Backing original 26X trailer

[Lucky Drifter]

Hi All has anyone worked out a good way to turn off the hydraulic override Titan brakes on an original Macgregor trailer. Most trailers have a steel flap that you turn over to stop the brakes engaging when reversing. I don't know how to do this with our trailer. Any ideas greatly appreciated. Lucky Drifter.

[Capt Smitty]

Lucky Drifter. Don't know what year your trailer is, but this is what I did to my '02. Your configuration may vary. There is a pair of 'loops' on the front of the sliding tongue, up against the box that contains the brake master cylinder. I was able to put a large bolt thru the loops, thus preventing the tongue from moving and pushing the master cylinder. You can also install a brake-line lock-out solenoid. Drag racers use these to lock the front brakes ON when they do their smoky burnouts. I used one, between the master and brake line, to lock the brakes OFF (wire to back-up lights or a switch on tow rig), or I did until I stepped on it and broke it off. After the fact, I made a steel cover over the solenoid and brake line that I can stand on when launching. You might be able to use a mechanical valve inline, turn a lever to block fluid flow.

[Lucky Drifter]

Hi Capt Smihy I have tried blocking the two loops but with really soft wood as I didn't want to damage anything . The softwood crushed. I was backing up a short steep hill to ours which is why I want to get this working. Good to hear you used a bolt. The best may be your idea of a shutoff valve. Thanks Lucky Drifter

[Tomfoolery]

You can use a 5/8" dia. hitch pin. It can fall out, so if you need it to stay, use a little rigging wire to hold it. Or a bolt, but the head may damage the sheet metal on that old Dico (OEM) or Titan (identical current model) coupler.

Lockout valves come in two flavors - normally open, which close electrically to block flow to the brakes when in reverse, and normally closed which open a bypass loop back to the reservoir when energized. Simplest is the NO version, as it just goes in line, but if you stop downhill and put it in reverse, the existing pressure is trapped and the brakes are on. The NC version vents the actuator and the brakes to tank, so no pressure can develop, even if aimed down hill initially. But that style requires reworking the reservoir for a short bypass line, which most folks would rather not bother with.

When I first reworked all my brakes to scrap the rusted drums and go to disc, my new coupler came with the NO solenoid installed, so I wired it to the running lights with an inline plug. To disable the brakes, I'd stop on flat ground, plug in the solenoid, and turn on the running lights. My vehicle only had a 4-flat connection, and I didn't want to tap into the reverse lights.

Subsequent vehicles have and had a 7-pin RV type connection, so I reworked my trailer electrics to take advantage of the reverse light connection on one of the pins. I also added a backup light to my light bar on the OB with a 5-flat connector to the trailer lights. Works a treat. But I still have to remember to not put it in reverse right after stopping hard(ish), and to let it roll enough that the coupler opens and releases the brakes, or I'll be pushing the trailer in reverse like it's going uphill. Unlike even standard drum brakes, which work better in forward than reverse*, disc brakes don't care which way they're turning.

If I know I have to stop facing down a steep hill before backing, I put the hitch pin in on flat ground, then proceed down the hill. I do this every fall when I back it into my inlaws' driveway for the winter.

*And free-backing drum brakes hardly drag at all in reverse, which is why they're called that.

[Lucky Drifter]

Thanks Tomfoolery that does explain things I did not know. I have a Titan Model 60 Surg-O- Matic coupler with I assume free backing Titan drum brakes. The trailer is a 2002 original for a 26X. I have keep the rust out by repainting with a good epoxy paint every two years and have just had the brake slave cylinders re-sleeved with stainless steel as the brakes kept rusting up and seizing. The free backing must work OK as I can push the boat and trailer up hill in reverse. It does take a bit of effort but I am using a Toyota Landcruiser in low range. Don't really understand how the free backing works but it sure is simple. Thanks for the advice Lucky Drifter