New trailer in, what to do?

[vitger]

I am thrilled that I got a smoking deal on a virtually unused 2009 Karavan B4400 tandem axle trailer with four surge disc brakes.
A few questions: it has two 12 feet by 5 inch bunks running longitudinally. The V cradle to the end of bunks is a good 21 feet. I could move the V cradle forward another 1 and a half feet, if needed. The question is would I want the boat more forward or aft on the trailer? Is it a matter of achieving manufacturer recommended tongue weight?

I also read about crossbunks (recommended by Macgregor) versus longitudinal ones. I am not very handy, so would prefer not doing too many mods to it if I can get away with it. I was thinking of adding one more longitudinal running bunk under the kiel to give more support to the water ballast tank and centerboard. Would that suffice or is it an overkill?

Another issue is the four versus five prong flat electric connector: the enscription on the trailer says you cannot back up, unless you have a five prong connector, whereas I seem to have no problem backing up with the trailer's five prong plugged in to my van's four prong receiver. Should I still change the latter to a five prong?

Will post pictures momentarily.

Thanks in advance for you valuable input!

Balazs

[RobertB]

I seem to have no problem backing up with the trailer's five prong plugged in to my van's four prong receiver

Interesting - backing up should activate the surge brakes. Are you sure the brakes are working or do you have the lockout key installed?

[vitger]

Hmmm ... lockout key... what is that?

[vitger]

Yes, I am positive the brakes are workig, because wth my other van , which has a round connector, ( I had to use a converter with) the trailer wheels did lockout on a backup attempt. Go figure...

[Terry]

Balaz;
The lockout key is just a short small diameter cylindrical pin on my trailer. On yours it may be more like a coin. When the surge brakes engage the trailer surges forward and pushes an actuator on the tongue which pushes hydraulic brake fluid into the brake calipers. To lock out my brakes for reverse I push a pin shaped metal piece through the hole on the side of the toungue when it lines up with the hole on the actuator part. This prevents the actuator from moving to activate the brakes. With a four pin plug this is how it works. With a five pin I am guessing that the fifth pin is an electric lock out mechanism. I have a freind with a four to five and he just inserts a coin shaped piece of metal in that hole along the tongue to stop the actuator from engaging when in reverse. Somehow you have to have a means of locking out the actuator wether it be a five pin electric lockout or a four pin with a pin key for lock out in order to back up the trailer.

[WASP18]

You may want to check whether the fifth prong connects to a solenoid which ( I read somewhere recently) deactivates the surge system when backing up. How much did you pay for the trailer? I'll be in the market for one soon.

[Russ]

The 5th wire is connected to the backup lights. This is also supposed to disable the brakes while backing up (pushing on the surge solenoid).

It may not be connected to anything or it may be connected correctly and you don't have enough weight/pressure to activate the brakes.

Short answer, if it's connected to the brakes, I'd wire your connector to the backup lights and 5th wire.

[vitger]

Yes, it all makes sense. My oter van also could not back up further than a few feet, the brakes kicked in. I'll have to look into your recommendations. Thank you all.

I paid $1000 (after a failed Ebay auction I lowballed the seller), which is a smoking deal here in Canada, but had additional expenses, namely, shipping it from Kentucky to the border near Spokane Wa ($1300), then driving down, sleeping in a campground and importing it the next day. I made it into a nice little family getaway with the kids, they had a blast tenting and eating smores. Plus importation and inspection fees, overall will be around 2500$ when all said and done, which is still great considering the prices here. This is practically a brand new trailer.

I just have to figure out how and what I want to do with the bunks...

[cptron]

On my trailer the fifth wire is wired to the backup lights and deactivates the brakes when they come on. I just turn the 5 plug around and insert the last 3 into the 4 prong on the vehicle and turn the lights on. this will deactivate the brakes and allows you to back up.
Just don't want to forget and leave the lights on when you are out or you could have another problem.
Hope this helps.

[Tomfoolery]

I wired my backup solenoid into the trailer running lights using an insulated spade connector pair. If I need it, I just plug it in and put the parking lights on. Of course, forgetting about it and driving with the lights on will disable the brakes, or worse, lock them on if the coupler was compressed when the lights went on. I can also use a mechanical pin to physically lock out the brakes, but by using the lights, I don't have to get out of the car, which is useful when moving the boat and I have to block traffic to back it into the driveway.

If the car wasn't a lease, I'd just wire an extra lead into the vehicle's backup light system.

[vitger]

Any comments about the bunks (cross versus longitudinal), boat more forward of aft?

Thanks!

[RobertB]

Bunk orientation/location - suggest searching the site as this has been the subject of discussion in the past.

One item that stands out in my memory is that the Mac trailer is designed to support the boat hull at points that can take the load.

Personally, I moved my support point when I added an additional axle (now support 16 inches fore and aft of the point) - now wondering if I should examine what I did a bit closer. I may add a wide bunk fore and aft between the centers of the axles.

[DaveB]

If you can post pictures. My Tandem trailer has the 12 ft. logitude 3x 10 inch stringers and 2x6 on the flat forward and is adjustable. I have a 3inch wide 3/8 inch thick plate that supports the fender and just made up a block (4 -3/4" x 12 inch plywood glued,screwed and fiberglassed) that will be bolted to that bar on both sides to allow the boat centered on trailer with no effort. I have the plastic pipe guides but they are aft and boat is less beam there so trying to center the boat will now be automatic.
I have the 8'-6 inch trailer width, one would have to measure between boat and fender for thickness of wood.
Dave

Any comments about the bunks (cross versus longitudinal), boat more forward of aft?

Thanks!

[Grinnell]

If you will ever use a travel-lift, where your boat is suspended from slings for lifting on or off your trailer, it is much easier with the cross-wise bunks.

Richard

[vitger]

Grinnel, that is probably a good point. Although I am not planning to sling it anytime soon, it's been very easy to use on any ramp that I had encountered so far.
So far what I am gathering is to try to provide support where the factory crossbunks are, because they are there for a reason. Will try to post some pics tomorrow. Thanks.