Air conditioner -full time hard wired Marine grade

[dvideohd]

Seems that there is a lot of overlapping need between lightweight RVers (or trailer boaters...) and our Macs......

A swamp cooler will work for my small trailer - and do so at low cost - for most of the Southwest. Won't do for the Mac... at least, usually...

But there ought to be a way to use seawater to help cool the interior in a similar fashion... Often the water temp is pretty low - like on the great lakes and of SoCal... So a swamp cooler variant should work there... It wouldn't work as well in Florida - but an adapted variant might work...

I know folks want an off the shelf solution - but some of us just have to tinker....

Economics from Trailers and small swamp coolers say that the most that people should spend is about $450... that would mean about $200-275 in materials...

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Another consideration is the difference between day and night - for use of solar in cooling, if one were of the mind.....

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Any thoughts or interest??

--jerry

[mastreb]

http://www.dometic.com/enus/Americas/US ... taid=80972

12VDC or 120AC Marine grade A/C kit that's the size of a car battery and puts out 3500 BTU/hr, which should be plenty for the interior of a Mac. This would fit fully under seats or under the galley, and since it's a kit you can put the various components where you want. I see it selling for about $1300 online.

[Divecoz]

Our Review
This small A/C 12V powered unit can fit under a v berth. Ideal for small cabin cruiser or sailboat for the occasional stay overnight. This small unit can make small boats comfortable where a traditional AC unit would be too big. 12V power and produces 3,500BTU. The unit is powered by 3- 100 amp AGM batterys and run time is approx. 8 hours between battery charges. The 3500 BTUs, 29-pound unit can run for 8 plus hours off 3 Group 27 batteries, or run on 115- or 230-volt 50 and 60 HZ AC from a genset or off shorepower via a battery charger.

Zephy Cuddy “ Brochure pdf file ”

http://www.dometic.com/enus/Americas/US ... taid=80972

12VDC or 120AC Marine grade A/C kit that's the size of a car battery and puts out 3500 BTU/hr, which should be plenty for the interior of a Mac. This would fit fully under seats or under the galley, and since it's a kit you can put the various components where you want. I see it selling for about $1300 online.

[mastreb]

Yeah, there is no A/C solution that's going to run off of Solar or batteries for any effective length of time. This would have to be run while you were operating a 50+hp motor or off of shore power. A/C is simply too energy intensive for any kind of low amperage application.

[Russ]

Yeah, there is no A/C solution that's going to run off of Solar or batteries for any effective length of time. This would have to be run while you were operating a 50+hp motor or off of shore power. A/C is simply too energy intensive for any kind of low amperage application.

Indeed.

From the link
Minimal DC draw (about 29 DC amps total)

I'd like to know who in their marketing department believes 29 amps is minimal.

[Divecoz]

You seem to keep missing the point.. I see no one here under the assumption that they can indefinitely run any A/C unit off solar and a battery bank, not on our boats.. Not Reasonably anyway.. We are all dealing with numerous variables..
#1. Unit draw
#2. Time we NEED to run the unit.
#3. how many batteries are in our bank
#4. What kinds of batteries incorporate the bank
#5. What size batteries are we using... thats a HUGE ONE!
#6. The reality ....... how much will we be actually using our outboards
#7. During our usage of the outboard what will it add,to the charging of the batteries..
Each of those 7 variables can be HUGE!
My Merc 50 4stk EFI BF produces about 10 = 12 amps at cruise. ( not all do . Some are better many are worse)I am changing out my 3 -72's batteries to AGM group 31 105's ( I am getting a deal on them)and I am in hopes of supplying a total of 80 watts of solar power.. Still a lot of variables.. However.. after living on the hook for over 5 weeks in SW Fla. I realize I used my motor every day some days for hours at a time a few days that was all I used .. ( the motor)... Will I be self sufficient 24/7 ? No... I also dont know if I will need my A/C every night ...or even for how long I'll need it on when I use it. I at least am looking to build the best system I can under the $$$ constraints I am personally establishing on this project..I dont even know for sure if I will save wattage consumption by installing a Marine 12V fridge and not using an inverter.. I can build a much better insulated/effient "cold box" than comes with any bottom end fridge..and maybe most Top Of The Line Units and I can build it for free out of what I have on hand, right now, in the garage..

Yeah, there is no A/C solution that's going to run off of Solar or batteries for any effective length of time. This would have to be run while you were operating a 50+hp motor or off of shore power. A/C is simply too energy intensive for any kind of low amperage application. When all is finally said and done I will live better with what I will have that what I have now..without breakimg the bank..
Thats why we are kicking this around............

[mastreb]

The unit is powered by 3- 100 amp AGM batterys and run time is approx. 8 hours between battery charges. The 3500 BTUs, 29-pound unit can run for 8 plus hours off 3 Group 27 batteries, or run on 115- or 230-volt 50 and 60 HZ AC from a genset or off shorepower via a battery charger.

I suppose I did miss the point. I thought the point of underlining the run-time and battery requirements in the review was to point out that it would be a lot of weight and expense to operate, and I was merely agreeing with what I thought your point was.

[Divecoz]

I guess you did mast .. Thats just the bench mark..thats all it is...a guide line .. goal post.. step up and kick the ball... what have you , got to offer the team..?
Run the dang thing less than 8 hrs and your ahead of the game already..
begin to look for what you can afford to recoup the loss..
Reduce the thermal loss if possible and on and on and on..
ALL I was showing was the Bench mark.. we all , already know its not practical to run it for more than a couple but maybe 3 or 4 days with a lot of work.. ingenuity and maybe $$$

[mdeane]

My simple and inexpensive solution to AC was mounting a Walmart 99$ window unit on the front deck.

Marc

[mastreb]

My simple and inexpensive solution to AC was mounting a Walmart 99$ window unit on the front deck.

I like the idea, but I'm guessing you have to remove it before you sail? Otherwise it would interfere with the jib, no? If you remove it, where to you store it?

[Divecoz]

I am surprised your getting much cooling in the main cabin with you choice on enclosure.. Just an idea and so as to clean up the aesthetics .. You could cheaply and easily, fabricate an enclosure that is cut and sew and fit to match the Units case. It would attach cleanly and neatly across the top and down the two sides and securely around the open hatch. I have 10 S.S. Snaps set into my deck around the hatch just for this purpose..You could use snaps as well on the unit itself to enable easy removal of the cover..
My Cruise Air , Vents the cold air out the bottom directly into the boat. Thats the primary disadvantage of a window unit.. Have you installed "rubber" vibration feet on the bottom of the case/housing? I assume your power plug attaches inside the boat?

[mdeane]

When sailing I remove the AC unit. It's lowered through the front hatch and stored in the V-berth. We get enough cooling to keep the cabin temp in the 70's with the external temp above 95 deg. We use a small fan AC/DC inside to help circulate the cool air in the cabin. I like the SS Snap with fitted enclosure idea. Getting rid of the bungie cords that hold down the enclosure would sure clean it up. I attached a high density foam strip to the bottom of the AC unit which adjusted the height and provides vibration damping. Power cord is run though the hatch inside to a shore power AC receptacle.

[Divecoz]

I am amazed you found a window unit that drops thru such a small hatch .. BTW I see your slip mate on the starboard side, has a Cruise Air..
Well this thread as are many , was no less than informative and a chance to bounce both good and bad ideas around..
Fair Winds Good sailing ..

[mdeane]

Agreed, very informative, work has begun on a new tailored enclosure with snaps.

Thanks

Marc

[Divecoz]

Good For You Bud... In The end she'll look a LOT nicer and it will prove to be even more, effient.. Due to the design of my unit..a one piece bungee is used to hold the cloth enclosure tight in place around the housing ( you really dont have that option IMHO ) My S.S. snaps are all , only, in the deck and holding the skirt only.. JSYK NOT all S.S. snaps are the same ! Hummm I found this out when just using what I had on hand .. Some were really good others in my box? ( no doubt not bought at W.M. ) were crap! Yep I got to spend time replacing them. I had to spend precious sailing and beer drinking time trying to remove the rust stains too!!

Agreed, very informative, work has begun on a new tailored enclosure with snaps.

Thanks

Marc