Slowly making forward progress lol

[Be Free]

I'd be surprised if the parts would cost $100 to fix what you've described.

[OverEasy]

Hi wilburrr!

I can’t tell ya what you should or shouldn’t do…. That’s your call.

What I can suggest is if the motor can be pulled over, has compression, shifts in/out of gear and the prop turns then youre 85% of the way there to a running engine…. then with a bit of TLC you’ll get past that last 15%.

Parts are just parts and generally not all that expensive …. The up side is you’ll actually get to know and understand your engine better this way. The knowledge and skills gained can have not only a great sense of accomplishment but can pay back dividends in unexpected ways that only the future can tell you.

It just might be worth giving it a try… but that’s your call. You best know what’s right for you.

Best Regards,
Over Easy

[Willburrrr2003]

Be Free, and Over Easy...

You guys are 100% correct. I had a rough day yesterday and let my frustration get the best of me. I am more than capable of fixing both issues. so I went out last night with a better frame of mind, took cover off took pics and examined the issues. Put cover back on put in neutral, pulled the cord and compression sounds and feels good and not froze up. With the cloud of cord rot from the 2 pulls I am getting another pull cord. The actual one for my motor is in stock at local West Marine for $5.99.

REPLACEMENT PULL ROPE.jpg

Here is the electrical issue, after cleaning stuff of the other wires I found it's just the wire from the stator that has corroded and broken. I found the wire at the coil side has a crimped on ring connector on a screw stud. Plan is to remove the coil side piece, and strip the ither section of wire back until no corrosion found, then splice on a section of 10awg white wire from the kit I made out of spare parts on my lunch break today, I will then pick from my assortment of ring connectors to find the right size for the coil stud and crimp it on. I have heat shrink that I will put over the new wire and the splice as well. That should fix the electrical issue, and shouldn't have to remove the flywheel to do it.

20260328_135559.jpg

For my electrical kit, I stripped insulation off 3 wire 10AWG S/O cord. then separated the wires giving me 18" green, white, and black wire to work with. I have 2 sizes of heat shrink, butt spices and crimp on ring terminals as well.

10awg s-o cord stripped of insulation.jpg

[Willburrrr2003]

would only let me post 3 pics for some reason, here are more and continuing my post lol...

kit comonents.jpg

and the frozen tiller handle doesn't seem to be on engine side as the gears there don't budge at all when I try and turn handle. So exploded parts diagram found for assembly reference

Tiller handle exploded view.jpg

looks like 2 bolts to pull handle assembly off, and will see what I find when I start disassembling it on the bench. I am thinking part #4 is the piece that is froze up...

Oh and parts cost so far...$0

I am Optimistic Guys! Thanks for the pep talk!!

Regards,

Will

[OverEasy]

An over night soak in “3in1” oil soak does a good job of loosening things up

[Be Free]

Soak liberally in your preferred penetrating oil. Time is your friend. Don't be in a hurry with corroded parts.