rivets versus screws in mast/boom

[c130king]

And for those, like me, that are NOT exactly "Mr. Fix-it"...here are some short YouTube videos I found that show how Pop Rivets work.

DSN Animations: What is a Pop Rivet?

Pop Rivet Removal & Installation

Pop Rivet Tool

After watching the second one I think I may remove the rivets attaching my gooseneck on the mast...it is loose and maybe needs to be "re-riveted".

Cheers,
Jim

[parrothead]

A rivet tool is something that you should only need to purchase once, if you get a good one. Here's my recommended "best buy" -- handles 4 sizes of rivets, nice grippy handle, reaches into tight spaces.
http://www.amazon.com/Arrow-RH200-Faste ... B00004Z2JG

[c130king]

A rivet tool is something that you should only need to purchase once, if you get a good one. Here's my recommended "best buy" -- handles 4 sizes of rivets, nice grippy handle, reaches into tight spaces.
http://www.amazon.com/Arrow-RH200-Faste ... B00004Z2JG

Doug,

Thanks. What size and length of rivets? 3/16" I think I saw somwhere. Not sure what length.

Cheers,
Jim

[parrothead]

Hi Jim,

All of the rivets I currently have on hand are 3/16". The listed rivet size is actually the size drill you should use to make the holes.

Grip length will depend on the combined thickness of the 2 layers of material you are going to rivet together. The Mac mast and boom extrusions are about 1/8", so add that to the thickness of the other item, such as the gooseneck fitting. Probably 1/4" grip rivets will be right for that application.

If you do have existing rivets that have become loose, they are easy to drill out and replace.

Have fun
Doug

[Highlander]

I only use SS Rivets 3/16" Dia. length varies on different jobs loose SS rivets in the goose kneck are easily drilled out by just drilling off the rivet head with say a 5/16" drill bit then using a punch & a hammer knock the rest of it through the mast or boom
I'd never use Alum rivets on anything that will be taking any form of pulling stress because they can shear off too easily I use two 6" tubes on the handles of my rivet gun as extensions to give me more pulling power hands are not as strong as they used to be !
here is my 66" cabin roof mounted genny track
http://i844.photobucket.com/albums/ab1/ ... 010010.jpg

I drilled out all the holes in these backing plates & then tapped the threads into them was a pita but you could lift the boat them
http://i844.photobucket.com/albums/ab1/ ... 010018.jpg
I done the same thing with my mast & boom when I installed my garhauer ridgid vang I made two backing plates 1" x 1/4" X 17" long I beleive then tapped out the holes so the boom is re-enforced at the point

J

[Divecoz]

Jon ....... whats the white disc in link #1? Whats it for whats it do?

[Highlander]

Hi Rich.

Good eye these keep my main sail from chaffing on my shrouds along with my spreader boots on my upper & lower spreaders in this pic you can see them between my lower & upper spreaders the lower ones are approx 30" above the lower spreaders the top ones are about 36" below the upper spreaders you'll notice I have the white vinyl split shroud covers on the shrouds between them also
http://i844.photobucket.com/albums/ab1/ ... 010002.jpg

J

[RobertB]

Thoughts on Rivets vs screws:

Rivets less likely to come loose like the factory screws did on the halyard block at the base of my mast. Locktite may help.

Screws should have more shear strengh than commonly available rivets. Personally, I will not use common aluminium rivets even though they eliminate the dissimilar metals issue since they are relatively weak. Will not use hardware store steel rivets since they will rust. Stainless steel is probably good choice.

Monel while having good strength is too dissimilar on the galvanic scale to use with aluminium. Stainless steel is only half as bad.

If rivets are not appropriate (strength or dissasembly), I am likely to use a stainless sheet metal screw if not real critical or a stainless steel machine screw with tapped threads for a better connection - ideally both using Locktite.

[fishheadbarandgrill]

Are the factory rivets SS or Aluminum on the gooseneck? Mine are getting lose as well.

Bob

[Phil M]

Thoughts on Rivets vs screws:

Rivets less likely to come loose like the factory screws did on the halyard block at the base of my mast. Locktite may help.

Screws should have more shear strengh than commonly available rivets. Personally, I will not use common aluminium rivets even though they eliminate the dissimilar metals issue since they are relatively weak.

...

I am trying to imagine a situation when aluminium rivets would not hold this eye strap:




or better yet, if adhesion to the mast was a concern, this eyestrap


I would think other hardware would fail before the aluminium rivets would fail.

Phil M

[RobertB]

Looking at the hardware pictured, you probably would not be using standard aluminium rivets since the fastener holes are countesunk. I would not use standard rivets since the head would likely deform in the countersink and everything loosen up over time - then fail. Specialty rivets (countersunk heads) are available but not at the hardware store (at least where I shop). Such rivets may have better strength.

[DaveB]

I agree, if headliner prevents tru bolt than use a hole saw and cut thru the liner and cover the hole with a plastic plug supplied by BWY.
Anything attached to the interior for a X I would use Rivits.

Dave

Looking at the hardware pictured, you probably would not be using standard aluminium rivets since the fastener holes are countesunk. I would not use standard rivets since the head would likely deform in the countersink and everything loosen up over time - then fail. Specialty rivets (countersunk heads) are available but not at the hardware store (at least where I shop). Such rivets may have better strength.

[Highlander]

Thoughts on Rivets vs screws:

Rivets less likely to come loose like the factory screws did on the halyard block at the base of my mast. Locktite may help.

Screws should have more shear strengh than commonly available rivets. Personally, I will not use common aluminium rivets even though they eliminate the dissimilar metals issue since they are relatively weak.

...

I am trying to imagine a situation when aluminium rivets would not hold this eye strap:




or better yet, if adhesion to the mast was a concern, this eyestrap


I would think other hardware would fail before the aluminium rivets would fail.

Phil M

It's called Shock loading & will happen in high wind conditions or High gusts & Alum. Rivets will shear-off

J

[c130king]

The new question is "Rivet Size".

I was in Home Depot looking at Rivet Guns and rivets. They have aluminum rivets 1/8, 3/16, and 5/16...and they come in short, medium and long lengths.

If the plan is to attach small eye straps to the boom what size and lenght rivets would be most appropriate?

Based on what I have read it sounds like SS rivets is the best choice to re-attach the gooseneck (mine is loose) and to attach the new mast hound for my spinnaker. What size/length SS rivet is recommended for these applications?

HD only seemed to have SS rivets in a multi-pack and they were all pretty small.

Thanks,
Jim

[raycarlson]

if you want high quality blind rivets go to an aviation fastner website such as aircraft spruce. cherry textron indtrys, and browse their selection of cherry max blind fastners.you can get alum,ss,monel,titan or alumm with ss shank, all sorts off combo's. and you can pull up to 3/16 with a little home depot puller.there's a world of difference in quality between cherry's and home depot pop rivets.