Questions about 26X trailer brakes and heating problem
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ChrisNorton
- Engineer
- Posts: 132
- Joined: Fri Mar 11, 2005 6:54 am
Questions about 26X trailer brakes and heating problem
Hi all,
Love the site and the group. Hoping someone can help a less than mechanical 1999 26X owner. When trailering my X on the highway, I have been getting unusually hot temperatures transfering to the wheel fenders. They get so hot rain drops sizzle on the fenders after 50 miles on the highway. The trailer is a 1999 and has original everything. I bought the boat and trailer two years ago and have only used it twice (the past owner only used it twice a year as well.) I am worried about what is causing the heating and suspect the brakes. I don't have the ability to change the brakes myself so I want to bring it to my local garage but they need to know what parts to use and don't have a clue about what is causing the heating. The guy who delivered the boat to me two years ago also experienced this problem and told me he had to loosen something on the highway but I am still experiencing the same problem.
So, any ideas on what is causing the heating?
And, any suggestions on what I should tell my garage to fix. If it is brakes, what parts do I need and where can I get them? Should I do something with the wheel bearings besides grease them?
Thanks for any help,
Chris Norton
'99 26x Chameleon
Love the site and the group. Hoping someone can help a less than mechanical 1999 26X owner. When trailering my X on the highway, I have been getting unusually hot temperatures transfering to the wheel fenders. They get so hot rain drops sizzle on the fenders after 50 miles on the highway. The trailer is a 1999 and has original everything. I bought the boat and trailer two years ago and have only used it twice (the past owner only used it twice a year as well.) I am worried about what is causing the heating and suspect the brakes. I don't have the ability to change the brakes myself so I want to bring it to my local garage but they need to know what parts to use and don't have a clue about what is causing the heating. The guy who delivered the boat to me two years ago also experienced this problem and told me he had to loosen something on the highway but I am still experiencing the same problem.
So, any ideas on what is causing the heating?
And, any suggestions on what I should tell my garage to fix. If it is brakes, what parts do I need and where can I get them? Should I do something with the wheel bearings besides grease them?
Thanks for any help,
Chris Norton
'99 26x Chameleon
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jklightner
- Engineer
- Posts: 142
- Joined: Fri Jul 09, 2004 1:49 pm
- Location: Tacoma, WA
heating
If it's a 99 and never been touched, I would suspect the bearings and races are shot. I just replaced mine on my 99 trailer. I remove, clean and repack the bearings annually. Also the seals in the rear will need to be replaced. But your going to have to take the drums off to get to the bearings and shoes to inspect them anyway. And if you don't have one, now would be a good time to add Bearing Buddies to them. They are standard trailer parts, and there was a thread discussing them here before. I don't recall the numbers offhand. If your not mechanically inclined, look up some trailer sales and service places near you. I think they would be a better option than a car repair place.
- SPC Paul
- Engineer
- Posts: 101
- Joined: Wed Feb 11, 2004 6:20 am
- Sailboat: MacGregor 26S
- Location: Norway, MI "Bandit"
There are a couple of things that could be causing excess heat. Wheel bearings and brakes are the first that come to my mind. However, I doubt that wheel bearings could generate that much heat (rain drops sizzling on fenders? Yikes) without seizing up.
Now may be a good time to repack those bearings with grease. It sounds like it could be possible that your bearings have never been repacked. I've always been told that trailer wheel bearings (especially boat trailers) should be repacked annually. That's usually my first spring project. (Although this will be the first time on MY boat.)
Others on this board are probably more knowledgeable than I in this matter, though. Just my two cents.
Jared
Now may be a good time to repack those bearings with grease. It sounds like it could be possible that your bearings have never been repacked. I've always been told that trailer wheel bearings (especially boat trailers) should be repacked annually. That's usually my first spring project. (Although this will be the first time on MY boat.)
Others on this board are probably more knowledgeable than I in this matter, though. Just my two cents.
Jared
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James V
- Admiral
- Posts: 1705
- Joined: Sat Jan 22, 2005 9:33 am
- Sailboat: MacGregor 26M
- Location: Key West, Fl USA, 26M 06, Merc 50hp BF "LYNX"
Check the underside of the fenders for tire marks. Have somebody follow you on a bumpy road. Does the tires hit the fenders?
Check the fenders to see if they are level. I have seen people stand on them loading the boat resulting in permenant bending.
Check your spacing from the wheels to the trailer. It is possible that the axle has shifted.
When all else fails, take it to a good trailer repair shop and have them inspect it.
One time I had a trailer spring brake and the tire was rubbing the fender.
The trailer springs may be bad or the wrong type.
In salt water, it is best to put fresh grease in the bearings after every launching as water will get into the bearings.
Check the fenders to see if they are level. I have seen people stand on them loading the boat resulting in permenant bending.
Check your spacing from the wheels to the trailer. It is possible that the axle has shifted.
When all else fails, take it to a good trailer repair shop and have them inspect it.
One time I had a trailer spring brake and the tire was rubbing the fender.
The trailer springs may be bad or the wrong type.
In salt water, it is best to put fresh grease in the bearings after every launching as water will get into the bearings.
Hot trailer brakes
You may have a problem with the shoes not releasing from the drums. I had an overheatig problem that was caused by the surge master cylinder not releasing the pressure after backing up. The quick and dirty, not the safest( but late at night, it saved alot of highway shoulder-time), is to release the pressure by loosening the line fitting directly behind the master cylinder. Or if they've seen very little use, the wheel cylinders, springs etc may be rusted to the point of not functioning. You can buy complete brake assemblies with free backing shoes and upgraded components than you can piece-mealing the job
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waternwaves
- Admiral
- Posts: 1499
- Joined: Wed Oct 13, 2004 8:18 pm
- Location: X less in North Puget Sound -have to sail other boats for a while
I will preface this entire comment with..... "for satirical and entertainment purposes only. not for internal consumption. topical use only. Discontinue use if rash develops or humor or the acute lack therof is present"
Go to to NAPA,
Buy one of those remote IR viewers that have a small laser in them along with an IR photodetector, and temp readout display..... start checking surfaces after short drives...
but why bother..
moving parts together generate heat.....
the heat has to be coming from those moving points that are in contact...bearings/races, springs shackles (now that is a scary thought) or rubbing tires on fenders. (IF this is the case there is a very shiny surface inside that fender......and probably very very smooth by now, surrounded by a dark black smear.. or heaven forbid. direct air heating from drag, in chich case I have a NASCAR track adminstrator on the line with some pertinaent questions about your SSSSSSSSSSSStock tow vehicle., and the guys at mojave and Wendover and bonneville salt flats are ready for your next timed mile attempts.
Go to to NAPA,
Buy one of those remote IR viewers that have a small laser in them along with an IR photodetector, and temp readout display..... start checking surfaces after short drives...
but why bother..
moving parts together generate heat.....
the heat has to be coming from those moving points that are in contact...bearings/races, springs shackles (now that is a scary thought) or rubbing tires on fenders. (IF this is the case there is a very shiny surface inside that fender......and probably very very smooth by now, surrounded by a dark black smear.. or heaven forbid. direct air heating from drag, in chich case I have a NASCAR track adminstrator on the line with some pertinaent questions about your SSSSSSSSSSSStock tow vehicle., and the guys at mojave and Wendover and bonneville salt flats are ready for your next timed mile attempts.
- Don T
- Admiral
- Posts: 1084
- Joined: Fri Jan 02, 2004 7:13 pm
- Sailboat: MacGregor 26X
- Location: 95 2600 "SS OTTER" - Portland OR - Tohatsu 50 - Hull#64 (May 95)
Hello:
I'll stick my neck out here.
I don't believe any problem with the bearings or brakes will make the fenders that hot. Tires would have to be rubbing on the underside. Sometimes the fenders bend down from being stood on. More than likely the shackles / pivot bolts are rusted and the springs can not push the trailer back up to ride height. I would however, take the opportunity to have the brakes & bearings checked out, for peace of mind.
As opposed to an on the road, piece of mind.
I'll stick my neck out here.
I don't believe any problem with the bearings or brakes will make the fenders that hot. Tires would have to be rubbing on the underside. Sometimes the fenders bend down from being stood on. More than likely the shackles / pivot bolts are rusted and the springs can not push the trailer back up to ride height. I would however, take the opportunity to have the brakes & bearings checked out, for peace of mind.
As opposed to an on the road, piece of mind.
- Chip Hindes
- Admiral
- Posts: 2166
- Joined: Mon Jan 05, 2004 6:13 am
- Location: West Sand Lake, NY '01X, "Nextboat" 50HP Tohatsu
I would suspect the bearings and races are shot.
Wheel bearings and brakes are the first that come to my mind.
Etcetera.You may have a problem with the shoes not releasing from the drums.
None of these can make the fenders hot. Heat needs a conduction path, and there is none between any of these and the fenders.
Other than direct heating from sunlight, the only possibility is friction on the fenders from the tires hitting them.
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ChrisNorton
- Engineer
- Posts: 132
- Joined: Fri Mar 11, 2005 6:54 am
Thanks much to all
That is great information from everyone (and humor is always good.) The tires are still the stock tires that came with the trailer. I did check the underside and there doesn't seem to be any wheel rubbing marks. The guy who delivered the boat to me said he had to loosen the brakes so maybe the shoes are sticking and rubbing causing the heating. If the bearings were burning out wouldn't I have smelled that? I did whif around when I discovered the heat and couldn't smell anything.
I am going to take it to a trailer repair place and have them check it out. The only thing that frightens me is that when I called the guy, all he wanted to talk about was replacing the single axle for a double which I can't afford and considering I tow the boat twice a year, don't think that's really necessary. He insisted the boat was too big for one axle (even though he never heard of a Macgregor). I told him I've read about many people adding a second axle but I've heard equally from people who tow it across country with one axle (and the trailer was made by the manufacturer no less.)
Also, I see there is a trailing board so I guess I should have only posted there (sorry about that.)
Thanks to all,
Chris
'99 26X Chameleon
I am going to take it to a trailer repair place and have them check it out. The only thing that frightens me is that when I called the guy, all he wanted to talk about was replacing the single axle for a double which I can't afford and considering I tow the boat twice a year, don't think that's really necessary. He insisted the boat was too big for one axle (even though he never heard of a Macgregor). I told him I've read about many people adding a second axle but I've heard equally from people who tow it across country with one axle (and the trailer was made by the manufacturer no less.)
Also, I see there is a trailing board so I guess I should have only posted there (sorry about that.)
Thanks to all,
Chris
'99 26X Chameleon
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Bill at BOATS 4 SAIL
- Admiral
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- Sailboat: MacGregor 26D
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- Sloop John B
- Captain
- Posts: 871
- Joined: Sat Jan 03, 2004 2:45 am
- Sailboat: MacGregor 26X
- Location: Florida 'Big Bend'. 02x Yamaha T50
So, Chris, I think you have everyone stumped. If the tire ain't rubbing, how does all that heat get conducted up to the fender.
Take her down the road with your football helmet on and feel the 'frame' and brackets that hold the fender.
Let us know what had happened after you get it fixed. What these trailer guys 'think' is useless.
Take her down the road with your football helmet on and feel the 'frame' and brackets that hold the fender.
Let us know what had happened after you get it fixed. What these trailer guys 'think' is useless.
- baldbaby2000
- Admiral
- Posts: 1382
- Joined: Sun Mar 28, 2004 8:41 am
- Location: Rapid City, SD, 2005 26M, 40hp Tohatsu
- Contact:
This is proabably a long shot but..... The manual on my surge brakes says not to use downshifting to slow down when going down hills. Also don't apply steady braking. Alternate between brake on and brake off. Otherwise the trailer will always be "pushing" the vehicle and always engaging the surge brakes possibly causing overheating.
Of course if your driving flat this doesn't apply.
BB
Of course if your driving flat this doesn't apply.
BB
- Chip Hindes
- Admiral
- Posts: 2166
- Joined: Mon Jan 05, 2004 6:13 am
- Location: West Sand Lake, NY '01X, "Nextboat" 50HP Tohatsu
