench not "feeling" that the bolt was at breaking point - and it broke!

I have a Tohatsu M50D that is kept on a salty swinging mooring in the summer and only flushed once at end of season. When I first got the boat the engine kept cutting out and it turned out to be the thermostat and housing were salted up - a good clean and it's been fine ever since (I check once a ye...

My 26X (also MD50) spends 7 months of the year on a swinging mooring in the salty water of Scotland with no access to fresh water. It's been like that for 4 years now and only gets flushed when I haul it out for the winter. So far no problems. When I first got it the thermostat was all salted up and...

PS - Declan - I was at the Hotel Arts a couple of weeks ago and was admiring a 26x in the marina by there - was that you by any chance?

In my 2000x I also had the cracks in the floor when I got it - and leaks. The floor is supported on what looks like several foam "rods" wrapped in fibreglass going from side to side. My guess is that the constant water under the floor made the supports flex too much, and the floor cracked ...

I had the same problem. I ended up taking out all the plastic covers, putting the hose on it and seeing which bolt was dripping. It turned out to be the block the centreboard line goes around.

Interesting thought that it might be a European wiring requirement. I’m just day sailing at the moment so electrics aren’t really an issue. But as I improve I plan on going over to the west coast of Scotland (only 50 miles away) for cruising breaks. At that point I’ll need a house battery, laptop/iP...

Thanks all.

It looks like next winter's project is going to be sorting out the battery and electrics.

I've also felt that the battery is just in the wrong place - and I want to install LEDs etc.

Cheers,

Bruce