Rudder rope replacement
- live2shift
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Bill Earnhardt
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I have installed pulleys close to the rudders to make it easier for the admiral to pull them up. Replaced the existing rudder lines with the same diameter sheet. Just tied the old and new sheets together with some electrical tape and pulled them through. All in all a 5 minute job for both rudders.
Installed a pulley for the daggerboard as well, but that still does not make it easier if you get stuck in the sand.
Installed a pulley for the daggerboard as well, but that still does not make it easier if you get stuck in the sand.
- c130king
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I did not realize the
came stock with a single line for the rudders. My PO mod'ed the rudders for 2 lines each. The pull-up line has been modified with a block for 2:1. Works great.
The pull-down line is seperate and runs through a hole in the top of the aft coaming (is that the right term?). There is a stopper knot in the line to keep it from running through the hole. When I release the pull-up line from the cleat the rudder will gravity fall. Then I pull on the pull-down line, the rudder then "clunks" into the full down position. I take the pull-down line and make one wrap around the cleat to hold it down. However, the tension is not too great so that if I was to hit something the rudders will overcome the tension and kick up.

Did not realize that this 2-line system was not stock. Never seen another
. Does anyone else have it setup this way? Seems to work fine...never had a problem...knock on wood...
Have read about the bungee mod, but I can't quite visualize how that works.
Jim
The pull-down line is seperate and runs through a hole in the top of the aft coaming (is that the right term?). There is a stopper knot in the line to keep it from running through the hole. When I release the pull-up line from the cleat the rudder will gravity fall. Then I pull on the pull-down line, the rudder then "clunks" into the full down position. I take the pull-down line and make one wrap around the cleat to hold it down. However, the tension is not too great so that if I was to hit something the rudders will overcome the tension and kick up.

Did not realize that this 2-line system was not stock. Never seen another
Have read about the bungee mod, but I can't quite visualize how that works.
Jim
- fishheadbarandgrill
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Re: Rudder rope replacement
I've reviewed this old post and don't see where anyone mentioned the size of the stock rudder line? I'd like to replace mine with the same diameter line but don't know what it should be. I don't want to go smaller because I like the grip a bigger line give me.
Thanks,
Bob
Thanks,
Bob
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Re: Rudder rope replacement
Mine was 3/8 inch Braided Dacron but I switched to 1/4 inch because I added two quick release cams (If rudders hit something the cams release line so no damage) and find rudders are easy to pull up without burns.
I find that cruiseing with the rudder lines on the cam saves me fiberglass repairs and bent Rudder brackets.
Dave
I find that cruiseing with the rudder lines on the cam saves me fiberglass repairs and bent Rudder brackets.
Dave
fishheadbarandgrill wrote:I've reviewed this old post and don't see where anyone mentioned the size of the stock rudder line? I'd like to replace mine with the same diameter line but don't know what it should be. I don't want to go smaller because I like the grip a bigger line give me.
Thanks,
Bob
- fishheadbarandgrill
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Re: Rudder rope replacement
Her is a link,
You need Port and starboard. They work great.
In winds over 20 knots I would just cleat the lines to the cleats unless you are in thin waters.
http://www.duckworksbbs.com/hardware/cl ... /index.htm
Dave
You need Port and starboard. They work great.
In winds over 20 knots I would just cleat the lines to the cleats unless you are in thin waters.
http://www.duckworksbbs.com/hardware/cl ... /index.htm
Dave
fishheadbarandgrill wrote:Thanks. I'm considering that same mod.
Bob
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Re: Rudder rope replacement
I'm another Dave that fitted the Cleats and they are a terrific safeguard. But I had to downsize the pull down rope to 6mm (1/4") to match the cleat size. You can also adjust the cleat's release point to suit your need.DaveB wrote:Her is a link,
You need Port and starboard. They work great.
In winds over 20 knots I would just cleat the lines to the cleats unless you are in thin waters.
http://www.duckworksbbs.com/hardware/cl ... /index.htm
Dave
Dave
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Re: Rudder rope replacement
Bob, (hopefully you will see this old post of yours again)fishheadbarandgrill wrote:I've reviewed this old post and don't see where anyone mentioned the size of the stock rudder line? I'd like to replace mine with the same diameter line but don't know what it should be. I don't want to go smaller because I like the grip a bigger line give me.
Thanks,
Bob
Did you replace your rudder line? I am about to replace mine. I bought 5/16 Sta-Set Polyester Braid. However I didn't get the job done today...couldn't figure out how to attach the new line to the old line so that I could pull the new line through as I pull out the old line.
Anyone got any hints on how to do that? I will take my heavy blue sailing thread and my big needle with me next weekend and try to "sew" the end of the old and new together.
Thanks.
Cheers,
Jim
Sailing on König
Sailing on König YouTube Channel
- fishheadbarandgrill
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Re: Rudder rope replacement
Jim,
Did the mod but didn't add the cleats. Use the same 5/16" line you have as a replacement. Answered your PM as well.
Bob
Did the mod but didn't add the cleats. Use the same 5/16" line you have as a replacement. Answered your PM as well.
Bob
