Spreader: reuse 1 that broke at the scored line next 2 mast?

[teddadbear]

When my mast came down over the winter, the spreader snapped cleanly at the end where it inserts into the mast; it appears to have had some of the dreaded scoring. Could I just drill replacement holes, file it smooth, and have a spreader that is 1 1/2" shorter? I understand the tensions and forces will be slightly different, but I don't race seriously. I do, however, have a wonderful E-Tec 90 hp on the stern.

More info: the forestay snapped in some high winds pounding the furled jib. Nobody hurt (no one was around; did it make a sound?). The forestay, the spreader, the starboard shroud, and a 2" plate for the base of the mast raising kit appear to be the the only losses.

[NiceAft]

Cost of a new spreader from BWY............................$25 ( I think)
Peace of mind about doing things correctly................Priceless


Ray

[Hardcrab]

You could prolly do this and sheet a little closer to the wind if you have a genny. The stays would have to tighten up some, but it's do-able.

You might consider eliminating the problem by changing to SS spreaders and eliminate once and for all this text book dis-simular metal corrosion.
There are some who will opine that the "scoring" you witnessed is not related to mechanical burrs at all.
Two different types of metal in conjunction with an electrolyte (water/salt water) will make a battery resulting in the transfer of electrons.
Just like the old nickle and a penny in a grapefruit science project will make electricity.
Left in the grapefruit long enough, the copper will corrode away to nothing.
The aluminum spreader is the sacrificial metal in your "battery".
Two like metals will not support this process.
SS spreaders will remove this nagging worry and potential disaster from happening again.
"Well what about the end caps. Aren't they aluminum"?
Yes. But they are anodized, and do not conduct electricity.

Cost of making your own pair of SS spreaders----------$45
Peace of mind knowing it won't happen again---ever-------- Priceless.
(Thanks NiceAft)

As always, IHMO.

[Bluecrab]

Mine were bent from trailering. I'll blame it on the PO using bungee cords too tight on the upper shrouds to keep them from flapping. They are also scored but only on one slide. I believe mechanical, again from trailering. Also my boat has never seen salt water.

I checked my old ones for dimensions before buying. The Macgregor web site lists them as 1/8" wall thickness. But if that was true the spreader end fittings would not fit.

Found 8ft of 1" D aluminum tubing with 1/16" wall thickness at Menard's $16.00.

Unobtainium would be my next choice.

[Hardcrab]

If you are using aluminum, please do yourself and your crew a favor and learn the alloy and temper of the material you are getting, and what alloy and temper should be used.

[Bluecrab]

If you are using aluminum, please do yourself and your crew a favor and learn the alloy and temper of the material you are getting, and what alloy and temper should be used

You make a good point and I have consider it. Not sure how easy that will be. Macgregor web site does not list that info and Menard's will probably not give me a certification.

This topic has been covered in other posts and I tend to agree with the comment by Kelly Hanson East in the other thread. I don't want to make it stronger than originally intended either. Which is what SST would do.

http://macgregorsailors.com/phpBB/viewt ... &&start=15

I might be misquoting him, or maybe he didnt say this, but IIRC Chip Hindes, who busts stuff for a living, pointed out that making the spreaders stronger (like SS) might make them the non-weakest part of the rig.

Since they are the easiest and cheapest alternative to ripping out chainplates from hull, snapping masts, etc you might not want this to be the case.

.

Another reply also suggested the heavier SST that far out would add to the heeling.

[Boblee]

If the speaders break and the mast bends or breaks the base etc this may not be the case.

Since they are the easiest and cheapest alternative to ripping out chainplates from hull, snapping masts, etc you might not want this to be the case.

[Hardcrab]

I also considered that viewpoint before I switched to SS.

The idea that I tear up my boat and perhaps injure or kill someone because of gross negligence on my part doing something totally wrong is always a possibility if my SS spreader mast crashes.
It will be my fault.
And I will pay the price for my actions.

That does not give me the same reaction as having that same property damage, injury ,or death occur after a mast crash because of a solidly understood chemical reaction occuring 24/7 in ideal conditions. All the while, I'm totaly oblivious as to if and when the corrosion weakens the spreader enough to fail and begin the crash.
It would not be my fault.
And I will pay the price.

Granted, SS will not be for everyone.
Those who trailer alot and can inspect their spreaders have no need for SS.
Those of us who leave their masts more up than down in a salt water area are the ones most at risk.

Even if you are convinced that it is a mechanical failure, the aluminum will always lose in the "scoring" fight. With the same results as above.

Luckily teddadbear had only property damage when his spreader failed.
We all know it could have been much worse.

I do not care to roll the dice.
No unannounced mast crash for me, thank you.

As always, IMHO

[Kelly Hanson East]

At the beginning of each season, I walk through my rigging from bow to stern and check every pin, swage, and piece of hardware for corrosion and damage...and Im a fresh water sailor. My boat is now 7 years old, so Im expecting to start replacing stuff soon.

[Bluecrab]

That does not give me the same reaction as having that same property damage, injury ,or death occur after a mast crash because of a solidly understood chemical reaction occuring 24/7 in ideal conditions. All the while, I'm totaly oblivious as to if and when the corrosion weakens the spreader enough to fail and begin the crash.

I apologize if I am in error here. I assumed that the failure of taddadbear's spreader was the result of the mast coming down when the forestay snapped. Not that the spreader caused the crash.

Also I will have to admit being just a deckhand I'm green at all this rigging stuff and still have a lot to learn.

[Scott]

When my mast came down over the winter, the spreader snapped cleanly at the end where it inserts into the mast; it appears to have had some of the dreaded scoring. Could I just drill replacement holes, file it smooth, and have a spreader that is 1 1/2" shorter? I understand the tensions and forces will be slightly different, but I don't race seriously. I do, however, have a wonderful E-Tec 90 hp on the stern.

The first time I broke a spreader I did this. Intending to salvage a weekend of sailing I had planned on fixing it immediately. 2 years later I did just that!!

[Hardcrab]

The first time?
You have had more than one spreader break?

This could be an enlightening "poll question" for the board.

"Who has had a spreader break, with conditions and damage"?

[Frank C]

I have bent a spreader, but never had one fail. I think Bluecrab is correct ... that spreader probably snapped on the score-ring during the failure of the rig. It's unlikely the spreader caused the failure, since 99% of the forces on that spreader are linear, where the scoring has no impact. I doubt that spreader caused the rig failure.

As for the OP's main question ... I wouldn't hesitate to just shorten both spreaders by 2 inches, and re-tune the rig. Some here have shortened them by 9 inches so they clear the lifelines ... I'd draw the line at that 'customization' though. That's making a significant change to the "rig trig" IMO.

Most spreaders will bend from unwise treatment during trailering, or from contact overhead, such as a tree limb ... or maybe a lightpost when launching. We once saw a report here of a heeled Mac catching shroud on a navaid, causing rig failure and losing the mast while sailing.

WADR ... I very much doubt that Roger is using any special alloys or treatments for these spreaders. After contact with a tree limb I just replaced my bent spreader with a like-sample of common AL tubing, foregoing the nicely anodized finish on the factory item. At its 12-ft elevation, you can't tell.

Some have reported inserting a wooden dowel (much too heavy, methinks) or a length of PVC pipe (seems better), or replacing with SS like hardcrab. But I haven't bothered to reinforce my spreaders. The rigging forces place the tubing in linear compression. I'm no engineer, but any dummy (me included) can see that this is the strongest dimension of this tubing. While it's possible to delay its failure in other dimensions, I doubt you can significantly improve its primary service.

And keep in mind, failure of a spreader is most likely to cause your mast to neatly fold to either side of the boat, rather than into the cockpit. That's not a bad failure mode, methinks.

Repeating my comment from another thread, just today . . .
The most common point of mast failure is at the spreaders, which is also where the lower shrouds attach. The aft-swept spreaders are pushing forward, stabilized by the lowers pulling aft, making that the strongest point of mast stability.

Any abnormal forces on the upper mast exert maximum leverage right at that midpoint ... just above the stabilty of the spreaders. Easiest way to view this ... rig forces make that midpoint into an unwitting hinge-point.

[Scott]

Both times I broke a spreader was due to raising and lowering the mast. Not sailing related.

Yes 2 times. I now carry 2 spares on the boat under the aft berth. Homemade from raw stock as well as a spare forestay and spare shrouds. (old but serviceable when I re-rigged)

[Rich Plumb]

I just replaced the spreaders on my 2000 26X. Here's where I got the 6061 6T 1" od X .065 Wall, tubing:

http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cf ... &top_cat=0

I ordered two 48" pieces and they were delivered in 1 1/2 days. Of course I live near Seattle where the vendor is located.

~~~~~~~~~_/)~~~~~~~~
Rich Plumb, "Plumb Crazy"
26X Covington, WA