What do you torque lugs to

[kmclemore]

Kevin--

The roads would be much safer if everyone followed your procedures. Such routine checks are mandatory for trucks.

After the initial re-torque of the lug nuts, you can also mark their position with a marker (with a Sharpie or whatever). After that a quick visual check on the walk-around will reveal if any are coming loose.

- Brian.

Thanks, Brian. Yeah, the lug marking is a good idea, too.

The nice thing about doing this walk-around check in the way I spec'd out is that it can all be done easily within the time it takes to fill your tank, so it really doesn't take any extra time at all to give you that critical 'safety factor' (assuming you can 'latch' the pump handle to auto-fill your tank - not all stations have this, of course).

BTW, I also happen to continue that walk around my tow vehicle as well, just checking the tire temperatures by 'feel' to ensure none are down on pressure. The driving wheels (supplying the power to the road) tend to be somewhat warmer than the non-driving wheels, BTW, so don't let that throw you. But you'd be surprised just how much hotter a tire can get when it's only a few pounds lower than the others.

[MadMacX]

Guys, If you want to use an impact wrench to tighten lug nuts, at least get the proper torque stick for your application, then you don't have to use a torque wrench.They aren't all that expensive and they do a good job.

pat

[kmclemore]

Guys, If you want to use an impact wrench to tighten lug nuts, at least get the proper torque stick for your application, then you don't have to use a torque wrench.They aren't all that expensive and they do a good job.

pat

Agree, Pat. That's what the 'pros' do as well. However, I still think having a plain old click-type ratcheting-head torque wrench is a good investment, particularly as they are really inexpensive and reasonably accurate for the price. After all, it's not as easy to take an impact wrench on the road with you to check your lugs or replace a spare if need be. And besides, the dang thing is handy whenever tightening any size of nut or bolt on your car, boat, mower, etc. Just post a chart of torque specs in your shop and you can refer to it for loads of different bolt sizes.

[seahouse]

Hey Pat - It was quite some time ago, so they might be better now, but torque sticks were tested to be not so accurate (at least compared to a torque wrench). But far better than nothing at all.

Hey Kevin - Yeah, even being on the sunny vs shady side of the vehicle can give you a significant difference in tire pressure, both "cold" after the car has been sitting, one side in the sun; and "hot", when travelling. Black rubber- it's like a solar panel.

And it can take several hours of sitting, believe it or not, for a tire to cool down to what is considered "cold" (ambient) pressure. They hold the heat when sitting. But you've probably already noticed that.

On the highway the wheels bearing the most weight will generate more heat as well as the drive wheels, most noticeably at upper highway speeds.

[island808]

Bit of paranoia over trailer lugs.

Actually, I agree with most of what you said, with the exception of this last bit. If we were talking about a heavy-duty 2-axle trailer with plenty of spare capacity and two big wheels on each side in case one went bad, I would not be nearly so concerned and I'd likely agree with you. However, our Mac trailers, love them as we do, really are at the margins of safety as supplied from new. The axle, tires, bearings and other components are *just* adequate to do the job, but not much more. Look at the load ratings on the stock tires, for example, and then do a back-of-the-envelope calculation of the total weight of your rig... you'll likely find that the numbers are pretty close. As a result of this marginal build, the individual parts, and the trailer as a whole, take an awful lot of stress and are therefore more prone to failure if not properly maintained. Hence my concern about the torquing of lugs - those studs are already about as stressed as they're going to be in any trailer-install situation... adding over-torquing to them only increases the risk of failure. And with only one wheel on each side, failure becomes a very serious situation... and potentially catastrophic.

.

I keep forgetting. Mine Had no trailer, and though I was offered a free Mac trailer.I went down to pick up the Mac trailer and just said no thank you.

Dropped the money on a 2 axle, disc brake, 4 2x6 extended bunks,aluminum with large aluminum wheels. I can back my trailer over the curb with my sienna v6 barely touching the accelerator. No swaying, no bouncing, no tipping. Tires are about the same diameter as the van. Rolls awesome. Launches like a dream, (since i sprayed those huge bunks with liquid rollers) probably a bit deeper than the Mac trailer, but it has the wheel diameter to roll over whatever I back it into. Wen in doubt, drive a tank...

So then I rented a power lift slip...

[mastreb]

On my recent trip I just made a habit of checking the following every time I stopped for gas:

1) Hub temps: should be warm to the touch but not so hot that you can't keep your finger on it. Keep in mind that the side that's been in the sun will be hotter, by the same amount that the trailer rail on that side is hotter. Check as soon as you stop, because they cool down quickly.

2) Straps. I strap the cockpit forward stanchions to the trailer rear rail and I put a single strap over the bow at the pulpit and around the drawbar. Should twang like a bass guitar.

3) Grease. Bearing buddies should be out by 1/8" inch from the hub and you should be able to push the blue caps side-to-side with your finger. If they don't move, add grease.

4) Air pressure: Should match your sidewall for 2500 lbs. per side assuming a standard load.

5) Lugs: Hadn't thought of sharpie--used wife's nail polish to mark them. It comes off the nuts when they're taken on and off during a tire change and you can go back over them.

6) Lights: Put on the hazards, before getting out, check all.

It's a simple one-minute walk around you can do while you're filling up.

Matt

[dlandersson]

We did this in the army also. It works.

On my recent trip I just made a habit of checking the following every time I stopped for gas:

1) Hub temps: should be warm to the touch but not so hot that you can't keep your finger on it. Keep in mind that the side that's been in the sun will be hotter, by the same amount that the trailer rail on that side is hotter. Check as soon as you stop, because they cool down quickly.

2) Straps. I strap the cockpit forward stanchions to the trailer rear rail and I put a single strap over the bow at the pulpit and around the drawbar. Should twang like a bass guitar.

3) Grease. Bearing buddies should be out by 1/8" inch from the hub and you should be able to push the blue caps side-to-side with your finger. If they don't move, add grease.

4) Air pressure: Should match your sidewall for 2500 lbs. per side assuming a standard load.

5) Lugs: Hadn't thought of sharpie--used wife's nail polish to mark them. It comes off the nuts when they're taken on and off during a tire change and you can go back over them.

6) Lights: Put on the hazards, before getting out, check all.

It's a simple one-minute walk around you can do while you're filling up.

Matt

[seahouse]

And a minute well-spent, Matt.

Two general tips here regarding the use of straps to secure things at highway speeds.

1) Give the strap a half (or more) twist between contact points in unsupported areas. It will prevent the strap from vibrating, increase its life, run quieter, and stop unnecessary wear (chafe) on any surface it contacts. I see lots of professional truckers haven't figured this out yet. It's remarkable how someone can spend their whole life in a profession and know so little about it. Sheesh!

2) Locate your ratchet or connection points on the right (starboard) side of the vehicle whenever you have the option. If you have to pull over and make a check or adjustment it's much safer to do it from the shoulder side of the vehicle, than from the side where vehicles might be whizzing by a few feet away at 75+ mph. Of course, ideally if possible you would pull off the highway altogether to do this.

-B.

[Catigale]

We did this in the army also. It works.

Used nail polish? That closes loop on a lot of rumors I've heard about the Army....

Hmmmm, come to think of it, Admiral Mastreb wasn't the one wearing nail polish when you visited either.....Hmmmmm

[mastreb]

Hey I don't remember getting my toes out.

[kmclemore]

I think it was the cotton balls between them that gave you away.

[Catigale]

6) Lights: Put on the hazards, before getting out, check all.

Nice. Ill add that one to my list.

[seahouse]

6) Lights: Put on the hazards, before getting out, check all.


Nice. Ill add that one to my list.

While standing at the back of the trailer I use the remote door lock function on the key fob to check the lights. (I think remote door locks are common enough now that no one is impressed by hearing your horn blow any more, so that should be turned off in any event).

It's important to note that both of these techniques are "quick and dirty" methods (they don't check the brake lights, or all the bulb filaments, whichever are used), and so should not substitute for a thorough check on initial trailer connection.

[Tomfoolery]

I do a walk-around with the running lights and 4-ways on, since the turns are the same function as the brake lights on a trailer, and when I remember I also hit the brakes since the boat is backed up to the garage door as it's normally parked, and I can see them shine on the door in my mirrors. In case the electronics in the car that combine the car's turn and brake functions into one 'bulb' on each side isn't working, that is.

[Harrison]

As someone who actually was a race car owner, mechanic and driver over a period of 40 years (1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7), I can assure you that the air wrenches you see them using at pro-race events like NASCAR are not your run-of-the-mill wrenches. They cost upwards of $1,500-$2,000 each, they get rebuilt or serviced after every few races, they are very accurate and can be regulated closely to apply the proper load and speed. In addition, as you clearly didn't notice, he's using a torque-limiting socket in that video. Look again.



I'm not going to argue this point any further. You can do whatever you like - more power to you (and your brother). My advice to the members here is to use a torque wrench if at all possible... it will help prevent stretched, broken or stripped studs and will ensure the lug nuts stay put. On your car's wheels it will help prevent warped rotors as well.

Kevin, is that a Siata and an Elva I see?

---Harrison