Disc Brake Problem?

[Jack O'Brien]

Have you ever had any problem with your trailer disc brakes? If so, please describe - including the brand, age and any other details you can.

Likewise, if you have discs and have NOT had any problem, please provide similar info.

TIA

Please excuse me for posting here rather than on TRAILERS & TOWING but, unless debating the merits of tow vehicles, that forum gets minimal response.

[Randy Smith]

I have standard drums on my 96 trailer. I had a break lockup problem....well, it seemed to be my own stupidity....the cable on the trailer brake was tangled, and when I slowed or tried to backup the trailer's surge break became locked......I assume the new trailers have surge brakes also, check that cable and make sure it isn't bound up.......

[Randy Smith]

I have standard drums on my 96 trailer. I had a break lockup problem....well, it seemed to be my own stupidity....the cable on the trailer brake was tangled, and when I slowed or tried to backup the trailer's surge break became locked......I assume the new trailers have surge brakes also, check that cable and make sure it isn't bound up.......

[Frank C]

Standard drum brakes, locked a brake after long tow, 4th year of saltwater dunking. Predictable. Inevitable. Disc brakes are better.

[Sloop John B]

My stock cast iron slave cylinders were frozen and useless. Champion only markets aluminum ones now, because most of their customer base is salt water.

[Randy Smith]

OK, let me have it. I have my standard issue Mac trailer...96 issue. Do you all refit to discs? Did your trailers come with discs? I don't touch salt water so I don't have the probs Floridians would have or others who back into the brine.....what do you think I should do, affordable and smart? Rand

[Dimitri-2000X-Tampa]

Randy, when I first got my boat in June 2003, the stock 2000 model (January build date) brakes were already shot. The slave cylinders had rusted, seals blew, and all the fluid had leaked out. The master cylinder was a bit rusty since there was no brake fluid in it for a while (it sat in an open lot for 6-12 months before I bought it).

Since I was in a hurry to use my (new to me) boat more (with classII tow vehicle) and didn't feel like doing the brake job myself, I took it to a trailer shop. I asked about disc brakes and they said they could get them, but they would have to be ordered. If I wanted new brakes today, I needed to go with drum brakes again.

But the guy seemed knowledgeable and said that the original Mac brakes were crap compared to what he could put on. For example, the metal was of a much inferior grade (perhaps for auto brakes), the slave cylinders were two sided and not made out of the right materials, etc. He said the new brakes were made for salt water and that if I shot them up with anti-corrosive (SP-400) once a year, they would last for many years of saltwater use. I also went ahead and got new bearings too just in case those were of inferior quality.

So far, I only took them apart once after about 14 months, and sure enough, they were not too corroded at all (my trailer goes in salt water probably 6-12 times per year). I sprayed some more anti corrosive on them, adjusted them, and greased the bearings again. Guess we will see what they look like after 2-3 years the next time I get around to it.

SS Disc brakes sure seem better on paper though, no adjustments and everything is not covered up so you can hose them down real easy. But it also seems that the collective experience on this board is not that long yet for these brakes... If someone has SS disc brakes on their Mac for at least 5 years and dunks them in saltwater at least a few times a year and can say they still look as good as new....then, I would be pretty likely to replace my drums with discs when they wear out. How long my "marine grade" drum brakes last is also going to be part of the equation for me.

[ken lockhart]

Go to this site to get pictures and a good explanation on what is envolved in changing your trailer brakes. Although it is a trailer for a Hunter 26, you can get some helpful hints.

Ken [/http://www.sailboatowners.com/upload/di ... &fno=17url]http://www.sailboatowners.com/upload/di ... 747&fno=17

[Dimitri-2000X-Tampa]

Ken, thats a good site. Although coiling up the extra brake line seems a bit kludgey a may make it more vulnerable.



Seems like you could cut the tubing to the right size with a pipe cutter. Should just be standard brass compression fittings I would think.

Btw, I learned a long time ago, if you regularly spray your trailer with lubricant on all the rust prone spots, it slows the rust WAY down...probably double or triples the life of a trailer in the rough Florida environment. On my mac trailer, when I start seeing a bit of rust, I'll hit it with a can of rustolium...only costs a few bucks and takes a few minutes. You can turn the can upside down to clear the nozzle so that you don't have to spray out the whole can at a time. On threaded fittings though, I just hit it with SP-400 or WD-40..although WD-40 is so light, it doesn't last too long. I do the same for my lug nuts and studs. The only part that the rust was going out of control for me was the painted wheels, so I recently replaced them with galvanized.

[Randy Smith]

great info! Thanks! Randy

[Jack O'Brien]

That Hunter Trailer renovation guy is a good photographer.

Anybody installing new brakes would be wise to use anti-seize lubricant on the threads of the bleed bolts and/or get SS ones. My Tie Down Eng. brass bleed bolts froze in the aluminum calipers after 1.5 years and required a torch and an outside "easy-out" to remove. One bolt broke in half.

I had to replace the brake lines on my 2000 X trailer last month. The trailer shop guy said nobody uses metal lines anymore.* They all use flexible poly hose. I got a set from him that included all the fittings (one "Tee") and three hoses. Nice.

*Champion Trailer sells SS lines. These can't be cut and flared at home.

[Rolf]

Under the old recent changes section for Roger's old Mac 26x website, he said brakes had SS components since mid-1999. Does this mean SS disc brakes? Or could they stil be drum?
Rolf

[Chip Hindes]

The trailer shop guy said nobody uses metal lines anymore.* They all use flexible poly hose. I got a set from him that included all the fittings (one "Tee") and three hoses. Nice.

*Champion Trailer sells SS lines. These can't be cut and flared at home.

Not so nice. The Champion website specifically recommends against all hose brake lines. The disc brakes require higher line pressure; if you have all hose, too much of the pressure gets used up simply expanding the hose.

Nobody I know recommends you attempt to cut and flare brake lines at home. Brake lines in steel and SS tubing require special flaring equipment to do double upset and bubble flares. You can't use a hardware store flaring tool designed for brass tubing to flare brake lines.

You can't alter the length of hose lines either, but Champion provides their SS lines in enough different lengths that there is no need to shorten lines. Just buy the right length to begin with.

[Catigale]

Back when I did antique VWs for a hobby, the VW correct length brake lines were always about 10x overpriced

We would buy off brand flared brake lines, perhaps 2-3 inches too long, and the bend gentle curves by rolling the brake line around a 3 inch diameter piece of pipe to bring down to the correct length.

The pipe serves as a jig to give you a smooth radius curve without kinking.

Bend half the excess length away in one curve, then bring the end back to the positon with a bend the other way so it looks a bit like an 'S' when you are done.

Catigale