New Tires / Hub Check
- Russell
- Chief Steward
- Posts: 94
- Joined: Sat Jan 03, 2004 2:09 pm
- Location: Albany, NY - 1996 26X - Great Sacandaga Lake
- Contact:
New Tires / Hub Check
I just received my new Goodyear Marathons. I wanted to check the bearings and the break system while I have the wheel off on the stock setup. Do I need any special tools to pull this stuff apart? Besides the obvious 4way lug wrench. Thanks guys.. 
Your going to need to pull the tire first and then remove the ez lube bearing buddies. This is done by using a rubber mallot on the side of the chrome housing. The housing is just pressed on. Once off, remove the cotter pin, nut and pull off drum. You do not need any special tools for this. Hope this helps!!!
Jeff
Jeff
- Duane Dunn, Allegro
- Admiral
- Posts: 2459
- Joined: Fri Jan 02, 2004 6:41 pm
- Sailboat: MacGregor 26X
- Location: Bellevue, Wa '96 26x, Tohatsu 90 TLDI and Plug In Hybrid Electric drive
- Contact:
I didn't need any special tools to do mine, although my mechanic neighbor did have some helpful things such as a brass drift to knock out the inner seal and bearing.
Unless the trailer is really new, I'd have on hand at least some new seals and probably new bearings. A set is quite cheap and you might as well install new ones if you are going to the trouble of pulling it all apart. You will of course need grease to re-pack everything and a can of spray brake cleaner will be useful as well for cleaning things up. I also used some no seize recommended by my neighbor on the lug nuts.
Unless the trailer is really new, I'd have on hand at least some new seals and probably new bearings. A set is quite cheap and you might as well install new ones if you are going to the trouble of pulling it all apart. You will of course need grease to re-pack everything and a can of spray brake cleaner will be useful as well for cleaning things up. I also used some no seize recommended by my neighbor on the lug nuts.
- craiglaforce
- Captain
- Posts: 831
- Joined: Fri Jan 02, 2004 8:30 am
- Sailboat: MacGregor 26X
- Location: Houston, Tx
I recently bought spare bearings, seals, cotter pins and washer for both wheels from Champion trailer, plus a bag of wheel bearing grease from a parts store.
I bought kit number 8 which I think is correct from reading all the various posts on the subject.
The autoparts store near me didn't have the seals. The bearings they had were Timkens made in Germany. price was about double the champion price. The Champion bearings were made in China.
CHAMPION TRAILER
PARTS SUPPLY
1-800-229-6690
FAX: 1-800-359-8169 ORDER FORM
56705 I-10 SERVICE RD SLIDELL, LA. 70458
http://www.championtrailers.com/BEARING ... ges/8.html
BEARING AND RACE KIT - PART # 0217, 4137, 4138
COMPLETE WITH:
BEARINGS, RACES, DOUBLE LIP SEAL, AND COTTER PIN
ITEM
# PART
# SPINDLE
SIZE BEARINGS
INNER/OUTER SEAL
OD SEAL
ID TRANSCOM
SEAL # WT PRICE
EACH
Kit # 8 0217 1 3/8" x 1 1/16" 68149/44649 2.56" 1.72" 17255 1.5# $10.95
I bought kit number 8 which I think is correct from reading all the various posts on the subject.
The autoparts store near me didn't have the seals. The bearings they had were Timkens made in Germany. price was about double the champion price. The Champion bearings were made in China.
CHAMPION TRAILER
PARTS SUPPLY
1-800-229-6690
FAX: 1-800-359-8169 ORDER FORM
56705 I-10 SERVICE RD SLIDELL, LA. 70458
http://www.championtrailers.com/BEARING ... ges/8.html
BEARING AND RACE KIT - PART # 0217, 4137, 4138
COMPLETE WITH:
BEARINGS, RACES, DOUBLE LIP SEAL, AND COTTER PIN
ITEM
# PART
# SPINDLE
SIZE BEARINGS
INNER/OUTER SEAL
OD SEAL
ID TRANSCOM
SEAL # WT PRICE
EACH
Kit # 8 0217 1 3/8" x 1 1/16" 68149/44649 2.56" 1.72" 17255 1.5# $10.95
- Chip Hindes
- Admiral
- Posts: 2166
- Joined: Mon Jan 05, 2004 6:13 am
- Location: West Sand Lake, NY '01X, "Nextboat" 50HP Tohatsu
Inspect the bearings; if they look OK there's no good reason to replace them. They are fairly inexpensive so it's no big deal either way. Plan to replace the seals, they're only a few bucks each and there's almost no way to get them out without damaging them.
You'll have better luck finding the bearings and seals both at Bearing Distributors (Spring Ave extension, Troy), an RV/trailer supply, or auto parts store (I believe in that order); I'd be truly surprised if you could find them at West Marine. They're also available from Champion Trailers. Whoever you get them from, you'll need the I.D. and O.D. (and the inner and outer bearings are different sizes) as well as the seal O.D.; they'll just laugh at you if you tell them it's for a Mac boat trailer. It's easiest to just take the old ones with you.
You shouldn't need to bleed the brakes unless you've disconnected the lines or cylinders, or have a fluid leak and allowed the master cylinder to run dry. However, pull the master cylinder plug and shine a light into the existing fluid. If it's dirty, cloudy (indicating water contamination) or otherwise doesn't look right, flushing it out with new fluid is a good idea and not too difficult.
You'll have better luck finding the bearings and seals both at Bearing Distributors (Spring Ave extension, Troy), an RV/trailer supply, or auto parts store (I believe in that order); I'd be truly surprised if you could find them at West Marine. They're also available from Champion Trailers. Whoever you get them from, you'll need the I.D. and O.D. (and the inner and outer bearings are different sizes) as well as the seal O.D.; they'll just laugh at you if you tell them it's for a Mac boat trailer. It's easiest to just take the old ones with you.
You shouldn't need to bleed the brakes unless you've disconnected the lines or cylinders, or have a fluid leak and allowed the master cylinder to run dry. However, pull the master cylinder plug and shine a light into the existing fluid. If it's dirty, cloudy (indicating water contamination) or otherwise doesn't look right, flushing it out with new fluid is a good idea and not too difficult.
- Sloop John B
- Captain
- Posts: 871
- Joined: Sat Jan 03, 2004 2:45 am
- Sailboat: MacGregor 26X
- Location: Florida 'Big Bend'. 02x Yamaha T50
Get the history on this trailer. How many miles, how big a load? Were the tires worn out? Big factor is salt water. If it is dipped in salt, your cylinders will be frozen up and rusted. Be sure to get the correct grease, extreme pressure. The seal has a number on it stamped in the rubber bushing. Race and bearings have numbers on their flat edges. You don't remove/install races with your fingers. There are many tricks/methods.
I am an expert on this subject (I went through it once ).
Start with www.championtrailers.com and go to their technical support/information pages to familiarize yourself with the parts and procedure.
I am an expert on this subject (I went through it once ).
Start with www.championtrailers.com and go to their technical support/information pages to familiarize yourself with the parts and procedure.
- Don T
- Admiral
- Posts: 1084
- Joined: Fri Jan 02, 2004 7:13 pm
- Sailboat: MacGregor 26X
- Location: 95 2600 "SS OTTER" - Portland OR - Tohatsu 50 - Hull#64 (May 95)
Hello:
The easy way to get the seals out:
After you have removed the outer bearing, put the nut back on the spindle a few turns. Hold the drum perpendicular and with slight down pressure, give it a quick slide off the spindle. The nut will stop the rear bearing from sliding off and the seal will be removed from the drum with it. This method causes no damage to the bearing or seal.
The easy way to get the seals out:
After you have removed the outer bearing, put the nut back on the spindle a few turns. Hold the drum perpendicular and with slight down pressure, give it a quick slide off the spindle. The nut will stop the rear bearing from sliding off and the seal will be removed from the drum with it. This method causes no damage to the bearing or seal.
