CDI FF2 jamming issue

[K9Kampers]

On my second outing this season, I started experiencing an issue with the CDI FF2 furler that I had not experienced on the first outing two weeks prior. The furler line jams while furling in AND furling out.

At a critical moment when I needed to furl the genny in a bit for forward visibility, I could not. Ultimately had to go forward to initiate the furler drum / line by hand. At other times, while letting the genny out, the furler would jam, necessitating shaking it out by repeatedly furling in / out.

While at anchor, I spent the afternoon working on the problem, which included:

Lowered mast to install a shackle at the top of the forestay to give clearance for the halyard top fitting. I had done the same about seven years ago when I saw the horn of the halyard top fitting catching on other rigging. This action solve the problem the first time, but not recently.

Fully disassembled / cleaned / inspected the spool assembly. Everything looked normal except the hairy gunk that collected inside poly bearing. After reassembly, the jamming issue still persists.

I am observing the furler line bunching up and jamming within the upper half of the cup / spool. I've tried different techniques of slow / fast / tensioned / loose handling of the furler line and geeny sheets while furling in & out to no affect. I've considered the angle of approach of the furler line to the spool, but this has been a relative non-issue for many seasons now.

The furling line is 3/16" dacron line as specified by the manufacturer, replaced seven years ago.

Looking for input / ideas from anyone who has experienced this issue.

[Tomfoolery]

I am observing the furler line bunching up and jamming within the upper half of the cup / spool. <snip> I've considered the angle of approach of the furler line to the spool, but this has been a relative non-issue for many seasons now.

What exactly is that angle (known as the fleet angle), since you didn't specify? It should be zero, at the midpoint between the drum flanges.

[BOAT]

Loose Forestay, old and frayed (sticky) fulrling line, and old worn out sails can all cause trouble with these things. Blown out limpy sails will furl like an old bed sheet and make the whole thing twist top to bottom, (head to tack, as you guys would say). If your sails is old and blown out make sure the sheet is really loose and the sail is flopping in the breeze and that may help get it furled in. If the line is old and frayed the surface gets sticky and waxy and makes it roll up unevenly. If the forestay is real loose the furling rig will lean into the force of the line pulling it causing the line bind or wrap over itself. Also using the furler half way furled in heavy wind can bury the line into the coil because of tension and cause a clamp like bind where the lead id stuck between two coils.

All common problems I had with my old boat and the 'bucket' style furlers they had back then. I prefer the open reel type furlers like the one that came with 'boat'. It's reel is open so it's easy to see what the line is doing at all times. My sails and rig was so old an floppy on my old A23 that my old bucket style (enclosed) furler caused me so much trouble I removed it and just bagged the jib. Furlers were a new thing back then and I thought I would never have one, but this open reel that I got wiht boat works reall good so I think I will keep it.

I looked at the furler on a race boat over here once when the guy was servicing it and it was a HUGE reel - like 24 inches in diameter.

[bwygirl]

If you replaced the furling line 7 years ago, your problem may simply be that that line has gotten too stiff now and rolls to a bigger size than it did when it was new and flexible.

[Highlander]

When I had that issue with my CDI Furlers I found the cause was that there was too much twist in the furling line causing it to bunch up in the drum , remedy was too unfurl the the line & by running it through my hands several times until all the twist was taken out of the line usually required doing this 6-7 times then it would be fine for the rest of the season

J

[BOAT]

When I had that issue with my CDI Furlers I found the cause was that there was too much twist in the furling line causing it to bunch up in the drum , remedy was too unfurl the the line & by running it through my hands several times until all the twist was taken out of the line usually required doing this 6-7 times then it would be fine for the rest of the season

J

Yeah, that one too - When the sail is opening up it's winding up the line on the reel and I often hold the line in my hand as it's doing that to keep a little tension on the line because just like Highlander said there can be a twist in the line and it looks like a little knot and it will wind right up into the coil in the reel and it will cause a jam when trying to pull the line back out (when you try to furl the sail back in). That's why I like the open reel - it's easy to see whats going on.

[RobertB]

I recently installed the CDI FF2. I needed to remove the core from the furler line to remove some bulk from the line. It has worked well since.

[BOAT]

Now if we can just come up with a good furling main we would be in business. The MAC is too tender to handle a main that furls into the mast - what is needed is an engineer genius that can make a new boom for the MAC that is light (carbon) and does not need to be removed from the mast to trailer (fold up against the mast) and can roll the main (or crumple, or fold or stack or whatever) the main into the boom.

[RobertB]

Using a main sail boom pack (Sumner's?), what is then needed is a redesigned gooseneck.

[beene]

All I can think of is:

Too many wraps on the drum before starting to roll in the sail

Line is too thick

G

[K9Kampers]

I am observing the furler line bunching up and jamming within the upper half of the cup / spool. <snip> I've considered the angle of approach of the furler line to the spool, but this has been a relative non-issue for many seasons now.

What exactly is that angle (known as the fleet angle), since you didn't specify? It should be zero, at the midpoint between the drum flanges.

Standard set up which hasn't changed in 14 years. I'll verify the angle when I step again. Also, for s&g, I changed the orientation of the cup opening in the direction of the furl line as opposed to facing aft - no difference. The furl line has the tendency to wind around the top half of the spool, hence jamming.

[K9Kampers]

I had been thinking about the furl line...wanted to try a different one while on the water but it was 15 feet too short. I'm going to try Highlander's idea before buying a new line.
I thought the line may have swollen, but it still measures 3/16". It is slightly 'hairy' at close inspection as opposed to being frayed as suggested.

Sail's not worn - 6 seasons old, forestay is tight.

[Tomfoolery]

The furl line has the tendency to wind around the top half of the spool, hence jamming.

Sounds like the fairlead has to be moved closer, or made shorter, or some of both. The line has to hit the middle of the drum at 90 degrees to the drum centerline, which is also the forestay CL.

[Catigale]

Andrew..have you lifted the cup and inspected the turnbuckle to make sure it is ok?

The Torlon bearing upgrade on the FF2 is great but do you do have to rinse it in salt water use...maybe try that upgrade.

[K9Kampers]

I am unable to post photos showing the issues I am experiencing with my furler.

Answers to ideas suggested here...

The turnbuckle is OK - cotter pins proper and taped.

Nearest fairlead location is 9" from drum. Test routing of furl line thru bow cleat to simulate closer (4.5") fairlead location yields similar results but causes line to spool on bottom half.

Only one wrap on drum.

There was no twist in the line but I tried Highlander's technique for s&g and it did not change anything.

Solution: tired a 5/32" poly cord and things work fine again. I'll be buying a better quality 5/32 line to use.

Thanks for the help.