Getting ready to detail my 26M

[bedouin]

Today while washing it down (it has been in the sun on the water for over 3 years) there was no way to get the dirt and grime off without some light pressure washing. Hull cleaner did not even touch some of the nasty stuff. The top side has not been detailed properly in years. I have read pressure washing that may damage the gel coat, is that true? I used an electric pressure washer lucky enough to get 1200 psi?

I noticed some spider cracks in the topside gel coat, will that come out by compounding?

Anyone use ON and Off on the non skid deck before? I bought some and thought I would give it a try.

My fast blue hull is heavily oxidized and I am using the 3M Marine rubbing compound and was wondering if I should avoid the plastic windows? I am guessing it would scratch them pretty bad.

After I get a good shine I will go to 3M Finesse It II wonder if that will work on the windows. I have seen some plastic polish so that may be better.

Once I am done with the polish I will do a coat or two of Collinite wax by hand.

Would love to hear any comments and or advice.

Thank you.

Matthew

[dlandersson]

Would you like to practice on my boat before you start yours?

[Russ]

On and Off will clean well, but it's nasty stuff. Wear protection, good mask, ventilation.
I use On/Off only on the bottom and waterline scum.

I discovered this miracle stuff. Parts of my blue hull were oxidized and compound didn't do much about it. Then I tried this.

https://www.amazon.com/3M-Marine-Restor ... 1532800384



Invest it a good buffer. I bought this one. Don't cheap out and you will be glad. You need the high RPMs that hand buffing can't achieve as well.
https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWP849-7- ... B004W1WGIC

Then get a quality lambs wool pad.
https://www.amazon.com/Pack-Buffing-Com ... 1532801371

Quality cost. But the results are worth it.

This stuff isn't like wax you've used before. You put it on wet and then buff dry.
AMAZING results. My oxidized blue looked better than new. I swear by this stuff now If am singing its praises from rooftops.

I used it on everything. Windows, topsides. Great stuff. Highly recommended.

It's probably not a good "wax". I put a coat of good marine wax after the polish.

--Russ

[Russ]

I wish I took before photos.

The black was all oxidized and gray. The blue was faded really bad especially on the transom. Compound alone didn't work.

After:

[paula_ke]

I used the McGuire kit. Two compound types plus a marine wax Got a good buffer, lambs wool pads and went at it. Made my fast white hull shiny and took the grey out of the black stripes. I used vinegar, water and regular window cleaner for the windows. Pretty happy with the results.

[Wayne nicol]

really sorry to hear that you guys got the sluggish blue boats, they dont pull chics nearly as well as the lightning white ones.
yup, i wouldnt use the rubbing compound on the windows, and no the compound wont remove the spider cracks, if a few cracks become an issue down the line, they should be repaired, can you identify why you are getting the cracks, is the deck flexing a bit at that point.
very minor spider checks would be a huge concern for me, but just keep an eye on them, i can help you through a repair process, if they ever get to that point.

[bedouin]

I did buy some white gelcoat repair from BWY just for fun, maybe I can use that to fill in the spider cracks.

I think because the boat has been in direct sunlight out on my boat slip for 5 years now have not helped matters....

[Russ]

If they spider cracks aren't that bad, I'd leave them. I have few and try not to look at them.

Otherwise, here's a link on repair

https://www.boatus.com/magazine/2011/december/diy.asp

[bedouin]

Nice gelcoat repair video. Today after spending some more time over at the boat cleaning I see several move spider cracks. Some on the hinged seat where the gas canisters go and some really big ones on the hatch... gonna be a never-ending job.

Well, I got the cockpit clean enough to try some compounding for the first time in my life (yep 60 years young and never compounded a car or boat).

I did not have my 3M marine compound with me but my friend had given me some car compounding stuff and said it would work well enough. I tried a bit on the sides of the cockpit above the seating and it brought some shine but not a lot for the work I was doing.

Could be just me, my pad or my buffer or all three.

After work tomorrow I will try again with the 3M compound. If that does not do it I may try some wet sanding.

I bought this boat in 2013 and it has never been detailed since then (well at least the cockpit area), so maybe wet sanding will be the trick.

I find my 8" pad a bit big for the cockpit so I will need to find a 5" attachment??

Love to hear any tips or tricks. I have been following the advice from Maine Sail, Tips for Compound, polis and wax...

I can see this is going to be a job... but I really want to be able to do it myself.... at least once!

Matthew

[bedouin]

BTW RussMT your is exactly like mine (same year and same fast blue hull - may not pull chics nearly as well according to Wayne in his lighting fast white hull) and it is nice to know that someday my boat may come close to looking like yours....

[Wayne nicol]

have to admit, i actually really like the blue hulls, but there were none available when i was buying.

[bedouin]

The look nice when they are polished and shiny but mine is so oxidized it looks white!

[1st Sail]

New Glass 2 is top rated by Practical Sailor. I quit waxing two years ago with no regrets. I used all the popular marines waxes for years with the exception of Collinite so no experience there. Now I just use soap and water/soft brush, then power wash/rinse, buff with 3M 000 compound to clean and wash, towel dry and apply 1-2 coat of New Glass2. The gelcoat is sealed and shinny for the season. I never found a marine wax that would last more than a few months on the stripes before they oxidized again. And I definitely prepped the strips before waxing. Never again. NG2 is so easy most don't believe it works. It is lower viscosity than Polyglow so you don't get the streaking. 4-6 coats initially then 2 coats seasonally.

[bedouin]

Ugh... I have New Glass 2 but was afraid to use it. I have read and read articles where some swear by it and some hate it...

This stuf is enough to make you crazy... all I want to do is go sailing!

[Russ]

I would NOT WET SAND. That should be a last resort. Seriously, try the 3m restorer with a buffer. The job will go super fast and you'll wonder why you struggled with hand compounding.

--Russ