Fortress Anchors
- JohnCFI
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Fortress Anchors
Been offered a choice between a 7lb Fortress and a 22lb Fortress anchor. trying to make up my mind which to have, I am leaning towards the larger (because of our windy conditions).. any advice please??
PS: I do have a 14lb Danforth, already...
PS: I do have a 14lb Danforth, already...
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Paul S
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Re: Fortress Anchors
The fortress fx11 (7#) is more than enough (made for up to 32' boat). The FX37 is waaay overkill - made for a 50' boat
The trick with the fortress (and most danforth) is to set it right. In SOFT mud, remove the chain off the rode, or it won't hold well and use shorter scope
The anchor locker on an X won't hold the fx11 without modification. It will fit in an M though.
we have used the fx11 a lot with no problem. The only issues I had were human error (not power setting, etc), but properly set, and proper scope, will hold you through any blow.
The trick with the fortress (and most danforth) is to set it right. In SOFT mud, remove the chain off the rode, or it won't hold well and use shorter scope
The anchor locker on an X won't hold the fx11 without modification. It will fit in an M though.
we have used the fx11 a lot with no problem. The only issues I had were human error (not power setting, etc), but properly set, and proper scope, will hold you through any blow.
- Ixneigh
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Re: Fortress Anchors
My opinion is the seven is too small for a powersailor Main Anchor. Certainly for my area of higher winds. The 22 is overkill. I have one one those as a storm anchor. I only like fortress anchors in certain conditions. It's light enough to move by hand in shallow areas or to walk the boat across the flats. It holds well in ideal bottoms. If you have a danforth now you could always use the lighter anchor on the stern.
- RobertB
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Re: Fortress Anchors
The Fortress anchors have two settings - standard and mud (angle of flukes). Earlier this year I was rafted up with 7 other boats, 6 much larger than my
when the derecio storm hit us - 90 mph winds. All boats moved but the next day, the anchor that had the most solid set was my FX-11, and we did not even have it set for the mud we were in. We were so impressed, we purchased a second FX-11.
The FX-11 will just barely fit in the anchor locker of the
. Many will dismiss the holding power of this anchor because of its wight but read the independent tests and see it blows away the competition every time.
Guess what my recommendation is
The FX-11 will just barely fit in the anchor locker of the
Guess what my recommendation is
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Paul S
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Re: Fortress Anchors
The fortress doesnt rely on weight for its holding power, the fx11 can far out perform other danforth styles of far heavier weight.
Just don't use it in grassy bottoms! Got a delta plow for grass.
Anchoring is more about technique, scope, etc than weight
good reading - http://www.fortressanchors.com/myths_and_facts.html
Just don't use it in grassy bottoms! Got a delta plow for grass.
Anchoring is more about technique, scope, etc than weight
good reading - http://www.fortressanchors.com/myths_and_facts.html
- DaveB
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Re: Fortress Anchors
I have the F11 Fortress and works great in all bottom except grassy bottom. It picks up the grass and clougs the anchor so it doesn't set well.
I agree a plow type (CQR or Delta) is better for this and also had good results with a claw anchor.
I disagree with having no chain with the Fortress in grassy area. The chain is what helps the ancor to dig in, you just have to do it slowly.
Dave
I agree a plow type (CQR or Delta) is better for this and also had good results with a claw anchor.
I disagree with having no chain with the Fortress in grassy area. The chain is what helps the ancor to dig in, you just have to do it slowly.
Dave
Paul S wrote:The fortress doesnt rely on weight for its holding power, the fx11 can far out perform other danforth styles of far heavier weight.
Just don't use it in grassy bottoms! Got a delta plow for grass.
Anchoring is more about technique, scope, etc than weight
good reading - http://www.fortressanchors.com/myths_and_facts.html
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Paul S
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Re: Fortress Anchors
I said in soft mud (not grass) not to use a chain, as it tends to pull the shank down, and forces the flukes up like in the first pic on the left. Initial short scope til it gets buried helps as wellDaveB wrote:I have the F11 Fortress and works great in all bottom except grassy bottom. It picks up the grass and clougs the anchor so it doesn't set well.
I agree a plow type (CQR or Delta) is better for this and also had good results with a claw anchor.
I disagree with having no chain with the Fortress in grassy area. The chain is what helps the ancor to dig in, you just have to do it slowly.
Dave
Paul S wrote:The fortress doesnt rely on weight for its holding power, the fx11 can far out perform other danforth styles of far heavier weight.
Just don't use it in grassy bottoms! Got a delta plow for grass.
Anchoring is more about technique, scope, etc than weight
good reading - http://www.fortressanchors.com/myths_and_facts.html
Dragged many times using the fortress in grass (usually because it didn't reset because clogged with grass). never using th Delta plow.

- vkmaynard
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Re: Fortress Anchors
Avoid the Fortress as your primary anchor. They are hard to set and will drag more often than not. We had two and kept one for a backup. Both had 12 feet of chain. They are light, easily clog and will not reset. We draged our remaining Fortress just yesterday at the lake while doing some AP testing.
The 16 lb Bruce on the other hand is a beast. Always sets and resets. We just chuck it overboard and our job is done. We have yet to drag the Bruce even in some very rough conditions.
Victor
The 16 lb Bruce on the other hand is a beast. Always sets and resets. We just chuck it overboard and our job is done. We have yet to drag the Bruce even in some very rough conditions.
Victor
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Paul S
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Re: Fortress Anchors
have only dragged the fortress in grassy bottoms. other than that, its pretty bulletproof. Anchoring is technique as well as hardware. I usually have a harder time recovering it because it is buried so deep and solid. always resets well in anything other than grass.
9 out of 10 times when I see people dragging (any anchor) it is due to to short scope and not properly setting it. I try to power set at 10:1 for a minute or 2, then shorten to 7:1 Many times people forget the freeboard, which can be several feet, needs to be added to the depth as well. so 10' of water under the the bottom of the boat, is really about 16' for an X or M (bottom of boat + keel to bow roller height ). If 70' is put out in 10' (under the bottom where your depth sounder is), it is not enough for setting properly, you need at least 112' for 7:1
9 out of 10 times when I see people dragging (any anchor) it is due to to short scope and not properly setting it. I try to power set at 10:1 for a minute or 2, then shorten to 7:1 Many times people forget the freeboard, which can be several feet, needs to be added to the depth as well. so 10' of water under the the bottom of the boat, is really about 16' for an X or M (bottom of boat + keel to bow roller height ). If 70' is put out in 10' (under the bottom where your depth sounder is), it is not enough for setting properly, you need at least 112' for 7:1
- opie
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Re: Fortress Anchors
VK's recommendation has my vote. I use a 10kg Claw and KNOW it will set every time in mid Atlantic coast conditions but scope is important as well.
- Sea Wind
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Re: Fortress Anchors
I am with Victor. I have a 16lbs claw with 25 of chain and 100' of rode and never had a problem. Last year in the Keys we were anchoring out with a small craft advisory, we had only one anchor as all the nearby boats were doing the same. This was in Bahia Honda state park which is famous for poor holding between two bridges. We had winds and current strong enough that I slept on the cockpit on anchor watch all night but we never dragged. After that episode I am a lot more confident on my rig. My second anchor is a Fortress style, good for stern anchor, but consider it inferior to the claw.
I would keep the Danforth 14lbs as primary and the FX11 as stern/secondary anchor. Make sure that you have at lest 20 feet of chain in your primary anchor.
Pedro
I would keep the Danforth 14lbs as primary and the FX11 as stern/secondary anchor. Make sure that you have at lest 20 feet of chain in your primary anchor.
Pedro
- RobertB
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Re: Fortress Anchors
From what I see, anchoring over a grassy bottom is problematic for any anchor - often resulting in several false sets before a good one takes (here, a large brick with all chain rode probably works better). What are the bottom conditions where you anchor? If sand or mud, the Fortress has blown the CQR and Bruce anchors in every test (often by a factor of 10 or more). Personally, I anchor in the Chesapeake Bay primarily where sand and mud bottoms are common. If I had my boat here 100 years ago when the bay was full of vegetation, I would probably not use the lightweight aluminuim Fortress (besides, aluminuim was not around 100 years ago).
- Wind Chime
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Re: Fortress Anchors
I think it’s all personal preference, and there will be no winner in this discussion … but it’s great to hear opinions.
We have a;
- Fortress FX-7
- Fortress FX-11
- 7.5 kg SS Bruce
- 1.5 kg Grapnel
- 10 lb Kellet
Our boat came with a small Danforth.
So we got the FX-7 … and dragged,
We went to the bigger FX-11 … and still dragged.
We went to a 7.5kg Bruce … using the same rode and never had a problem (up to 27 knot winds with several re-sets)
The Fortress sets well the first time. My issue is that it does not re-set consistently. The flukes in the fortress can get caught with grass and bottom crap, in one case even thick bottom mud was enough to stop the flukes from opening to reset.
The Bruce rolls and re-sets every time. I believe it is because there are no moving parts.
We have a;
- Fortress FX-7
- Fortress FX-11
- 7.5 kg SS Bruce
- 1.5 kg Grapnel
- 10 lb Kellet
Our boat came with a small Danforth.
So we got the FX-7 … and dragged,
We went to the bigger FX-11 … and still dragged.
We went to a 7.5kg Bruce … using the same rode and never had a problem (up to 27 knot winds with several re-sets)
The Fortress sets well the first time. My issue is that it does not re-set consistently. The flukes in the fortress can get caught with grass and bottom crap, in one case even thick bottom mud was enough to stop the flukes from opening to reset.
The Bruce rolls and re-sets every time. I believe it is because there are no moving parts.
- DaveB
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Re: Fortress Anchors
Muddy bottoms here in SW Florida dig the F11 and Danforth 13 lb so deep you wish you had a Windlass to haul it up!
I have 30 ft. of chain on all anchors and don't drag if set right. Bahamian Moor is needed for tidal areas .
Pratical Sailor have done many tests on the F11 and always came out for best holding. Their reports and testings don't include Florida.
Those who anchor in their area must know the ground conditions they are in and proper anchor and chain to hold them without drag and ripping the ground cover (grass, Live shells and birth habitats of fish).
Always best to have two diffrent styles of anchors, this area The Danforth and the Claw or Plow.
I have Traveled from Cape Cod to Beafort, NC and truout Bahamas/leward/windward Islands and S.America for 3 years on my 35 Alberg. All Chain and 2-CQRs , Danforth, Northhill and Navy anchor. Only used the CQR 35 and once a danforth in a 60 knot blow and never draged in all kinds of bottoms.
I had 300 ft. of 3/8 BBB chain but never used over 150 ft of scope, except in the Pitons were you anchor in 100 Ft. water.
You anchor here in SW florida with no chain in soft mud you are going to drag!
Useing longer chain will require much less scope, also less damage to bottom. It also acts as a drag reducer as it embeads in sand and mud.
Dave
I have 30 ft. of chain on all anchors and don't drag if set right. Bahamian Moor is needed for tidal areas .
Pratical Sailor have done many tests on the F11 and always came out for best holding. Their reports and testings don't include Florida.
Those who anchor in their area must know the ground conditions they are in and proper anchor and chain to hold them without drag and ripping the ground cover (grass, Live shells and birth habitats of fish).
Always best to have two diffrent styles of anchors, this area The Danforth and the Claw or Plow.
I have Traveled from Cape Cod to Beafort, NC and truout Bahamas/leward/windward Islands and S.America for 3 years on my 35 Alberg. All Chain and 2-CQRs , Danforth, Northhill and Navy anchor. Only used the CQR 35 and once a danforth in a 60 knot blow and never draged in all kinds of bottoms.
I had 300 ft. of 3/8 BBB chain but never used over 150 ft of scope, except in the Pitons were you anchor in 100 Ft. water.
You anchor here in SW florida with no chain in soft mud you are going to drag!
Useing longer chain will require much less scope, also less damage to bottom. It also acts as a drag reducer as it embeads in sand and mud.
Dave
Paul S wrote:I said in soft mud (not grass) not to use a chain, as it tends to pull the shank down, and forces the flukes up like in the first pic on the left. Initial short scope til it gets buried helps as wellDaveB wrote:I have the F11 Fortress and works great in all bottom except grassy bottom. It picks up the grass and clougs the anchor so it doesn't set well.
I agree a plow type (CQR or Delta) is better for this and also had good results with a claw anchor.
I disagree with having no chain with the Fortress in grassy area. The chain is what helps the ancor to dig in, you just have to do it slowly.
Dave
Paul S wrote:The fortress doesnt rely on weight for its holding power, the fx11 can far out perform other danforth styles of far heavier weight.
Just don't use it in grassy bottoms! Got a delta plow for grass.
Anchoring is more about technique, scope, etc than weight
good reading - http://www.fortressanchors.com/myths_and_facts.html
Dragged many times using the fortress in grass (usually because it didn't reset because clogged with grass). never using th Delta plow.
- NiceAft
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Re: Fortress Anchors
This may help supply some unbiased information.
http://billspringer.blogspot.com/2011/0 ... e.html?m=1
Ray
http://billspringer.blogspot.com/2011/0 ... e.html?m=1
Ray
