Several questions about my Mac 26M

[bedouin]

I just did this long post and can not find it..... hopefully it will show up, maybe I can find it somewhere here.

[bedouin]

Well, I went out sailing yesterday. My first trip into the Gulf of Mexico. It was fun as well as challenging. Usually I go into Tampa Bay but I have been wanting to go on the West side of Anna Maria island and Long Boat Key for a year now but also wanted to stay in my comfort zone. Was only a 1/2 mile off shore at the most.

I have a wind app on my iPhone and it said winds were 3 to 5 mph. On my gps it said I was going 2-3 (gps speed) windward and 3-4 downwind. What is gps speed? Is that mph and how accurate is it?

Since I am not totally comfortable on the water by myself, I have always kept the steering rod connected to the motor when sailing, just in case I needed to drop the engine to get me out of a situation fast. But yesterday it seemed to me that I had a hard time heading windward. It seemed I had the rudders as far as they could go, and wondered if I had detached the motor they might have turned more??

I have read on this forum that others have said the Mac's don't round up very well?? Is this what they are talking about??

The winds seemed to be constant and I felt that I should have been going faster than I was. As if I was dragging an anchor (but wasn't). Maybe the bottom has barnacles than I thought (boat has been in the water a year in May and I have only cleaned the sides - it was my plan to do the bottom yesterday but to windy). I finally gave up around 3:30pm as it seemed to me that the winds were stronger and there were some swells starting. I put down the motor and tried to head into the wind to drop the sails but the wind seemed to strong in either direction so I chickened out and dropped the sails heading downwind. Please feel free to critique all my mistakes, bad habits and general lack of basic sailing.

This just showed me I still have a lot to learn. I did take ASA 101 but we were in the calm of the Manatee river on a 30' Catalina.

I did see for sure that the forestay wire is definitely 1/8 " so I will order one next week along with the mooring light. A lot of great posts about changing out the forestay but I will need to mull them over quite a bit until it gets into my head. Somehow I will change out the jib to the genny too.

Which brings me to another question, wiring. On my Precision 26 I ran new wire and installed a new steaming light and a 4 pin deck plug so I will need to do the same on the Mac. However, I will need to run wire to a switch for the anchor light and I can't think how I can get access to the deck plug from inside the cabin. Maybe I can remove the stock plug on the deck (which is very cheap plastic and starting to corrode) and get a fish tape in and thread the wire to the side of the fiberglass cabin shell and run it along the sides. Where is a good place to get wire and a deck connector?

Thank you all for your posts this past year as it has been very, very helpful to me.

Matthew

[Russ]

This just showed me I still have a lot to learn. I did take ASA 101 but we were in the calm of the Manatee river on a 30' Catalina.

Remember that the Mac M is a compromise boat that is both sail and power. Therefore it doesn't do either very well. Compared to sailing a Catalina 30, the Mac is a barge. You will need to realize that pointing and many other aspects of sail requires more skill. Unlike that 30', the Mac is not forgiving of sail trim mistakes.
You will get used to it and realize how to come about. Turning the rudders all the way over will tend to slow the boat down too much and stall it. Also you will need a lot of speed before attempting to turn. In light winds, I simply jibe to come about. It's much easier.

Wind app on your phone is depending on some base to report back to you. The GPS is probably fairly accurate. It should also report what measurement (Knots or MPH). My guess is it's in MPH as most use the GPS on land.

Which brings me to another question, wiring. On my Precision 26 I ran new wire and installed a new steaming light and a 4 pin deck plug so I will need to do the same on the Mac. However, I will need to run wire to a switch for the anchor light and I can't think how I can get access to the deck plug from inside the cabin. Maybe I can remove the stock plug on the deck (which is very cheap plastic and starting to corrode) and get a fish tape in and thread the wire to the side of the fiberglass cabin shell and run it along the sides. Where is a good place to get wire and a deck connector?

You don't have to run another set of wires. I used a mod posted on this forum to use 2 wires for 2 lights switching polarity.
LEDs are the way to go for lighting anyway and the "D" in LED is Diode, they can be wired such that only one light illuminates at a time. I simply added a DPDT switch at the panel (see diagram below) and toggle between steaming and anchor light. Since both should never be used simultaneously this works well and I didn't have to change any deck wiring. The hardest part was running a wire from the existing steaming light to the top of the mast. Some LEDs do some kind of voodu and will actually illuminate with polarity in either direction. So when replacing your steaming light with an LED, test that it only lights up in one direction. I think my anchor light had this issue and I had to add an actual Diode in the wiring.

I made my own switch panel, but you could easily add the DPDT switch to your boat. Mine is the top right of the panel.
(click to enlarge)


Diode Mod
http://www.macgregorsailors.com/modt/index.php?view=453

[bedouin]

Wow! Even more to digest. Yes, I could sail that Catalina all day in those winds. I tried a couple of things to make the boat go a little into the wind, changed the sail shape, brought one rudder up, but did not seems to matter.

Also wondered in that wind how much should the dagger board be down? I had it all the way.

One more thing, do you guys secure the ropes tight that pull down the rudders (I did this time, but normally I don't because I am afraid I will hit a shallow spot/sandbar and break the rudders)

Guess I also need to find conversion bulbs.

Thank you for the post.

Matthew

[yukonbob]

UV resistant zip ties have officially made into Chapmans as alternative ways to seize shackles.

Probably don't even need UV resistant up North, just replace each year.

I use them on my anchor shackle.

Except for the 20 hours of daylight and all...

[Russ]

Wow! Even more to digest. Yes, I could sail that Catalina all day in those winds. I tried a couple of things to make the boat go a little into the wind, changed the sail shape, brought one rudder up, but did not seems to matter.

Also wondered in that wind how much should the dagger board be down? I had it all the way.

One more thing, do you guys secure the ropes tight that pull down the rudders (I did this time, but normally I don't because I am afraid I will hit a shallow spot/sandbar and break the rudders)

Guess I also need to find conversion bulbs.

Thank you for the post.

Matthew

I keep my dagger fully down most of the time unless I'm running downwind. Even then, I think it's too small. In my opinion, our Macs sail best in heavier winds.

There is an easy way to hold the rudders down.

Something "like" this. The end that holds the rudders down should pull through the cleat and the other end of the line wraps around to keep it from pulling out freely. It can, however, pull out if stressed. In this photo, it's backwards. The line holding the boards down should pull through the center and slack wrapped around.

[Ixneigh]

You have to be on your toes but the M sails fine. Sure compared to a bigger keelboat it may not point as well so what. It points just fine in the conditions it was made for. I can promise you that Catalina don't point at all in three feet of water. Sailing the M I have found, is not for slackers however. It needs good sails, a helmsperson who's paying attention and a really clean bottom. I have a nice set of blue ribbon tell tails on all shrouds to help me find the wind. Keep the stern light. Don't pile junk back there for just day sailing. Only if you have a long downwind leg. This boat is the most challenging boat I've ever sailed. Once you get used to her quirks you'll be ok. I had to unlearn a lot of keelboat techniques though.
Ix

[mastreb]

Ditto Ix's comments about it being a challenging boat to sail.

I've found an autohelm is PRICELESS on these boats for improving sail performance, because nobody in my family including myself is capable of paying attention to heading closely enough. The boat has a nervous helm and will wander immediately given even a second's inattention. Just checking your sail trim or glancing over your shoulder will find you ten degrees off-course, and when you're trying to point, that's all it takes to blow it.

With the autohelm, she sails like she's on rails and you can spend your time trimming for maximum performance, and really get there. Plus it makes single handing easy, makes the admiral happy, and the little kids can stand their and feel like they're "driving".

After three years of frustration wondering why I wasn't able to be consistent, I've realized my problems were 100% helm keeping. I'd be trimming the sails trying to keep the wind and notice the Admiral had let the boat drift off by 30 degrees. Then the sudden corrections wind up halting the boat. It's a never-ending downward spiral of performance.

If you don't have or want an autohelm and you're wondering why you aren't getting performance, look at your course-keeping as the first and most likely culprit.

Matt

[yukonbob]

Ditto Ix's comments about it being a challenging boat to sail.

I've found an autohelm is PRICELESS on these boats for improving sail performance, because nobody in my family including myself is capable of paying attention to heading closely enough. The boat has a nervous helm and will wander immediately given even a second's inattention. Just checking your sail trim or glancing over your shoulder will find you ten degrees off-course, and when you're trying to point, that's all it takes to blow it.

With the autohelm, she sails like she's on rails and you can spend your time trimming for maximum performance, and really get there. Plus it makes single handing easy, makes the admiral happy, and the little kids can stand their and feel like they're "driving".

After three years of frustration wondering why I wasn't able to be consistent, I've realized my problems were 100% helm keeping. I'd be trimming the sails trying to keep the wind and notice the Admiral had let the boat drift off by 30 degrees. Then the sudden corrections wind up halting the boat. It's a never-ending downward spiral of performance.

If you don't have or want an autohelm and you're wondering why you aren't getting performance, look at your course-keeping as the first and most likely culprit.

Matt

Ran head long into that same problem this weekend. Had the step father on board manning the helm. Had to bite my tongue and not ask why we weren't holding a steady course. Half was the boats tendency to wander and the other half was his input. Still a great day sailing Saturday, not another boat in the entire canal, had it all to ourselves.

I try and make people use a land references to hold a course which can be difficult (head straight towards that big rock outcrop by the trees close to the water... (there's thousands of both here)) when that fails I make them use the compass, not nearly as fun looking at but it works.

[Catigale]

Somewhere in our family genetic material naval expertise expressed itself in the last generation, both of my girls can a hold a true course without a "waggle in the wake". Being girls, their attention span also exceeds the ground state lifetime of Rb 87 by 10E9x or so, compared to......hey....a chicken!!!

Matthew OP....make sure those rudders are pulled down all the way and cleated off tight or else you can break your steering.

You did well in those wind conditions. Sailing in light air is the most challenging, so it's a hard way to learn. You really want 5-10 knots of wind in these boats for shaking them out.

[bedouin]

Greetings to all....

Finally got my act together and ordered the new HD forestay from BWY. Also go a new pin for it as it looked easier to use that the original one I have. Also ordered a mooring light and replacement led bulbs for both the steaming light and mooring light.

Wiring the mooring light will be a challenge.... I re-read all the posts again and will just had to move forward as see what I run into. I do have a spare breaker and rocker arm shut off. I guess it would mean running wire to the switch.

Unstepped the mast a couple of weeks ago and carried the mast on my shoulder from the dock to my back yard. Once balanced it was pretty light. I have yet to get into changing out the forestay and jib to genny but going to do that soon.

It's been interesting motoring the boat without the mast for the last several weeks. So nice not to have to wait for the bridges to open!

Since I have the mast down is there anything else I should be doing or adding while it is down???

I read a modification post today that kinda freaked me out. It was the one were many owners were talking about loose and leaking brackets for the rudders (the four bolts). Now I am thinking I need to connect up a bilge pump as my is in the water all year! Any suggestions type and where to place it??

Also had a problem yesterday with my 50hp Etec motor, put it in neutral and the engine rpms idled at about 1800. I have to put it into gear which I hated but had no choice. It happened three times. Is there some cable linkage that is getting stuck or is there something that I can lube or adjust??

TIA

Matthew

[Matt19020]

Matthew, I placed mine in the battery compartment I went relatively small I believe it was a rule 360 but If I would do it again I would use 500 or higher. I have heard people using up to 3. 1 for port, starboard and center. More important I ran my bilge thruhole to my port side about 6" above waterline...BIG MISTAKE! ...When i would heel over it would actually force water into the boat, luckily we noticed on our first outing and only had to mop up about 20 gallons. There are check valves you could use but I don't trust them. I would run your thruhole out the stern so healing is not a factor as high as needed so water will not come in when reversing,

http://www.macgregorsailors.com/forum/v ... ilit=bilge
http://www.macgregorsailors.com/forum/v ... ge#p221215

[bedouin]

Today I got serious and planned out my wiring for the anchor/mooring light. I tried to understand the previous post by RussMT about not having to run extra wires by converting to LED (my mooring light came with a standard blub but I did buy an LED replacement bulb. But the steaming light is still a standard 12v bulb) but just could not wrap my head around it. So I chickened out and bought a 4 pin deck connector and 50 feet of wire with the intention to spend the time and run new wire to my spare rocker switch on the breaker panel.

First problem, not really a problem but the new 4 pin connector is smaller then the stock 2 pin (so can't use the same holes, still not a deal breaker but...). Should I use 5200 under the rubber gasket or nothing at all??
Then getting to the deck connector from the interior was very interesting to say the least (I have read about the polystyrene in the Macs but had no idea that millions of little pieces were jammed everywhere - now my Mac is full of snowballs) I entered thru the plate around the dagger board.

I can see the existing steaming light cable coming down from the deck connector and going along the starboard side. Does anyone know if it goes all the way to the back and around the stern and up the port side to the breaker panel?
If so I think 50' of cable is too short. 30' down the mast to the male deck connectors and then I would probably need another 30' to reach all the way around to the rocker switch on the breaker panel.

Would appreciate any comments.

TIA

Matthew

[bedouin]

Just realized that the 4 pin connector that I just bought at West Marine will not fit four wires in the top part of the connector. Guess I will have to order online somewhere. Anyone have any luck?

I think the stock deck connector is Perko, does anyone know?

Thanks

Matthew

[Russ]

Stock deck connector is 2 wires. Not sure what you have there.

I think this is what is on my boat.


http://www.boatersland.com/pko1189dp0chr.html