Securing Raised Mast Question on X

[rpasca02]

Hey Everyone,

Because I have a jib roller, I can't use the mast raising system. I did get a Mast Raising Poll with 3x8" x 4 1/2" bolt included on it when I purchased. My Mast is currently secured to the front of my boat with another 3x8" x 4 1/2" bolt. I was going to raise it today but thought I would ask this first...

The sheet metal mast base only seems to have one hole towards the stern of the boat which is used with the bolts as a pivot point. Once raised do I put in this second 3x8" bolt on the forward hole to act as a "stop" to keep the mast from tipping if for example the forestay or in this case jib roller assembly failed? It seems strange to me they made the portion on the deck to have two holes but only one hole available to act a a pivot then structural point Thanks for any help.

[RobertB]

Never try to add a mechanical restraint to the mast pivot (the second bolt) as this will tear up your mast base and tabernacle if the forward support fails (see post from last summer on this - very long post with lots of pictures).

Suggest changing out the bolt at the base of the jib for a clevis pin - BWY has a large head one that works well. Also, sounds like you may need a manual - see the resources tab on this site. Should show you how to use the mast raising system.

[K9Kampers]

rpasca-

Please explain why you think you can't use the mast raising system with a roller furler. It works fine for me.

The forward holes of the mast hinge on deck are where the mast raising pole attaches with bolt or clevis pin.

Will include pics when my smarter-than-me phone connects with my smater-than-me computer...

[rpasca02]

Ok, I think I understand. The running configuration of the mast is only with ONE large bolt at the base. The forestay can take a significant load like 2000 pounds but if there is a failure the mast will pivot aft and land where it lands.

I've read the manual a few times but it doesn't say explicitly never put a second bolt in the forward bolt holes - the mast is designed to pivot and fall aft on forward support failure.

In terms of a mast raising system on the X along with a roller system - good to hear people do it, but I can't visualize. My roller assembly is rigid. So I have someone walk the roller base forward as I use the winch to raise the mast with the roller secured to the mast? Seems easier at that point just to push up the mast with a person aft and someone pull on the roller and walk it forward. The mast raising system seemed to be more for a simple forestay and single handed raising.

Thank you for your insight on these things.

[dlandersson]

I have a roller furler for my Genoa and I have the mast raising system.

Having said that, it's simpler to simply walk the mast up if you have a person helping.

Hey Everyone,

Because I have a jib roller, I can't use the mast raising system. I did get a Mast Raising Poll with 3x8" x 4 1/2" bolt included on it when I purchased. My Mast is currently secured to the front of my boat with another 3x8" x 4 1/2" bolt. I was going to raise it today but thought I would ask this first...

The sheet metal mast base only seems to have one hole towards the stern of the boat which is used with the bolts as a pivot point. Once raised do I put in this second 3x8" bolt on the forward hole to act as a "stop" to keep the mast from tipping if for example the forestay or in this case jib roller assembly failed? It seems strange to me they made the portion on the deck to have two holes but only one hole available to act a a pivot then structural point Thanks for any help.

[K9Kampers]

You are right in that two people can walk the mast up without the mast raising kit. I've done it that way a few times by myself, but it is a strain on certain body parts. I solo alot, so setting up I prefer the M-R-K. Most Mac 's have the CDI Flexible Furler that has a flexible luff extrusion, as shown in the bottom pic.

[rpasca02]

Great pictures. So you keep the Pulley assembly for the Jib halyard on the mast in addition to the connected top of the roller assembly? Do you then pull through the jib halyard after raising or do you secure to the front of your boat?

[K9Kampers]

After raising the mast, the halyard is disconnected from the M-R-K and secured at the reefing hook on the mast. At anchor, I use that halyard to hoist the solar shower. These pics show a line secured to a bow cleat. I'm working on the furler drum, so the M-R-K is under load to keep the mast up - secured at aft cleat. With the main halyard, I've raised a safety line around the mast to just under the spreaders, and secured to bow cleat.

[Erik Hardtle]

I modified by 26X raising system to use a winch like the 26M. It is much easier with a roller furler... in fact I now have two roller furled jibs I raise now.



Here is a you tube video of me raising my mast:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C5i0nLon1aA

Click on the world Icon to go to my boat website for more info and mods.

[Whipsyjac]

I've only had my boat on the water once but I've had the mast up and down several times. One suggestion from the manual is to use the jib halyard connected to the pulpit to help raise and steady the mast until the clevis pin on the furler is in. A previous owner has added a halyard/topping lift/flag line so I just leave the jib halyard connected(not alot of windage) until I lower the mast again. If my furler or forestay should fail the halyard would probably keep the mast from falling. Yes the furler drum needs to be attended to while raising/lowering but luckily last week there were 3 of us and it made for very easy work. Unfortunately the easy work was removing the mast at the dock so the Marina could take my boat to a repair facility down the road since we had no compression on #1 cylinder. We took a ferry home

[Tomfoolery]

It seems strange to me they made the portion on the deck to have two holes but only one hole available to act a a pivot then structural point.

The leverage is far too great to support the mast with that tabernacle, even if it could be pinned in place. It's just a place to hinge the mast for stepping, with the extra hole just for the gin pole.

I use my standard gin pole with a roller furler as a matter of routine. Several folks here suggested strapping or otherwise supporting the furler end at the top of the gin pole, which really does make it much easier to deal with single-handed. Use the long pin with the big head from BWY at the stem fitting, and crank down a bit on the gin pole rigging to make it easier to make the pin. Leave the backstay disconnected, or at least very slack, when making the forestay pin, then snug it after the forestay is secured. The shrouds will keep the mast from falling forward, so no worries there.

I got my spinnaker halyard wrapped up in the jib yesterday when I slackened it a little to put a headboard shackle on it, then put it back onto the bow rail. Forgot to snug it back up, and couldn't roll the jib up all the way as a result, on a windy day. <doh!> Do make sure that if you put a halyard to the bow rail, as a backup to the forestay or otherwise, that it won't rub against the jib/genoa and end up fouling the furler function.

[Catigale]

On an if your backstay is limiting your mast forward position your side shrouds are way too loose, dangerously so.


On edit...don't know what I was thinking here....there is an obviously a correct backstay length which will take tension at the correct shroud tension..

[Tomfoolery]

My shrouds are actually quite tight. I had it out in some good wind yesterday, heeled to 30 degrees in gusts with full main and jib, and the lee shrouds were just a little relaxed, but not what I'd call loose or slack by any stretch. I do find it easier to make the forestay pin while cranking on the gin pole rigging without the backstay, though. I think the difference is that I don't have to crank down as hard, using the winch. I can do it by hand without the backstay to fight along with the shrouds.