Mast Wiring?

[Steve K]

This may have been answered before, but can't find it.
Think I know the answer, just need clarification.

Okay, in the mast, there will be wiring for the steaming light, anchor light and foredeck light.
Do I need a hot and ground for each light Or can I run the three (hot) lines from my switches (on/off for each light) and just run a common ground, to all three lights

Thanks and
Best Breezes,
Steve K.
Mac 26D "Three Sheets"

[baldbaby2000]

As long as the wire gauge is sized properly for the total load there should be no issue; however, having a pair for each light might avoid confusion if one is trying to troubleshoot or figure out how it's wired.

[Highlander]

Run seperate wire for each light but u can use a common ground for all , as u will want to have each one on it's own switch

J

[Steve K]

Thanks
Was pretty sure this was okay, but wanted to check with some of you.
Yes, each light will have an independent switch And actually, they likely would only be used one at a time.

BB,
SK

[Russ]

One hot for each and a common ground will be fine. Be creative and use the mast as a common ground and save a wire.

While you're at it, change them all to energy sipping LEDs and you'll be glad you did. Especially the anchor light that can consume a lot of power using standard bulbs ovrnight.

[Russ]

Be really creative and share 2 wires and LEDs between anchor and steaming light. Reverse the polarity and the opposite light comes one. Works great on our boat. I kept the original 2 wires.

[Hamin' X]

As has been discussed before, do not use the mast as a common ground. This puts a direct path to the zinc anodes on the motor and a better path for attracting lightening, but not directing it to ground. The ground wire will melt and the excess charge will get to ground any way it can; usually expensively. all fixtures on the mast should be isolated from the mast. I know there are naysayers that will comment on this, but facts is facts. Lightening does not always strike the tallest object, just the one with the most positive ions streaming up from it. The ground wire will give a better path for these ions coming from the water.

Common ground wire run to all three appliances is fine, as long as it is heavy enough to carry the current of all three. Just because you don't intend to use them at the same time, doesn't mean the the switches will not get flipped on together by a passenger. this might happen in the daylight and you won't know until dark and probably stormy.

~Rich

[hschumac]

I am in a similar setup as SK. With ground and all, can someone lay out how they did it? I have an existing deck plug with two prongs. Not seeing how two positive leads from masthead and anchor light plus a ground can work with a two prong (do they make 4 prong?). I have a double pole switch, am I just misunderstanding how that will work with all of us?

[Catigale]

The secret is to put diodes in the wires so that the can serve two functions depending on the voltage applied.

I'll find the circuit diagram and parts list as reference or you can search if you can't wait....

[chipveres]

Backing up what Hammin' X said, electrolytic corrosion is a second good reason not to use the mast as a DC conductor. Where you make the connection, you will likely have a copper connector under a stainless steel bolt touching an aluminum mast. In salt air, this will corrode faster than you can possibly believe.

I will try to describe the setup for lighting two lamps individually on two wires. First you need a double-pole, double-throw switch with a center off position. You wire it as a reverser. Say the wires going up the mast are red and black. In one switch position, the red wire is positive and the black wire is negative. In the opposite switch position, the black wire is positive and the red wire is negative. A diode is a one-way valve for electricity. Its connections are called anode and cathode. The wire with the stripe near it is the cathode. The diode conducts when positive voltage is on its anode. So you wire one lamp red-anode-cathode-lamp-black. You wire the other lamp black-anode-cathode-lamp-red.

I strongly suggest you try this on your workbench to make sure you have everything working before you go to the boat.

Chip
S/V Macaroon
Dania, FL

[Hamin' X]

Of course, if you use LED lights, you do not need the diodes, as they are the diodes. Simply reverse the wiring on one fixture and you are done. This will only work for two lights.

~Rich

[baldbaby2000]

I used a single pair for my bow pulpit horn and the bow light by reversing polarity with a relay for the horn and blocking the horn current with a diode for the light.

[Steve K]

My deck plug is shot, so I planned on buying a 4 pole plug/socket to replace it.

On my X boat I had a double throw switch setup for anchor light and running light. It worked well, except the switch was at the base of the mast (yes waterproof) and the head sheets would catch on it sometimes. Didn't have a deck light on it.

Thing is.... I have a crap load of spst (or is it stsp) switches, so I figured I'd just use them. (very high quality aircraft stuff left by my late father).

I'll make sure the ground wire is large enough gauge, but didn't want to use the mast itself as a ground (read somewhere before it wasn't a good idea)

Again.... thanks for the help and advice

BB,
SK

[Catigale]

Steve ....beauty of the mast switch approach is:

You only need to run two wires to mast plug

If you design it right, you could allowance access point to power the lights with as all sealed back up battery

how about you run 12 gauge wire up to a sea dog waterproof 12VDC receptacle and the power your mast with the mating receptacle? This would give you a nice 12 VDC power point up top for use on anchor, 50caliber turret, etc.

[mastreb]

Don't forget you can always use the current wire as a pull-string for new wire with more conductors too.