I just got a Honda 9.9 for my Mac 26s. I have one battery, but guess would need another one for the electric starter and power tilt (guy's geting older and lazier). I will greatly appreciate suggestions on how to wire, switch, and charge both batteries. My current battery is a deep cycle one, would I need a different one for starting the engine.
Thanx,
Albert
Honda 9.9 wiring
- Catigale
- Site Admin
- Posts: 10421
- Joined: Fri Jun 11, 2004 5:59 pm
- Sailboat: MacGregor 26X
- Location: Admiral .............Catigale 2002X.......Lots of Harpoon Hobie 16 Skiffs....Island 17
- Contact:
Hello Albert
Your engine doesnt require a separate starter battery (to put it in perspective, neither does my Mercury 50 HP)
It is more a function of how you will use the boat, then the motor size. If you day sail and just use your kicker motor to get off the dock, then stick with one battery and carry a jumper battery (a packaged battery that cant spill and comes complete with cables attached, cost about 50 USD) in case you run your boat battery flat.
Simple and you can first buy it for the Admirals car, and claim the boat buck exemption....

If you are cruising for more than a few days and have a 'house battery need' then you usually wire it to a large swtich (Perko brand for example) which lets you choose which battery you are using and/or charging as you go.
Bumped over to Main Forum ~sps
Your engine doesnt require a separate starter battery (to put it in perspective, neither does my Mercury 50 HP)
It is more a function of how you will use the boat, then the motor size. If you day sail and just use your kicker motor to get off the dock, then stick with one battery and carry a jumper battery (a packaged battery that cant spill and comes complete with cables attached, cost about 50 USD) in case you run your boat battery flat.
Simple and you can first buy it for the Admirals car, and claim the boat buck exemption....
If you are cruising for more than a few days and have a 'house battery need' then you usually wire it to a large swtich (Perko brand for example) which lets you choose which battery you are using and/or charging as you go.
Bumped over to Main Forum ~sps
As said, you don't need a separate starting battery. A Group 24 deep-cycle battery is WAY more than adequate.
You DO need adequate wiring. The starter cables that come with the outboard may be sized to reach the battery in a small fishing boat and be too short to reach your battery location in the sailboat. If that's the case, rather than lengthen them with a splice, you should build new ones of tinned marine grade wire, with a diameter larger (lower gauge number) than those supplied for the short run, to account for the voltage drop of the increased length.
Ancor Marine is the best known seller of marine grade wire. Here is a link to their support area. Click on the 3% voltage link to find the proper gauge for load (amps) and length. Note that Ancor charts use total length, i.e. if you need a 10 foot positive cable and a 10 foot negative cable, use 20 feet when using their chart.
Find someone with or rent or buy the proper crimp tool to install the appropriately sized terminals on the wiring. Do not use solder.
I don't know if your 9.9 HP Honda still has the pull start handle easily accessible on the front of the motor. If it does, and it's no problem to access with your installation, I'd skip the jump-start battery pack.
Just as a comment, I find it interesting Honda puts a larger alternator on the 9.9 HP (12 amps) than they do on the 50 HP (10 amps).
You DO need adequate wiring. The starter cables that come with the outboard may be sized to reach the battery in a small fishing boat and be too short to reach your battery location in the sailboat. If that's the case, rather than lengthen them with a splice, you should build new ones of tinned marine grade wire, with a diameter larger (lower gauge number) than those supplied for the short run, to account for the voltage drop of the increased length.
Ancor Marine is the best known seller of marine grade wire. Here is a link to their support area. Click on the 3% voltage link to find the proper gauge for load (amps) and length. Note that Ancor charts use total length, i.e. if you need a 10 foot positive cable and a 10 foot negative cable, use 20 feet when using their chart.
Find someone with or rent or buy the proper crimp tool to install the appropriately sized terminals on the wiring. Do not use solder.
I don't know if your 9.9 HP Honda still has the pull start handle easily accessible on the front of the motor. If it does, and it's no problem to access with your installation, I'd skip the jump-start battery pack.
Just as a comment, I find it interesting Honda puts a larger alternator on the 9.9 HP (12 amps) than they do on the 50 HP (10 amps).
- Catigale
- Site Admin
- Posts: 10421
- Joined: Fri Jun 11, 2004 5:59 pm
- Sailboat: MacGregor 26X
- Location: Admiral .............Catigale 2002X.......Lots of Harpoon Hobie 16 Skiffs....Island 17
- Contact:
Im guessing the market dictates:Just as a comment, I find it interesting Honda puts a larger alternator on the 9.9 HP (12 amps) than they do on the 50 HP (10 amps).
50 HP - small motor craft, pontoon boat which are daytime use only, no cruising - ergo minimal amperage requirement
9.9HP - probably a sizeable market as sailboat kickers - who do overnight cruise ergo need more amps for recharge
I run a 2 yr old Honda 9.9 electric start on my 26X with stock mac battery. Did same with a 2000 Evinrude 9.9 4 str electric start earlier. Keep battery topped off with a 5 watt solar plate. Minimize electric usage with LED cabin lights, low amps FM AM casstte CD player, little use of vhf and running lights . No second battery. No problem. Ron
