A lot of good tips above - thanks. I have a genoa on the new 08 furler and also am getting frustrated with it. I too run up and start it going by hand. I did have problems with the spare halyard catching up at the top when it was tied off on the mast - I now tie it off at the bowsprit and it appears to stay out of the way. I am taking the mast down in 2 weeks for our first adventure to the San Juans - and am curious to inspect the top of the roller to see whats going on.
Gerry
New Furler--HELP it won't furl
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Gerry the fish
- Chief Steward
- Posts: 78
- Joined: Sun Jan 13, 2008 9:07 pm
- Sailboat: MacGregor 26M
- Location: Portland, OR; '08 Mac M, Suzuki 50 and Lido 14
Highlander:
The line did/would pinch in the drum, but this was a function of the silver drum binding against the black plastic top/bottom pieces. Once it was lubed with Tri-Flow and a bit of grease, the binding went away and the furling line spins off and on with no problems. Still, the idea of having a bearing kit is very appealing. Can you please let me know when/if you finalize the CDI bearing retro fit? I am definatley interested in that mod.
Gerry the Fish:
The jib halyard on my M, and others 08 models that I have seen, is not optimal. I know my dealer indicated that the new furler required placing the block a bit higher--at least on my boat to accomodate the longer(? )jib forestay and my spinaker set up. The angle of jib flexifurler/forestay and the distance of the jib block sticking out at top of the mast = problems.
I had a custom carbon fiber cup made (by Ida Sailor) to cover the top of the jib stay/block. I can secure the jib halyard to the mast and the jib halyard no longer wraps in the jib/forestay. I believe the cost of the cup was in the $70ish range, but don't quote me. Or, you can attach it to the bow pulpit for free..
The line did/would pinch in the drum, but this was a function of the silver drum binding against the black plastic top/bottom pieces. Once it was lubed with Tri-Flow and a bit of grease, the binding went away and the furling line spins off and on with no problems. Still, the idea of having a bearing kit is very appealing. Can you please let me know when/if you finalize the CDI bearing retro fit? I am definatley interested in that mod.
Gerry the Fish:
The jib halyard on my M, and others 08 models that I have seen, is not optimal. I know my dealer indicated that the new furler required placing the block a bit higher--at least on my boat to accomodate the longer(? )jib forestay and my spinaker set up. The angle of jib flexifurler/forestay and the distance of the jib block sticking out at top of the mast = problems.
I had a custom carbon fiber cup made (by Ida Sailor) to cover the top of the jib stay/block. I can secure the jib halyard to the mast and the jib halyard no longer wraps in the jib/forestay. I believe the cost of the cup was in the $70ish range, but don't quote me. Or, you can attach it to the bow pulpit for free..
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ALX357
- Admiral
- Posts: 1231
- Joined: Thu Jul 22, 2004 6:09 am
- Location: Nashville TN -- 2000 MacGregor 26X, Mercury two-stroke 50hp
As for the members who may have read a post above stating that the furler line must have a wrap or two onthe drum to have "leverage" to begin turning the drum when the sail is fully out, a correction is in order.
If the sail is out, the furler line must be wrapped around the drum, to the same extent. If the sail is fully out, the line will be fully wrapped, if the sail is a little out, there will be a little line wrapped around the drum.
If you have the drum empty or nearly empty, while the sail is out, you have no way to the sail up. Likewise, it takes a rolled up sail to allow you to wind up the furler line on the drum by pulling the sail's sheets.
This may be obvious once everything is configured correctly, but at the intitial rig setup it is easy to get confused. The CDI drum has just enough room for line to be completely full if the sail is fully pulled out.
If the sail is out, the furler line must be wrapped around the drum, to the same extent. If the sail is fully out, the line will be fully wrapped, if the sail is a little out, there will be a little line wrapped around the drum.
If you have the drum empty or nearly empty, while the sail is out, you have no way to the sail up. Likewise, it takes a rolled up sail to allow you to wind up the furler line on the drum by pulling the sail's sheets.
This may be obvious once everything is configured correctly, but at the intitial rig setup it is easy to get confused. The CDI drum has just enough room for line to be completely full if the sail is fully pulled out.
Correct ALX357.
By the way, lubing the drum did the trick. Went out on the lake today and had no problems furling the jib from every point of sail Even when the jib was loaded under 7+ knots on a beam reach the jib would furl. I presume this is what it was supposed to do when bought from the factory, but it took some investigation to figure out why it wouldn't work. Now on to modifying the dagger-board to get rid of the "clunk".
By the way, lubing the drum did the trick. Went out on the lake today and had no problems furling the jib from every point of sail Even when the jib was loaded under 7+ knots on a beam reach the jib would furl. I presume this is what it was supposed to do when bought from the factory, but it took some investigation to figure out why it wouldn't work. Now on to modifying the dagger-board to get rid of the "clunk".