Tacking in high winds

[Neo]

Got to fly the new Jib, just once, last weekend. I furled her out but a few mins later the rope in the CDI drum jammed on the way in and I had to whined it all the way back by hand.

From what I observed on the one time flight.....

@ Clew is much lower that the old Genoa.... So I can't understand why the sailmaker said I should use the Genoa track?.... So I used the Jib tracks.
@ The new sail is sooooo firm and crisp it just popped straight into shape.... A quick trim (by hand) and the green / red lower tells were flying dead straight..... Too easy
@ But the Jib was still fouling heavily on the bow rails and the safety wire .... Is that normal?

I think the CDI jammed because fairlead angle is wrong and because I put too many leading winds on the drum....What's the best type and size of rope to use with the CDI FF2?
I've now put a SS shackle in the middle of the portside cleat. I'm hoping that will fix the angle entry problem.

Below is a shot of my wild day out (snapped by the admiral). I was too busy trying to fix the furler to get a shot of the new Jib before the furler jammed .... Next time

[Tomfoolery]

I think the CDI jammed because fairlead angle is wrong and because I put too many leading winds on the drum....What's the best type and size of rope to use with the CDI FF2?
I've now put a SS shackle in the middle of the portside cleat. I'm hoping that will fix the angle entry problem.

The manual says 5/32" or 3/16" double-braid dacron, or larger (for better 'hand') if you de-core the portion that winds onto the drum.

The little graphic showing 90 degree entry angle to the mid-point of the drum is on page 10.

http://www.sailrite.com/PDF/FF2-Online-Manual.pdf

[K9Kampers]

Neo-

I had the same issue back in 2015. After bouncing it around here (refer to archives) my solution was to just install a new furler line and a new stanchion mounted fairlead.

The previous fairlead had developed a wear groove that I suspect was causing the line to wear leading to it jamming. This is my 3rd furler line in my eleven years of owning this sixteen year old boat.

A fresh 5/32" furler line has worked well since.

[Neo]

Thanks Guys.

My Failead was replaced a few months back with a Stainless Steel inner one. But I'm interested in your stanchion mounted fairlead .... Do you have a photo or weblink to that?

Getting a 90 degree entry angle seems a tough call Tom. If all else fails I might need to install a another Fairlead in between the SS Bow Cleats ... But I hate working under that area

All the best.
Neo

[Highlander]

if u r not already doing it mac just runs the furling line through the port side bow cleat my dealer installed the pulley as seen in these pis
http://i844.photobucket.com/albums/ab1/ ... 812c1d.jpg

http://i844.photobucket.com/albums/ab1/ ... 53eb94.jpg

J

[K9Kampers]

The stanchion mounted fairlead is mounted on the port aft leg of the bow pulpit and is secured with a hose clamp. It is the second in line from the furler.

[Neo]

The stanchion mounted fairlead is mounted on the port aft leg of the bow pulpit and is secured with a hose clamp. It is the second in line from the furler.

Thanks but I can't see how that would alter the rope entry angle into the CDI drum? .... Or does is have other benefits?

Thanks Highlander. Nice idea about using the block.

I think I'll have to buy some rope. I can get "Yacht Rope" (High Spec, DOUBLE BRAID WITH DYNEEMA CORE) but can't find anything that states dacron .... Is it important?

All the best.
Neo

[K9Kampers]

My stanchion fairlead doesn't affect the entry angle as it is aft of the one that does. I replaced that fairlead with one with an SS inner liner. The original did not have an SS liner and developed a wear groove which I suspect lead to wearing of the furler line causing it to jam.

The location of my forward most fairlead (deck mounted) is just aft of the port bow cleat.

[Tomfoolery]

I think I'll have to buy some rope. I can get "Yacht Rope" (High Spec, DOUBLE BRAID WITH DYNEEMA CORE) but can't find anything that states dacron .... Is it important?

I rather doubt it. Just use some double-braid. Stretch really isn't an issue unless you furl the sail to reduce size, but the sail will be less than ideal anyway at that point, so a little drum movement under load wouldn't (in my opinion) be an issue.

But you must have a fairlead to put that line at 90 degrees to the drum, at the midpoint of the drum, under load. A standup block mounted to the deck, or a bulls eye fairlead with SS liner, is the only way I can see for that to work correctly. I think the bulls eye would be ok IF the angle it induces in the furling line is shallow, and if you use one, it must have the SS liner or the line will wear a groove in it pretty quick.

This is the best I can do for pics of the fairlead.

In the first one, the furling line is slack as the picture is really of the MRS rigging (zoomed in and cropped for the fairlead), so the block is standing up, as it should, but will lean to the port side when it's under load, leading the furling line fair to the center of the drum surface.



In the second pic, the line is taught.

[Neo]

Thanks Tom.

I love you spring loaded standing block but it is might be harder to achieve on an because the cleats are close to the tip of the bow and much closer together too.
I need to find/make a good solution for this soon because I'm keen to fly my new Jib

I've ordered some Double Braided Dyneema core rope mainly because it stated it was stiffer than standard polyester core ropes and I'm thinking the stiffness should reduce the the wind-in (Jib out) tangling.

All the best.
Neo

[NiceAft]

For my Genoa roller furler on my 2005 , I use the little loop on the midship stanchion (what is used to attach a shroud for the mast raising system) as a fairlead. I have done this since first owning Nice Aft.

The line from the drum first passes around the outside (on the port side)of the first vertical post of the bow pulpit, and then straight to, and through, the loop. It then goes straight to the cleat near the port winch. The only problem I have had is using a line too thick, and the drum jammed. Once changing to a thinner line. I have never had a problem.

Ray

[Neo]

Thanks Ray,

From what you've described you're using your portside bow cleat as the last fairlead into the drum. A number of people say that works for them but I'd real like to find a solution that does interfere with the use of either cleat because I keep mooring ropes (ready to deploy) on those.

Once changing to a thinner line. I have never had a problem.

I have a thin (2or3mm) rope at the moment but I've just ordered some stiff 5mm rope. I my jib takes less turns to wind out then my old Genoa so I'm hopping that will work for me

[Neo]

Going around the front pulpit and under the port bow cleat, using my new 5mm Dyneema Core rope, worked really well yesterday ... Thanks for your help guys.

Also got the Jib and the new Main flying well too.
Winds were lite yesterday but my two new sails popped into shape even when there was next to no wind

[kadet]

Nice

[Tomfoolery]

What's that bullseye fairlead for, if not for the furler?