Mercury Bigfoot issues

[Wayjoy]

I just recently purchased a used 1999 26x with a 1999 50hp Mercury Bigfoot on it. When I launched the boat to put in my wet slip it started up fine and I was able to get it to the slip with no problems. Now when I start it and try to put it in gear it cuts out. It runs fine in neutral though. I'm not sure how long since the motor was last used since I bought the boat used. I have noticed that its very hard to shift and put in gear. Not sure if that's part of the problem or not. Thanks!

[Divecoz]

That's a good place to look first... The Hand control box... Yes...It should take effort to engage and disengage but it really shouldn't be HARD To Shift Gears.. Numerous possibilities though including the cables .
That motor for all practical purposes isn't under load .. not at Idle and just shifting into gear..Shouldn't...... kill it???
Sounds Like.....a kill switch doesn't it?? Does it happen ( die) in both forward and reverse?
I would for sure start looking there . Take the side cover off the hand control throttle Assembly...

[c130king]

My Merc (not a bigfoot) gave me a similar problem when the PO was showing me how to run it. Turns out he forget to open the vent on the fuel tank cap. Once he figured that out it worked great.

Good Luck.

Cheers,
Jim
Sailing on König

[fishheadbarandgrill]

I had the same symptom on an old Evinrude 88hp 2 stroke and replaced the control cables. Problem fixed. If your control arm is stiff, your cables just might need to be replaced.

Bob

[Wayjoy]

Thanks for all the info. Im pretty new to boating and just now learning how to sail. So it's a bummer to have this happen right after I purchased the boat and not being able to take it out yet. I will definitely check the cables because it's very, very hard to shift and does cut out in forward and reverse. Almost like a grinding sound before it shuts off. There was a tad bit of gas left in the tank so I was wondering maybe if it was possibly bad gas since it's be sitting for a while? Hopefully it's something that simple and not something like the carbs.

[Divecoz]

There should be NO GRINDING......Something is Not Right... Cables or lets hope not!! The Gear Case.. I would hate to even offer to guess , at how many issues could cause one of these small outboards to die/stall.... The Vent could be an ISSUE That said , there should still be NO Grinding.. STOP... disconnect the cables at the motor.. Now ....Check the cable at the control lever for fluid motion and if that seems good to go...check the gear shift on the engine with the engine off!!! YOU May?? Have to try it with the engine running but have competent help at the controls to shut her down fast... and be.... in a safe area or at least have her tied 7 ways from Sunday to a substantial Pier , Dock etc.. Hopefully nothing too expensive .. I have bought a Zillion New and Used Vehicles over the years and though I think of myself as fairly, mechanically adept.. I Have Bought a few ... ISSUES.. in my time . Lets just hope this is a cheap and easy fix..

Thanks for all the info. Im pretty new to boating and just now learning how to sail. So it's a bummer to have this happen right after I purchased the boat and not being able to take it out yet. I will definitely check the cables because it's very, very hard to shift and does cut out in forward and reverse. Almost like a grinding sound before it shuts off. There was a tad bit of gas left in the tank so I was wondering maybe if it was possibly bad gas since it's be sitting for a while? Hopefully it's something that simple and not something like the carbs.

[Highlander]

FYI any O/B or IN/B/ out drive that shuts down in gear will give off a grinding noise as the gears are still meshing under a no=load status the noise is caused by a no-load backlash from the gears not something to worry about, I'd suspect bad gas & or condensation in the old fuel for the eng stalling I had some simular issues at the end of last yr & most of this yr but it was intermitent swore it was a fuel issue the culprit in the end was a safety nuetral switch that kept derating the eng. or would cause the eng to miss like crazy if you went over 2500rpm's i will post this later when I get a chance

J

[mtb_gary]

I had a similar problem (maybe even the same problem) with the Merc Bigfoot 50. I had set the idle speed whilst out of the water with the ear muffs on to provide the water supply. This all worked beautifully on the trailer but as soon as I put it in the water it would idle nicely (albeit a little slower than the book stated) but then as soon as I put it into gear it would cut out. The solution - raise the idle speed up a notch and away we went. Ironically it was the day I was selling the boat and demonstrating the boat to the prospective purchaser - the sail and the sale went ahead as planned

[Divecoz]

OK....... so there you have it..This "might" very well be Normal...I have never experienced that. BUT that said, I have only ever had those issues ( stall on engagement) with One Outboard motor. Its was the Last Year Mercury made The Tower of Power In line 6's..That motor drove me and Two different Mercury mechanic's from two different shops.... Crazy.. for 2 years....In The End...The Throttle rod on the center carb would on occasion slip and not then not feed two cylinders..
Personally ......I would still check the cables..I did have that Issue on my Brand New 26m.. The Marina that sold me the motor and the install NOT the dealer, I bought the boat from ... whom I had paid $$$ had installed my New Mercury Outboard had done, what I found over time to be Very Unprofessional Work ( at a very professional price$$$$$ ) IMHO the cable set they installed was Too Long and thats were the problem was! Rather than remove and replace it, with the right size cable set, the looped them and ty-raped them ..They also cracked the Plexiglas's cover under the controller and refused to accept responsibility.. hummmm 2 years later when I was installing a 30 gallon fresh water bladder under the rear berth.... I also found that they had spliced the Main Power Cable .. this time they had installed a cable that was too short ....so they just Burndied it ( split bolt with a nut) together ... Burndy's are common items in the electrical industry ( That's what I was trained and schooled for) But you would never use one without using No-Ox or Pentrox to eliminate corrosion!!! Then these YAHOO's... compounded the ISSUE by using cheap black Dollar Store Tape to cover and that too , was slopped on..I went to work the next day and brought home the proper tool ( hand pump hydraulic press) and the proper size crimp splice and did the job correctly and used Marine Grade adhesive lined shrink tube NOT Cheap Made in China, garbage tape....Well correctly short of.... replacing the cable.

FYI any O/B or IN/B/ out drive that shuts down in gear will give off a grinding noise as the gears are still meshing under a no=load status the noise is caused by a no-load backlash from the gears not something to worry about, I'd suspect bad gas & or condensation in the old fuel for the eng stalling I had some similar issues at the end of last yr & most of this yr but it was intermittent swore it was a fuel issue the culprit in the end was a safety neutral switch that kept derating the eng. or would cause the eng to miss like crazy if you went over 2500rpm's i will post this later when I get a chance

J