Smart Tabs

[Crikey]

One of my first mods this spring will be fitting a pair of Nauticus Smart Tabs SX to the stern of my
http://www.nauticusinc.com/smart_tabsSX ... m_tabs.htm

I decided the 60lb gas shocks are the way to go for my loading, and outboard weight. You can't go by their rating chart because for a 26ft long regular powerboat the weight would be off the scale which is why they recommend the 80lb model. On the other hand 40lb is probably too light.
They have an adjustable bracket (PR500) that is used for the trolling braking mode, and is also used in a different mounting position to set them to neutral (straight back)for use with a sailboat without inducing drag.
http://www.nauticusinc.com/smart_tabs_pr500.htm

The ballast gate valve will have to be shimmed out somewhat to match the thickness of the tab hinge, which is going to run trimmed along the bottom behind its base.
I'll also have to work out the centering so I don't have interference from the rudders or the outboard.

So far, it was all I could do to take a couple of rough-in shots before my fingers started freezing (add cojones to that!), so I will add more to this description as I progress through to completion, and testing.
Feel free to chime in with any personal observations.
Ross

[egwall1]

What are the expected benefits of installing these on an M26?

[Tomfoolery]

Looking forward to seeing these in August.

[Crikey]

What are the expected benefits of installing these on an M26?

That's a very good question! Actually I think this may be a first for a MacGregor, though certainly not for a multitude of regular powerboats (Scan their site for testimonials). While I think it's possible, I don't expect to see any improvements while sailing only. The theory says a longer hull spec should result in a higher base speed, though I'd be surprised these would really amount to anything noticeable.
What I'm hoping to fool with is the powered side of the spectrum - after all it is a powerboat too. The technology (trim tabs) provides for faster on plane transitions, as well as lower planing speed while reducing 'porpoising' in certain conditions. Other attributes should hopefully encompass better pointing under power, as well as an improvement in overall lateral stability.
I like the ability to lock them up for sailing (no drag) and beaching. Another wish is to further compliment the Sting Ray hydrofoil installed on my outboard.
Folly, or not, I'm going to find out pretty soon...
R.

[seahouse]

I'm looking forward to hearing how these work out, too. Looks like a simple extension of the ladder standoff will prevent the two from interfering. Pull off rubber cap, jam broomstick section in, reinstall rubber cap.

-B.

[dreamer]

Hey Crikey it'll be interesting to see how that works. We'll have to shoot some video at MMOR IV. Yeah it's still rather cold here (unlike last year) but you have inspired me to start getting the boat ready for the upcoming season this weekend.

[Crikey]

Brian, based on previous experience, I think I'm going to do away with this ladder completely. My Admiral (Gabriele), as you might remember, is a stroke survivor with no good function in her left arm; for her, the right hand ladder is useless unless I'm topside to lend a hand. My other mod for this year, will be to come up with a working swim platform, incorporating the mast support with an extension, and hinge . Easier to get one's bum up out of the water, first, before standing up, then walking on-board. That could be a non event though, if I need to use it for solar panels, but other than that, you only need it up when motoring with the mast down.
Also, I want to re-work my asymmetrical steering skegs to an outboard symmetric style with a longer reach, in order to keep away from the starboard tab. Thinking about angling these at 30 degrees like on some newer sailboat rudders. I'll put this out there shortly.
Might need some of your wonder plastic for shimming the gate valve on the port side, to incorporate the Tab over there...

Ross

[Wind Chime]

by Crikey » Mon Mar 25, 2013 5:01 pm
Another wish is to further compliment the Sting Ray hydrofoil installed on my outboard.

Hey Crikey,
How do you like the Sting Ray Hyrofoil on your outboard?
I was looking at them last year, what benefits have you found from this addition?

[Crikey]

by Crikey » Mon Mar 25, 2013 5:01 pm
Another wish is to further compliment the Sting Ray hydrofoil installed on my outboard.

Hey Crikey,
How do you like the Sting Ray Hyrofoil on your outboard?
I was looking at them last year, what benefits have you found from this addition?

I went for the Senior model (XRIII from memory). As advertised, it does raise up on plane quicker and seemingly, with less effort getting over the hump. Because it redirects the prop thrust somewhat, it wastes less power in the roostertail, and seems to control better. I also feel it can hold the plane better, at a lower speed, before dropping off.
Of course, this is all 'gut' feeling, and there was no way to do before and after comparisons, but I think it works with a displacement hull that is pushed to planing. Hopefully, my Tabs will take it a step further.
My biggest worry with this model, was having it fall off in the middle of Lake Ontario, because there's no holes drilled and the small variances in outboard lower ends means you get only one chance to attach it firmly enough.
Knock on wood!

[Highlander]

So with doe-fin & dorsal - fins , when yer going to rename yer boat "FLIPPER"

J

[Crikey]

So with doe-fin & dorsal - fins , when yer going to rename yer boat "FLIPPER"

J

I've been called a wanker before, but never flipper!
Maybe I should rename this thread 'not so Smart Tab's' ...

[seahouse]

Hey Ross!

In Ontario a ladder is a safety requirement, or some other way of entering a boat from the water with certain height restrictions (way less than our boats) above the water level.

How much height do you need for the shim-out?

-Brian.

[Crikey]

Hey Ross!

In Ontario a ladder is a safety requirement, or some other way of entering a boat from the water with certain height restrictions (way less than our boats) above the water level.

How much height do you need for the shim-out?

-Brian.

Brian, I'm glad you pointed that out! I think, when I eventually get around to doing it, that my swim platform would meet, and perform, the same requirements (hopefully). Even one of those floppy rope ladders should also fit that bill. Perhaps your idea of a stand-off extension will work in conjunction with the platform, while staying clear of my Tab? A stock ladder if at an angle, if strong enough, could improve regular ingress regardless.
The Tab hinge is nylon. I'll get off my posterior soon - measure it properly - and get back to you. Both materials would have to be equally compressible, and compatible with 5200. That's probably not a show stopper...

Ross

[BOAT]

Those things really do work on power boats. They keep the front down so the boat does not plow water in the rear part. As the bow tries to rise it makes the aft sink and plow, and then the boat slows down. The effect is as if your boat was overloaded to the rear. The trim makes the bow point down more and sets the balance closer to the center of the boat. Even in the instructions from the Roger MacGregor factory it says to put a person up front in the bow berth to go faster under power.

When sailing most of the ballast is to the front right under the mast, (and that is good), but the same Roger MacGregor instructions say under sail the effect is the opposite - he said to move the people to the BACK of the boat for best speed under sail because when the boat is on it's side the aft weight makes the bow go higher out of the water and is less likly to catch the water on the opposite site and 'round up'.

If you sail heavy wind and seas and put a lot of people in the front of the boat it will start to 'round up' more. (I never used the word 'round up', I always said 'point', but one of the guys on this site corrected me and scolded me so I am trying to be good.) Sometimes you guys are sort of picky about the "terminininology" (starteeeegery? phraserology?) Please forgive my poor vocalabulary

[Crikey]

Boat, nicely restated! From experience, I've found the fore & aft trim very sensitive to getting right. It's not always easy, or possible to get any crew staying put in the optimum position, and re-moving items around to correct the first holiday loading, usually needs revisiting at least once. (that's three re-'s! )
Just about any picture, or video I've seen of the Mac under power, usually shows lots of stern squat. Particularly if the water is not completely flat. Most of that is due to the fact that our power-sailor is a compromise using a round displacement hull trying to get up on plane. I think these devices might help to alleviate this, to some extent.
Again ... wishful thinking, at this stage.
Two more things that will follow on from this before I'm finished with the hull, will be:
A half pair of 'Smart Rails' under the hull, in line with the rudders, to channel to water flow straight back. (honestly, two different companies, so I'm not being a 'smarta$$) Should act as chines.
A small skeg incorporated into the bottom of the dagger-board, that just protrudes when retracted. I want this to enhance the powered pointing, but am not certain if it would be positioned too far forward.
But .... first things first!

Ross