Zero feedback steering?

[Don T]

Hello,
That black plastic cover should come right off. Mine falls out sometimes. If it is stuck, you can bet the PO glued it.

The standard way of removing steering wheels when you don't have the proper puller:
Loosen the nut but leave it on the shaft flush with the end. Take a dead blow hammer or similar and give it a good straight blow while applying upward pressure to the wheel. In some cases you can pull on the wheel while rocking it (not bending or breaking anything of course) and you'll get it to break loose.

Or go to your local auto parts store and get a puller, they don't cost much.

[RickJ]

Look around the edge for a setscrew that holds it in

I'd already found the setscrew and removed it, but it didn't seem to be holding anything. Sounds like the PO used the glue method.

So I guess I have to hack the plastic hub cover until it comes out. The wheel won't look very nice after, so maybe I'll get a new one anyway. Expensive for what they are though.
Maybe I'll go for an 18", I think a slightly bigger wheel would be a bit more comfortable, and I don't think the extra inch each side should be too much obstruction in the cockpit.

I quite fancy this one.

Cheers

[R Rae]

I agree fully with the post from Don. In addition, I have found using a heat gun on the cast hub of the wheel, getting it warmer than you want to touch, and then several taps on the end should do it

Good luck,

Ron

[RickJ]

Uflex v. Teleflex

Uflex (Ultraflex) seems hard to get over here, I've only found one outlet that sells the Rotech kits, and they list 4m (13+') as the minimum cable length. I've sent a query to see if they can supply 3m (10'), as I think 4m is overly long.

But I can get the Teleflex Safe-T II NFB with a 3m cable (slightly cheaper than the price of a Rotech 3 too). Teleflex spares are also widely available.

I know there are various comments in other threads on both, but can anyone offer a direct comparison between the two products?

TIA
Rick

[Night Sailor]

My early '98 X (made during Sept. '97) still has the hub style steering, not a rack. It has worked perfectly since day one with little play or feedback. I found it could be fine tuned by shimming the rudders in their brackets to eliminate any looseness, adjust the pivot botls on the steering rod, motor connecton and tierod ends, to take out any play there. Keeping the motor pivot shafts well greased and the cable free of debris has worked for me.

After moving down to the X with it's small wheel from a 30' keel boat with tiller it was an adjustment at first because of the lack of feedback on the hands. I soon learned though that sight lines and seat of the pants feel could compensate for it, so I like the system now.
When off the boat and doing maintenance or climbing the swim ladder I particularly like the ability to move the rudders and or motor at will without even taking off the helm cover. A complete zero feedback system would not have that handy feature, so I doubt I'd go that route if I had a choice.

[RickJ]

Night Sailor - thanks for your thoughts. You have a good point about moving the rudders and motor for access and maintenance, I need to think about that one!

I'm also doing a mod to the motor linkage to make it quick-release, so it can be disconnected while sailing. I don't like the weight of the motor on the steering when not needed, especially when tilted up. This has the added benefit of making it easy to swing the motor around at the transom, so a no-feedback helm would only be blocking movement of the rudders. I wonder if I would find that a problem

I've decided to replace the steering because the cable's obviously got internal corrosion and is getting very stiff. Even after taking it off and holding it straight it's quite some effort to move it, and it makes nasty grinding sounds If it were possible to dismantle the cable it could probably be easily cleaned and re-greased, but it appears they're manufactured in such a way that can't be done.

Cheers

[RickJ]

Update for anyone still following this ...

I got the plastic hub cover out of the wheel by attacking it with a chisel and mallet - destroyed the plastic but at least I could get to the wheel nut

I decided on a Teleflex NFB and ordered one yesterday, so shall be fitting that soon. I shall re-use the wheel, but I've also ordered a Rulan rudder-position indicator, a gadget that fixes onto the wheel hub. It'll help disguise the fact that there's no longer a nice black cover - and might even be useful

As part of this replacement I'm planning to re-locate the rudder end of the cable below the steering link bar. In its standard position it prevents the motor from tilting all the way up. This new location should make things tidier around the stern platform as well.

Has anyone else done this?

Cheers

[CrPlater]

Rulan rudder position indicator...pretty expensive for what it is. Useless IMHO. Mine broke within about a year. Too small to cover that hole probably.