Look closely at the pic - I tried to (quickly) show a loop tied into the line. The line is not cut. Look inside the loop and you can see the line under it, with the single block laying on top of it, and continuing on to the cleat.
The way it's sketched, which agrees with your description, gives you a 3:1 advantage, assuming the line passes through the cleat (from 1 to 2) and can slide freely.
Woulda made a nicer pic, but it's time consuming (especially curvy things like knots), and though I'm bored at work, I have to do some useful work today.
So you cleated or tied it, or put a stopper knot in it, at the cleat? Running just 2-parts then, with the 'tail' after the loop terminated at the cleat but going slack when you raise the CB?
Tomfoolery wrote:So you cleated or tied it, or put a stopper knot in it, at the cleat? Running just 2-parts then, with the 'tail' after the loop terminated at the cleat but going slack when you raise the CB?
I must be missing something - I need to send a picture but I just can't get to it right now - I must be really really really bad at talking.
BOAT wrote:That's not the way i do it.
I did not do it that way because I did not want to CUT my daggerboard line. Making the line that short seemed like a bad idea because if the daggerboard ever fell through it would take all the line right down in a hurry. The way I did it there is no need to cut the stock daggerboard line.
Boat, come on. The daggerboard is not going to fall out of the boat if you have the second safety line attached to the daggerboard. As far as falling thru, the stock setup uses a knot to limit travel, the modified one with a block also has a knot to limit travel. How can the length of the line really make a difference??
I understand you may have another way but there is more than one good way to do this. I made my mod to minimize cost and keep as simple as possible. Plus, it really works.
BOAT wrote:That's not the way i do it.
I did not do it that way because I did not want to CUT my daggerboard line. Making the line that short seemed like a bad idea because if the daggerboard ever fell through it would take all the line right down in a hurry. The way I did it there is no need to cut the stock daggerboard line.
Boat, come on. The daggerboard is not going to fall out of the boat if you have the second safety line attached to the daggerboard. As far as falling thru, the stock setup uses a knot to limit travel, the modified one with a block also has a knot to limit travel. How can the length of the line really make a difference??
I understand you may have another way but there is more than one good way to do this. I made my mod to minimize cost and keep as simple as possible. Plus, it really works.
Because I do not want to shorten the stock line - sometimes I want to use the line in the stock fashion and I can just untie the loop and the whole thing goes right back to the way it was from the factory.
Same deal with the rudders, I put turn blocks on those without cutting any of the stock lines. I am not doing a very good job at explaining how I did it - I must be missing a step or a part of the process that I forgot about - I will try to get some pictures today for you guys - I just can't leave my desk right now because of work stuff. (They are killing me today!)
The stock line on my boat is probably the cheapest possible. I have no compunctions about cutting it or replacing it. So I might just do this mod but I'll see what boats idea looks like. My daggerboard does still have the safety lanyard on it which I have never messed with.
We all have our little marine phobias. With some sailors it's propane, or malfunctioning bilge pumps. Boats is obviously losing the board out the bottom of the boat. Mine is an abrading away of the gelcoat inside the trunk leading to osmosis blisters that then bind the board keeping it from being loweRed (or lost out the bottom) so I usually just head up a bit until I can pull it up easily
Ixneigh wrote: Mine is an abrading away of the gelcoat inside the trunk leading to osmosis blisters that then bind the board keeping it from being loweRed (or lost out the bottom) so I usually just head up a bit until I can pull it up easily
Am I missing something? Are you saying that this mechanical advantage is for raising the daggerboard while it's under a load? I always head up before raising my daggerboard (a practice left over from sailing dinghies) but it still takes quite a bit of force, especially when the board is filled with water. I've been considering adding a 2:1 mechanical advantage but have so far gotten by with grabbing the line between the turning block and the cam cleat and pulling it to the side then taking up the slack through the cleat.
btw. I think my marine phobia would be galvanic corrosion.
Neo wrote:Make it good photos BOAT ... I'm keen to know too
Hope your not just pulling my dagger board
OKAY OKAY I FINALLY FIGURED OUT WHERE I WAS WRONG!! I knew I must have had it wrong because tomfoolery was asking a lot of questions and tomfoolery has never been wrong once in the history of the website so i knew i must have had something screwed up AND I DID!!
the picture tomfoolery did was right - the line is sliding inside the cleat. That's the part I just could not picture in my brain so I went out there an looked and sure enough it is sliding (not so sure I like it to be sliding and I think now that I realize that I will be adding another single block to the whole thing!)
I think I will just tie another single block to the cleat. Then the rope will not be sliding - it will be rolling.
Let's wait and see if that meets tomfoolery's approval - he might come up with a better system drawing. I just did not want to cut my original DB line. I would prefer not to cut it.
BOAT wrote:OKAY OKAY I FINALLY FIGURED OUT WHERE I WAS WRONG!! I knew I must have had it wrong because tomfoolery was asking a lot of questions and tomfoolery has never been wrong once in the history of the website so i knew i must have had something screwed up AND I DID!!
Uhmm, I wouldn't say that. I just do this sort of thing for a living (crane design and heavy rigging and hydraulic/hydrostatic system design and big winch design and heavy lifting schemes and such) so it's easy for me to envision since I'm envisioning similar things all day, every day, but that doesn't mean you should believe everything (or anything) I say. Or anyone else, for that matter, at least if your life depended on it.
BOAT wrote:OKAY OKAY I FINALLY FIGURED OUT WHERE I WAS WRONG!! I knew I must have had it wrong because tomfoolery was asking a lot of questions and tomfoolery has never been wrong once in the history of the website so i knew i must have had something screwed up AND I DID!!
Uhmm, I wouldn't say that. I just do this sort of thing for a living (crane design and heavy rigging and hydraulic/hydrostatic system design and big winch design and heavy lifting schemes and such) so it's easy for me to envision since I'm envisioning similar things all day, every day, but that doesn't mean you should believe everything (or anything) I say. Or anyone else, for that matter, at least if your life depended on it.
enough of that crap - i know you can design a better trap so we are all waiting for a drawing that does not require us to cut our lines. Can it be done without sliding in the cleat or do we need another block?
BOAT wrote:I think I will just tie another single block to the cleat. Then the rope will not be sliding - it will be rolling.
That's what I would do. Or mount a thin stainless tab under the block to mount a cheek block to. Or something like that. No need for more holes that way. But just looping a single block onto the cleat, through the hole, would be the quickest and easiest.
