Hi everyone,
I am a new owner and would like to add some 12v recetacles. I have been wiring car electronics for a long time so I am familiar with 12v systems so my questions should be pretty basic. When adding receptacles, do you wire them into the current panel to the auxilary switch, directly to the batt with fuse or install a new fuse panel? I would like to be able to plug in a 12v radio/dvd player, cooler and some misc things, i.e. cell phone etc. Also, do I just use normal 12v wiring for it or is there special "marine" wiring to use?
Also, I would like to be able to anchor on the Potomac, I have read many things about anchor lights. Do I need to install one to be able to anchor off short?
Thanks for any/all help. Timmay!!!
If you are updating your electrical system, you might just as well do it right: install a fuse panel with at least six circuit breakers; you will soon find out that there are never enough separate circuits for your outlets (cigarette lighters into which you will plug your aux, or electronics, or a cooler, or additional lights, or a radio, etc etc.) The original Mac 26X came with crappy wiring for the original 3 fuse panel. I kept it as such, connecting it to the main circuit breaker, but everything else was redone with marine grade electical wire wich is reputedly resistant not only to water, but to gas and oil that might be present in the bilge. The original non-marine wiring (looks like regular 120 V wiring that comes with night lamps and such, but it is not color-coded) seems to be holding, but I feel safer with the rest of the electronics connected with marine-grade wiring. The gauge depends on the length of the wires. If I remember correctly, I used 12 gauge, available from West Marine (and kind of expensive)
Yes, you need an anchor light on the mast--
I wired a 12-volt receptacle to my aux switch on the 4-switch panel. The plug is up on that same area, just under the switch panel. I use it for my handheld VHF radio and to run a fan. I have a second 12-volt receptacle on my pedastal...installed by the PO...and wired directly to the hot wire in the pedastal controlled by the battery swtich...not sure if there is a fuse in the line. But I am thinking of putting a 4-switch panel on my pedastal for things on my pedastal (depth guage, GPS, fuel guage, and 12-volt receptacle).
And I bought a plug in Davis Mega Light to use as an anchor light...but I haven't used it yet.
I am changing out my 4-switch panel for a 8-switch fuse panel in less than 2 weeks...can't wait to get back.
Anchor light.
I've seen a DIY anchor light setup that is pretty good, especially if you are not anchoring all that much and you don't want to deal with the
removable mast /electrical plug issue.
This guy used a battery powered, dinghy type LED clamp-on stern white light modified to be fixed at the top of a 2' lenght of 1/2" pvc pipe.
A small eyebolt is used to attach the main haylard at about the halfway point on the pipe.
A downhaul is fixed to the bottom of the pipe.
Turn on the light, raise the halyard to the very top and tie off tightly.
Tie the downhaul tightly to keep everything inline, upright, and snug to the mast.
The extra foot or so of pipe now extends beyond the mast top to present the all around light.
Pretty slick and painless, emphasis on painless, IMHO.
Thanks guys. I like the idea you posted hardcrab. Will a metal eyebolt hurt the track that the mainsail connects to (sorry if I don't know the marine terminology). It looks like I could purchase a light like Jim posted, connect it to 1/2" PVC, attach eyebolts (maybe 2 for stability), extend the cord so it will reach the top of the mast to the inside and tie a downhaul to the bottom of it. Sound correct? Thanks again. Tim
c130,
I am under the impression that sailboat anchor lights are at the top of the mast so as to be visible a full 360 degrees, and displayed from sunset to sunrise while riding at anchor.
Something installed lower would have blind spots caused by obstructions between the light and the viewer.
I think everyone who talks about installing anchor lights refers to the mast top.
But I'm not 100% sure either way.
Timmay,
I'm sure it can be done multiple ways.
The generic idea and concept is were the real value lies, at least to me.
A battery powered, seldom used, halyard raised anchor light extending beyond the mast top (as per regs??) with zero hassels is pure gold in my book.
I haven't built one yet, as we don't anchor to any extent, so I can't offer any specific advice beyond the basic idea.
Measurements and methods, if you tackle this, will be most welcomed.
I did a quick look at Cal regs, and a loose quote: "An all around light best positioned where it can be best seen for at least 2 miles ------".
My take would be:
An "all around" light infers a complete 360 degrees.
Any obstruction would cause an "almost all around" light condition, less than 360.
Any degree of allowable obstruction for the "almost" portion of the circle is not given.
All of the drawings on the page shows the anchor light to be the highest thing on the boats, powered and sail.
Perhaps we are picking the flysh*t out of the pepper with this topic.
There is no requirement for the anchor light to be at the top of the mast. It can be anywhere that it can bee seen for 360 degrees with no more than 6 degrees occluded in total. Having it hanging near the mast would start to occlude to much. Back at the topping lift or backstay the mast section does not occlude enough to be a problem.
Thanks for everyone helping out on this. I am pretty sure I don't have a topping lift (that is an "add-on" correct?). As far as the backstay, would you have to run another line to raise the light or would it just have to clamp on higher that most of the boat? If I leave the mast carrier on the boat, could the anchor light clamp on there and be within regulations? The only thing higher than the carrier are the lines and mast.
Hardcrab,
If I can get away with mounting it on the carrier, I will probably do that. I was under the same assumption as you but I am new to sailing/boating. If it does have to go higher, I will try the mast mount idea. Theoretically it doesn't sound hard (I could be wrong as I am new to sailing though). If I do, I will definately post results and a list of items. Timmay!!!
Timmay,
The boat does not come with a topping lift.
Lots of people have added one.
Two types are used.
An "active" one that runs from boom end, through a block at the top of the mast, down to a cleat.
This can allow for some minor sail shape adjustments in really light air by raising the boom to get more belly and power.
A "static" one is a simple line tied at the mast top to a clip of some sort at the end of the boom to keep the boom from hitting the deck when the sail is lowered.
It's lenght makes it slightly loose when the sail is fully raised. The "floppy" line causes no problems while sailing.
Of course, it tightens up when the sail isn't supporting the boom.
The M's have a threaded stud installed up there for mounting a red trailer light that can do great second duty as a topping lift fixing point or block.
Obviously M's don't have a backstay like an X does. You could do the same with a topping lift.
For years I used a Davis Mega light plugged in a 12v outlet at my pedestal. I simply put a loose cable tie loop on the light, and used the main halyard to hoist it up the backstay. If you were going way up you might want to tie a light line to the light to pull it back down with. The wire on the Mega Light would allow the light to go up about 10', plenty high to be seen. Hoisting too high will get it to close to the mast and it will be obstructed to much.
Personally I don't like an anchor light really high. You have to look up too much to actually see the light on a dark night in close quarters. Hanging it lower is more at eye level for moving boats instead of 'star' level. Also when hung lower, the Davis Mega light shines light down as well as out to the side putting some light on the boat deck and canvas making it more visible to that speeding power boat blindly charging through the anchorage.
Also note that if you are anchored in a designated anchorage on the chart there is no need to show the light.
In general in any anchorage I find only about half the boats ever show an anchor light.
with respect to the others posting...here are the Australian regulations...and nowhere does it say that close enough is good enough. A 36o degree white light MUST show for the full 360 degrees.
Rule 22 - Visibility of lights
Please note: The following information has been reproduced from Part C (Lights and Shapes) of the Prevention of Collision at Sea Regulations 1983 (external link). The purpose of the reproduction is to explain "graphically'' the requirements of navigation lights on a variety of vessels.
(a) In a vessel of 50 metres or more in length:
a masthead light, 6 miles (11.1 km);
a sidelight, 3 miles (5.56 km);
a sternlight, 3 miles ( 5.56 km);
a towing light, 3 miles (5.56 km); and
a white, red, green or yellow all-round - light, 3 miles (5.56 km).
(b) In a vessel of 12 metres or more but less than 50 metres in length:
a masthead light, 5 miles (9.3 km); except that where the length of the vessel is less than 20 metres, 3 miles;
a sidelight, 2 miles ( 3.7 km);
a sternlight, 2 miles (3.7 km);
a towing light, 2 miles (3.7 km); and
a white, red, green, or yellow all-round light, 2 miles (3.7 km).
(c) In vessels of less than 12 metres in length:
a masthead light, 2 miles (3.7 km);
a sidelight, 1 mile (1.85 km);
a sternlight, 2 miles (3.7 km);
a towing light, 2 miles (3.7 km); and
a white, red, green, or yellow all-round light, 2 miles (3.7 km).
(d) In inconspicuous, partly submerged vessels or objects being towed;
a white all-round light, 3 miles (5.56 km).
the brilliance of the lights is very important...they MUST be seen at the distance specified.
A government vessel surveyor once told me that most vessels had illegal side lights because they were mounted directly onto inward sloping cabin side...they should have a chamfered washer that eliminated the slope...so that they were 90 degrees upright to the water level , flat and calm.
The top of the mast is the only logical legal place for an all round mooring/ parking light. just my 2cents worth...
My Thoughts on this is that when I'm entering a place where I want to anchor at night I'm to busy scanning my eyes accross the bow for channel markers if any or rock shouls , sand bars , land markers , anchored boats with no markings, in the fog I'm all eye's & ears , but the last thing I'm sure as #ell doing is looking at the Sky for aircraft lights or is that a Star up there !. A masthead anchor light might be better for commcerial ships to be able to see you but by then its most likely to late for them to take evasive action & I'd think they'd be in more trouble than I am if their coming towards my anchorage ! I have an anchor light that plugs into the Pedestal & hangs off the topping lift about at the spreaders & if someone gets too close turn on the deck light to alluminate the boat deck !
Thats my Pennys worth but to each his own !
J
owner and would like to add some 12v recetacles. I have been wiring car electronics for a long time so I am familiar with 12v systems so my questions should be pretty basic. When adding receptacles, do you wire them into the current panel to the auxilary switch, directly to the batt with fuse or install a new fuse panel? I would like to be able to plug in a 12v radio/dvd player, cooler and some misc things, i.e. cell phone etc. Also, do I just use normal 12v wiring for it or is there special "marine" wiring to use?
but to each his own !