Suzuki DF50 corrosion

[Lucky Drifter]

We have a suzuki DF50 on our 2002 26X and have a corrosion problem. The exhaust manifold temperature sensor has popped out of the block and it looks like is has been pushed out by corrosion in the exhaust gallery. The engine has always been serviced except when on its mooring & flushed with fresh water with an anti corrosion additive when we can. Has anyone else had problems like this with suzuki four strokes ? Have some photos but not sure how to post them. Any advice greatly appreciated
Thanks Lenny

[Keel_Hauled]

Same problem here. Couldn't clean out the old threads enough to get a new one in. The new one went part way in and snapped. Plugged another new sensor into the harness and tucked in in behind everything else. Problem solved ?

[Lucky Drifter]

Thanks for reply, have you found corrosion elsewhere. We did find some last year around the thermostat. My mechanic is coming tomorrow so am thinking of splitting engine to clean out the cooling gallerys but sounds a big expensive job.

[Ormonddude]

If the engine ever has been painted check the anode it is made to corrode instead of your engine components sometimes people paint over them rendering them ineffective also make sure you have the proper anode for either salt or fresh water as they are made of different materials. I realize this may not solve your problem or answer your question but the engines operate in a harsh environment the only other food for thought i can offer is this maybe you need to be more proactive MANY Engine components are of less than up to the challenge, material like the tilt/trim pump motor on many older Johnson and Envinrude the unit itself is cast aluminum but the motor is painted pressed steal and turns to junk in no time if you dont try to paint it or look after it. Can you maybe use a coating to help that particular component that won effect it and yet bring corrosion under control? I am just offering some food for thought. Also if the threads are full of rust buy a tap screw and carefully run it in and out the threads will be like new.

[Ixneigh]

I experienced some evidence of corrosion on my etch. I added zincs to the engine bracket and the bottom of the power tilt unit. These seemed to help. When the engine ( mine) is tilted up, the lower zinc is no longer in the water. Corrosion can still occurs even if the lower unit is tilted out or mostly out of the water. In my case the very bottom of the gear case just kissed the water, and the paint flaked off in a matter of weeks. If a particular area was a problem, I would try wiring a wire connected to a zinc to it.
My motor only gets flushed twice a year when the boat is on the trailer for the off season. Who knows what the inside looks like but that's the reality of having a boat ready to sail off a mooring.
Not to start a rant, but as a kid, we had evinrudes on our skiffs and dinghies and NEVER flushed them. The metal itself lasted until the power heads were so worn out the engine was junked. Never a problem with excessive corrosion.
About the only thing we did at the dock at the end of the day was run the carb dry.
Why can't today's high tech engines be like that?
Ix

[Lucky Drifter]

Thanks for the advice we did replace two anodes last service. I will get my mechanic to check if the others are working. Has anyone had success with Macs Ultrafilm flush water additive ? Lenny