Help for restoring a MacGregor 26X, model year 2000

[Retcoastie]

Well, I take a shot. In the first photo, 1 & 2 appear to be genoa turning blocks that go on the tracks on the sides of the cockpit. 3 & 4 appear to be jib turning blocks that go on the tracks on top of the cabin. 8 & 9 appear to be furler line blocks like the ones in #2 in the Rigging 1 pics. 6 and/or 7 could be used in the furler also as in #3 of Rigging 1 or as part of an reefing system where the reefing line is fed back to the cockpit. 5 could be used with A & B as part of a traveler system, its hard to tell how much line is on A or B. 5 could also be a spare block for the main sheet, the boom vang, or an adjustable backstay. C appears to be a water filter wrench. Does the boat have a water filter with a cartridge in a plastic case. D & E appear to be pipe holders that may have come with a water filter but are not being used.

I'll try to get my pics up here tomorrow.

Ken

[Tomfoolery]

"b" in the second pic may be for the MRS, with 5 or 6 parts of line, which is how I set mine up.

[eco]

Retcoastie thank you for your reply. I will post some clarifications after the weekend. My photos should have included a ruler next to the items for comparison purposes, and of course the length of the lines. About "c" yes, there is water filter under the sink. I will check that out.

Tomfoolery thank you too. The items "a" and "b" are identical if I am not wrong. But I will post more details after this weekend.

I still cannot see where "5" fits. That connector hanging from the block should fit somewhere specific. May I assume that this is not a standard fitting on ?

[Tomfoolery]

Rigging 2
Here is the boom/mainsheet details . They seem OK, but are they as the original?

This is the OEM main sheet arrangement. The 3-sheave blocks with becket and cam cleats (items A and B) are probably an 'upgrade' a PO did. Maybe one for the vang, though it's way overkill, or more likely, one for the MRS, as I speculated.

Fiddle blocks are better for things like the sheet because the in-plane sheaves don't twist like side-by-side blocks will when the pull is off-center. But if you want to use those 3-sheave blocks, they can be rigged in a quarter turn arrangement, so the lead line comes through the middle sheave of the block with the cam cleat. That's assuming the cam cleat can be moved to align with the middle sheave. Here's a sketch of rigging 6 parts with a quarter twist. The bottom block would be at the top and vice-versa in the case of the main sheet and the MRS. The MRS doesn't need the cam cleat if using a cabin roof winch and/or some other method of securing the line. Use the center sheave for the live end, which even with 5 parts of line will have a LOT of load on it (relatively speaking), and the rigging will run nice and straight.



I'm dropping the mast this weekend in preparation for travel to the MMOR ( ) so I'll take some shots of my MRS in service. If I remember.

That last one you asked about, with the odd mount, looks like one of the original fiddle blocks (top one from the main sheet) and has probably been retasked to work as a fairlead of some sort. It's obviously set up to clamp around something large, though I can't imagine what. That arrangement is not part of the original rigging, other than the fiddle block.

[Tomfoolery]

Here's my MRS set up. You can see the two blocks at 90 degrees, with the live end coming out from the center sheave. Attachment to the deck is via an eye strap bolted to the deck, which hopefully yours has. The black line is the spinnaker halyard.

[Tomfoolery]

85 year old FIL, keeping his hand in boating.

Line runs back to the cockpit and through a rope clutch that usually holds the main halyard. A turn or two around a winch drum allows lowering the mast with no effort, though even raising only takes one hand (no winch for raising) if I'm feeling strong. Ball-bearing blocks, large sheaves, and five parts of line make it very easy. The original fiddle blocks were not so easy, as the sheaves had plain (sleeve) bearings, were small (more rope bending friction), and only four parts of line.