Winterizing for leaving in Chesapeak slip?

[Catigale]

Most of the RV gate valves used on the Mac ballast tank seep so if you empty the ballast tank I think it will refill in a week or so.

[Russ]

Most of the RV gate valves used on the Mac ballast tank seep so if you empty the ballast tank I think it will refill in a week or so.

I sure hope not. Those gate valves are normally used to keep the poop in the tank. I'd hate to think they leak that stuff out.

[Catigale]

The poop stays in.

It's the mount to the hull that leaks

[Russ]

The poop stays in.

It's the mount to the hull that leaks

Good point. We left our ballast empty for a few weeks. Stayed dry. YMMY

[warren631]

To close this thread - I decided to bring her home single handed last Sunday morning. Motored from the slip to the public ramp at 3 AM, walked her onto the trailer, got her ready to trailer by 8 AM, couldn't drive more than 45 on the highways due to sway (forgot the Mac-Bump), finally got home at 10 AM. Got stuck in the wet grass in my back yard on a slight slope, but a neighbor with a 4WD helped me and I could finally relax by Noon.

[ULLR]

I am working on winterizing my 26m.....I noticed when I drained the ballast the valve is not at the lowest point and it leaves 1-2 inches in the middle of the hull if you tilt the trailer back. Will it hurt to leave it in? It will freeze for sure as we hit -30c at times in the winter. (First year with the boat). I did figure out the auto fogging feature on my etec 60 which is a bonus...

[Bilgemaster]

I am working on winterizing my 26m.....I noticed when I drained the ballast the valve is not at the lowest point and it leaves 1-2 inches in the middle of the hull if you tilt the trailer back. Will it hurt to leave it in? It will freeze for sure as we hit -30c at times in the winter. (First year with the boat). I did figure out the auto fogging feature on my etec 60 which is a bonus...

A "puddling" of 1-2 inches (about 5 metric Dekamoles) water in the ballast is probably not going to harm anything, even at -30 Celsius (about minus 20 Imperial Macaroons), but if you're worried, you could always dump a bottle of that orange or pink RV antifreeze (not the car engine stuff!) into the breather hole.

Other ballast care tips drawn from past postings to this forum include: leaving the breather vent and stern valve open for a bit to let it air out. Come spring, some folks add a quart or so of bleach or a crumbled pool bleach tablet through the breather hole to a full ballast tank to take care of any critters, sentient slime or other undesirables who may have taken up residence in there (like invasive Zebra Mussels).

Lots of other great winterization and engine care tips to be found in those old postings...

[Wind Chime]

... but if you're worried, you could always dump a bottle of that orange or pink RV antifreeze (not the car engine stuff!) into the breather hole.

Lots of other great winterization and engine care tips to be found in those old postings...

Just remember anything you "put in" the ballast tank must "come out" - so please consider options to get any toxic potions out without getting into the water to harm the fishes and fowls

[ULLR]

I am pretty sure it would be ok as is as long as there is room for expansion when it freezes, just wanted to make sure no one had any bad experiences...I'll surf past posts as well. The rv antifreeze would work as well, just have to make sure I is "friendly".

[Catigale]

If you run the numbers you can't practically add enough antifreeze to protect the full ballast tank

[ULLR]

Ended up tilting the boat up as High as I could on the bow to get all the water to the stern and then used a 1/4 plastic airline with brass fitting on one end to get it to sink to the bottom of the water. Slid it in through ballast drain and then siphoned the rest of the water out. Took 1/2 hr or more but no more than a few litres left now.

[seahouse]

Ended up tilting the boat up as High as I could on the bow to get all the water to the stern and then used a 1/4 plastic airline with brass fitting on one end to get it to sink to the bottom of the water. Slid it in through ballast drain and then siphoned the rest of the water out. Took 1/2 hr or more but no more than a few litres left now.

Yup. It is unlikely that a bottle of anything added to the vent hole at the bow will make it to the remaining ballast water in the stern (EXTREME agitation required, lol). There are several half-bulkheads (ribs/ spars) that form a grid inside the M ballast tank that each trap water and prevent it from draining completely (and the gate valve is not flush with the floor of the ballast tank) even if you drain it on a steep ramp.

But there is a draft angle (think ice cube trays) to the sides of these ribs (needed to facilitate their manufacturing) and the remaining water is shallow, so there is very little damaging sideways expanding force when the water freezes.

But of course it is good to get as much water out of there as is easily practical.

- B.

[Russ]

Why not leave the ballast valve open and let it evaporate?
Or why not dump rock salt in there to lower freezing temp?

Agree that a little water left has plenty of room to expand when frozen.

[ULLR]

Yup. It is unlikely that a bottle of anything added to the vent hole at the bow will make it to the remaining ballast water in the stern (EXTREME agitation required, lol). There are several half-bulkheads (ribs/ spars) that form a grid inside the M ballast tank that each trap water and prevent it from draining completely (and the gate valve is not flush with the floor of the ballast tank) even if you drain it on a steep ramp.

But there is a draft angle (think ice cube trays) to the sides of these ribs (needed to facilitate their manufacturing) and the remaining water is shallow, so there is very little damaging sideways expanding force when the water freezes.

But of course it is good to get as much water out of there as is easily practical.

- B.

Good to know about the ribs...I wasn't to worried but it probably did amount to 40-50 litres of water left. Had I known there was likely more trapped elsewhere in the tank I may not have wasted my time...just killing time anyway as it is hard water season up here.

[warren631]

Just asking - is there a cheap way to raise the boat up out of the water but keep it in its slip. I know of boat lifts but they are high cost and need installation and not allowed at many marinas. Are there any kind of low-cost inflatable bags/pontoons that can be slipped under the boat and inflate with an air compressor and raise the boat up out of the water? Maybe I will patent the idea?