Misc. Identifying equipment specs

[DaveC426913]

1. One of my batteries died but I don't know which one (the regular or the deep cycle).
I took the dead one out last fall and gave it to the shop, so I don't recall which one it was. The one that's in there now does not say which type it is on the top, and the side is hidden.

What it does say is
Series 3600, Rating (CCA) 24M-550, Rating (CA) 650
Can I tell form that if it's a regular or deep-cycle battery?


2. I've got a spare prop, left by the PO. It's a Mercury 10.0 x 9.0, which I think refers to the dia. and blade pitch. I've got a Honda BF50. I know some people are really big on getting just the right prop, and I'm sure there's some slight difference in performance between my two props, but does it matter much?

[Tomfoolery]

2. I've got a spare prop, left by the PO. It's a Mercury 10.0 x 9.0, which I think refers to the dia. and blade pitch. I've got a Honda BF50. I know some people are really big on getting just the right prop, and I'm sure there's some slight difference in performance between my two props, but does it matter much?

My two 'standard' props are 11-3/4" dia x 10" pitch, 3-blade, supercavitating type (hatchet shaped blades). That prop was sold by Honda, but made by Solas. They seem just about right for an empty boat at top speed, with the engine a couple hundred rpm below max. That prop you're asking about sounds pretty small for that engine and boat. But in a pinch, it'll move the boat, so I wouldn't toss it. Just watch your engine speed if you use it.



The one on the right is the 'standard' one I was referring to, though it's actually a beat up spare. I have another one that's in perfect shape that I usually keep on the engine, and the spare stays below, in case I need it. The 4-blade is a 11.8" x 9" I use for pulling a wakeboard, since it gives a better hole shot, and I'm obviously not going as fast dragging my 200 lb son around. The 4-blade is a Solas. And it makes an annoying sound between 2000 and 3000 rpm (many folks have reported the same thing, so it's not just me), so I don't use it for canal cruising.

Edit: Corrected the 4-blade diameter to 11.8".

[Retcoastie]

Dave,

You say you have the Honda. It takes very little starting current. You should consider the remaining battery a starting battery even if it is an older deep cycle. There is, probably, plenty of capacity remaining to start the Honda. Then, get a new deep cycle house battery. Ya can't go wrong that way.

Ken

[Russ]

Dave,

You say you have the Honda. It takes very little starting current. You should consider the remaining battery a starting battery even if it is an older deep cycle. There is, probably, plenty of capacity remaining to start the Honda. Then, get a new deep cycle house battery. Ya can't go wrong that way.

Ken

Yup. Just buy a deep cycle battery. Starting batteries on our boats make no sense.

[Gabby_SC]

Yea ! what Kadet says

[kadet]

In case Gabby_SC post was not clear it is a Starting Battery and not a very strong one at that.

[DaveC426913]

I think I have a mental block when it comes to boat electrical.
- I assume that the thing that needs to most heavy duty battery is the motor (compared to cabin lights and phone chargers).
- I assume "deep cycle" is a special type of heavy-duty marine battery (because no one ever talks about a deep cycle battery for their car).

Between those two things (which I am given to understand are both wrong), I have trouble understanding how to look at them. So I'll just trust what y'all are telling me. Do I have it correct?
Buy a deep cycle. Use that one to power my onboard devices.
Use whatever battery I currently have as the starter, (which doesn't actually require a lot of juice).

[March]

A deep cycle battery is able to withstand numerous complete discharges and be recharged fully, without any adverse effects. A car battery will seldom find itself in this position, since the car moves when the engine runs and the engine recharges the battery.
It makes more sense to have a deep cycle battery on a boat, where you can have electronics draining your battery even when the engine is not running.
The engine does require a lot of juice (Amps, that is). It's much more common for a boat engine to refuse to start and drain your battery than for a car engine. Boat engines require a certain number of cranking amps--tjhat's what you want to make sure your starting battery provides (and then some)