Raymarine EV-100 Wheel Pilot -Mac26X

[Starscream]

Almost done the wiring.

The manuals added some confusion. They call for a separate RF grounding wire (which is included as a third conductor in the supplied Seatalk red/black power wire) and for another RF grounding wire for the ACU-100. For the ACU-100 the manual suggests that it is "important" to have the RF, and later on it says "If the unit does not require a separate RF...". Then it says at least #10 gauge wiring for the RF ground, and the connector is sized for about 16 gauge with no possible way to connect 10 gauge.

I sent this to Raymarine:
Referring to document number 87180-4, the installation manual for the ACU-100 that drives the EV-100 autopilot. I am in the process of installing in a boat that has no RF ground point, only battery positive and negative.
Page 33, top right, shows a wiring diagram for the ACU-100 that has only a positive and a negative connection. The RF ground connection does not show a wire attached. However:
Page 34 states that "It is important that an effective RF ground is connected to the unit". It also states on page 34 that "If the unit does not require a separate RF Ground (drain) connection, only the power cable's red and black wires need to be connected."
Is an RF ground connection required?
If the answer is Yes, then referring to the Implementation section at the bottom of the middle column on page 34, either #10 AWG or #8 AWG are required to be used for the RF ground wire. Well, neither wire size fits into the connector provided inside the ACU-100.

and I got back this answer:
Perhaps I can help explain. An RF ground is a means of protecting electronics in the event of a lightning strike. It is usually achieved by adding a sacrificial anode to your vessel. However, if you do not have one fitted then you obviously cant connect to it. So, unless you are planning to add this, you can ignore that section. Do not attached the battery GND to it.

So, no RF connection for the ACU-100. HOWEVER, in the other manual for the Seatalk backbone, it says for a vessel without a common grounding point "in this case, if your product's power cable is supplied with a separate drain wire, then it should be connected directly to the battery's negative terminal." So the Seatalkng backbone now has two wires connected directly to the negative bus bolt.

Revised diagram, showing the RF grounding not used for the ACU, but wired for the Seatalkng. The power wires from the ACU aren't supplied anyway so it's not even a real wire that I show in green coming out of the ACU.


Oh, and I was just testing you guys with that positive bus bolt thing. Of course I know it's a negative bus bolt. I was testing you. Seriously. (But at least I checked a wiring diagram before wiring the panel like that).

[Guyc]

Great post Startscream. I’m right across the St Lawrence river from you (the boat elevator post) and want to thank you for your pictures as I’m about to install the very same. Luckily enough, my Evinrude install put the tachometer way down in the pedestal so I’ll have room to put the P70 right just below the steering wheel where the pedestal is angled.

While I’m at it, seriously thinking about adding a Raymarine MFD. Hesitating between the Axiom+7 with Realvision (pricey but more features) or the Element HV. I confess that the new sonars’ ability to create a 3D picture of what’s underneath the boat has considerable geek appeal, not to mention the ability to control the autopilot from Navionics route, iPad replication, etc. Worthy of further discussion no doubt.

For my EV100 install, I’m thinking of putting the backbone and possibly the Ac 100 inside the pedestal, on the bow side wall. I think it would fit and might simplify wiring. What do you think? Would avoid buying an extension for the MFD which apparently comes with a measly 4 ft cable. I already have 12V in there. Another option would be to put the Ac100 inside, underneath the starboard winch, close to where my vintage Eagle depth/fish finder currently resides. Could reuse the power line (not fond of running cables when it can be avoided). Was also contemplating putting the ev 1 there as well (more cabling laziness) but worry about potential interference. Thoughts?

[Starscream]

Great post Startscream. I’m right across the St Lawrence river from you (the boat elevator post) and want to thank you for your pictures as I’m about to install the very same. Luckily enough, my Evinrude install put the tachometer way down in the pedestal so I’ll have room to put the P70 right just below the steering wheel where the pedestal is angled.

While I’m at it, seriously thinking about adding a Raymarine MFD. Hesitating between the Axiom+7 with Realvision (pricey but more features) or the Element HV. I confess that the new sonars’ ability to create a 3D picture of what’s underneath the boat has considerable geek appeal, not to mention the ability to control the autopilot from Navionics route, iPad replication, etc. Worthy of further discussion no doubt.

For my EV100 install, I’m thinking of putting the backbone and possibly the Ac 100 inside the pedestal, on the bow side wall. I think it would fit and might simplify wiring. What do you think? Would avoid buying an extension for the MFD which apparently comes with a measly 4 ft cable. I already have 12V in there. Another option would be to put the Ac100 inside, underneath the starboard winch, close to where my vintage Eagle depth/fish finder currently resides. Could reuse the power line (not fond of running cables when it can be avoided). Was also contemplating putting the ev 1 there as well (more cabling laziness) but worry about potential interference. Thoughts?

Thanks!

I'm waiting for BL Yacht in QC City to deliver my 14 gauge tinned two-conductor wire to finish the job, it's the only thing that's missing to power up the ACR.

The major decision is where to put the wheel motor: if your tach is below the wheel (like mine is) you'll have the same problem that I do and end up with the clutch lever in the aisle between the pedestal and the seat. I recommend spending some time thinking about this to see if you can find a better solution. If you want to see my install you're welcome to wait until we get in the water in April/May and come see it at the PCYC, or if you want to take a road trip to the North Shore you can see it on the trailer any time. It never snowed in this year so I've been able to work on it year-round. Very likely you'll need that M14x100mm bolt, and I have a few spare SS nuts you could have for it.

I thought about the P70 on the pedestal, and the Axiom 7 as well. (BTW, if you are going with the Axiom7 have a look at Defender: even with import and freight fees you'll save hundreds vs. buying it locally, as much as I like supporting local it's a bit of highway robbery.) The reason I didn't mount it there is because of the mainsheet. By law, the mainsheet has to wrap around anything and everything, so to keep the P70 safe I put it in the rear of the cabin-top. I think that's going to make it easier to adjust while underway, because while I'm using the autopilot underway it's unlikely that I'll be at the wheel: more likely I'll be tucked under the dodger. The Axiom 7 is probably going to go on the opposite (port) side of the cabin top. Yes, for the Axiom 7 you have to buy a backbone extension, and an NMEA to SeatalkNG converter cable, which adds to the overall price. The Axiom 7 doesn't have a SeatalkNG spur. I also want the 3D sonar transducer, but I'm going to wait until NEXT christmas.

The pedestal isn't waterproof, so I didn't want anything other than wire in there. I like having my expensive electronics inside the cabin, even though the components are water-resistant. It certainly would simplify the wiring tho, especially if the Axiom7 is also going on your pedestal. All you would need is a singe power wire. I do recommend a new power wire instead of using the 12V that's already in your pedestal, unless you are very sure of its wire gauge, fusing, and distribution. The factory 12V in the pedestal runs on lamp-cord, maybe 18 gauge but probably lighter, and it won't do for the autopilot.

Wiring new stuff on the X is an absolute beee-yotch. Having the backbone and all the instruments in the pedestal would be great from that perspective. Personally I like the look better in the cabin-top, plus all the passengers can share the info and responsibilities, plus...mainsheet! If the Axiom 7 has to go on the pedestal too, then it's going to be on top of the pedestal and be an absolute mainsheet-trap.

Inside beneath the starboard winch...hmmm...I wanna say that the AC100 and EV-1 won't fit in there with all the wiring. That's just my feeling from fooling around in there mounting the P70, not from measurement. It's not easy to get power wiring up there either: possible, but complicated. You have to go all around the bilges, up inside the head, through the aft head wall and then back inside the headliner. 14 gauge would be borderline for that distance, and 12 would be better.

There are certainly better ways to do it than I did, but if you don't want to add anything else I think I did it just about the easiest way possible. I say that because I don't have to wire the Axiom7 yet: my arrangement is going to make that part tough. I'll have to get a backbone cable from under the starboard winch to under the port winch and that is no small feat to accomplish.

Keep in mind that the AC-100 actually drives the wheel motor, and it needs a minimum of 14gauge wire so re-using other wire may not be possible.

No easy answers, sorry. Let me know if you want an in-person walk thru any time.

[Guyc]

Thanks for the reply and the offer to visit. Might take you up on it. Mine is also on the hard under tarp and good to work on, especially in these confined times... Price wise, I like to buy from Binnacle in Halifax. I find their prices competitive, even with Defender, and they only charge GST, a 10% saving right there. Canadian-Maritimes nice too . I thought your SS rod idea was brilliant. Might also get it at MacMaster.

I sailed all of last season with an iPad Air3 attached to a pole in the mast support hole and managed the mainsail all right. The axiom will have a smaller footprint, will give it a shot and tempt Murphy. Can always move it afterwards. My wiring in the pedestal is brand new, good gauge too. Will see once I get the components. Might reach out again then.

I’ve been reading up on the Realvision/sidevision sonars and they seem amazing, almost too good to be true. Can get you side views of up to 500 ft apparently. As you know, crossing the Seaway channel in lake st-louis to pay a visit to Punta Clara can be tense. I’ve been windsurfing that part for decades and know where the thin water is, but actually seeing the rock crops on the MFD would be cool. Given all the boats on the lake, I find the Navionics charts so-so. I think we can improve upon them, as the MFD can apparently keep a record of its sonar readings and add them to the charts.

[Starscream]

Thanks for the reply and the offer to visit. Might take you up on it. Mine is also on the hard under tarp and good to work on, especially in these confined times... Price wise, I like to buy from Binnacle in Halifax. I find their prices competitive, even with Defender, and they only charge GST, a 10% saving right there. Canadian-Maritimes nice too . I thought your SS rod idea was brilliant. Might also get it at MacMaster.

I sailed all of last season with an iPad Air3 attached to a pole in the mast support hole and managed the mainsail all right. The axiom will have a smaller footprint, will give it a shot and tempt Murphy. Can always move it afterwards. My wiring in the pedestal is brand new, good gauge too. Will see once I get the components. Might reach out again then.

I’ve been reading up on the Realvision/sidevision sonars and they seem amazing, almost too good to be true. Can get you side views of up to 500 ft apparently. As you know, crossing the Seaway channel in lake st-louis to pay a visit to Punta Clara can be tense. I’ve been windsurfing that part for decades and know where the thin water is, but actually seeing the rock crops on the MFD would be cool. Given all the boats on the lake, I find the Navionics charts so-so. I think we can improve upon them, as the MFD can apparently keep a record of its sonar readings and add them to the charts.

Any time you are in the area just drop me a PM. We are about 10 minutes northeast of the intersection of highways 15 & 640.

Binnacle has good pricing! I still think Defender is less expensive overall, but maybe Binnacle will be close enough to engage my buy-local satisfaction. Plus no GST either, but some import duties.

[Starscream]

The physical installation and wiring is done. I was waiting for some 14 gauge marine wire to be delivered.

I like the location of the ACU so far, under the head sink. It's relatively well protected and out of the way.

Since I was in there I added a USB outlet just above the ACU for the person sleeping aft-starboard (me).

Powered on, and it looks good. The original 4-circuit breaker panel has been recycled to power the starboard side of the boat. It fits nicely there. I put the ACU and the P70s head unit on separate switches in case I ever want to just see the heading on the P70s without fighting with Wilson. Re-wired the head on the third circuit, and the LED lights and USB switches on the fourth.


Next step is the software setup: teaching Wilson about how far he can turn either way, and so on.

That clutch lever is going to be a problem, sticking out into the aisle. I'll have to fabricate something out of black HDPE to replace it.

[Starscream]

Next step is the dockside setup. Couldn't do it last night at -13C because the clutch slips in the extreme cold, but today at -1 it was nice and tight.

Worked like a charm following the instructions but the hard-over time isn't so obvious. The P70 has a preset of 6 seconds, and this produced a very slow reaction. I upped it to 9 and still slow. Upped it to 27 and it seems not bad.

Richard, Mike, March, do any of you remember what hard-over times you guys used?

[ris]

I am not home so do not have access to the boat or records. I think it was a pretty high number. While watching your install, I am glad we did it 5 years ago as it looks harder and more technical now than when we did it. I guess a few more brain cells have died in the last 5 years.

Richard

[Starscream]

A quick update: today was launch day and in the roughness of banging everything around I discovered that the clutch lever has an extra "detent" that allows it to open even more than was obvious before, so it actually gets almost completely out of the way of the cockpit passage. In the full-open position it protrudes less than an inch past the wheel and looks to be quite manageable.

Now, I wonder if I have time for the sea-calibration phase...

[Spector]

This old thread talks about the hard over time. I set mine by this and it works fine.
viewtopic.php?f=8&t=22520&hilit=Autopilot#p273224

[March]

Hey, sorry I missed this message. Don't rmember what settings I use, but I was also puzzled about the two-step detent. Even half way, it still engaged.
I had decided to bite the bullet and buy a new wheel, with clutch and belt and motor (the old one over-heated at times), I suspect the culprit was the plastic settings of the tubular engine support which are notoriously flimsy; it would be enough for one to crack, the motor wouldn't sit right, it would struggle and over-heat. I plan on dismantling it as a spare, and beef it up with MarineTex--and even get a spare motor. They say an equivalent one for a handdrill is about 10 bucks--but it may be lacking the three diodes on top. Beats 250--which is how much Raymarine wanted to charge to "service the motor"
Let us know how it went

[Starscream]

Hey Spector, thanks for that link.

So Mastreb had his on 14 seconds, but that seemed really slow on mine during the dockside calibration. I'll do a sea-calibration soon and report back. I think I'll set it back to 14 seconds from the current 27, and work from there, based on that thread. I guess it's better to start with a slower wheel spin than a too-fast one.

March, maybe the lever position thing was just me not knowing how it worked: it seems like the clutch is completely disengaged and the lever in a "normal" position when it is sticking straight out radially from the wheel. During installation I didn't realize that the lever could be opened further, so that it almost becomes parallel to the wheel again, where it catches in its "full open" detent. I was happy to find that out yesterday: it still protrudes just a tiny bit into the passageway but is much more manageable than a 3" lever sticking straight out of the side of the wheel.

I sooooo wanted to buy the Axiom 7 MFD this year, with the sonar module, but that'll go on next year's budget.

[Dguy]

Almost finished with the ev100 install in my 26X. Just need to mount the r90s display ad hook up the 2 power cables to the fuse box. Fl/ acu/ all cables are routed and connected and mounted.
Installed 3 way valve today for the two 9 gal. Fuel tanks. Next is the solar vent to be installed in the fwd hatch.

[gyroplanes]

I am late to this party. I bought and installed the EVO a few years ago.
Sadly, I haven't sailed very much and can't add much to the conversation.

EXCEPT
I installed the fluxgate in the console. Maybe I misread the instructions, but I thought the Flux sensor had to be installed near or on the centerline?
Well mine is. Here is the funny part. The side panels were off the console. I finished the wiring and mounting (I also mounted the readout display on the right side of the console, ahead of the throttle) My son buttoned up the boat.
Shakedown was a mastless run, basically to check out the new Suzuki. I played with the EVO and punched the heading hold button. It was flawless and held the GPS heading just fine for 20 minutes. I did not have the manual with me and was just messing around. I put in a heading and got a message that I was something like 40 or more degrees off. I just looked down in disgust and saw the stereo speakers mounted on either side of the console in the plexiglass. Those weak Isogonic lines had no chance at winning against those big speaker magnets.

TIP
Couple of years before I installed the EVO I also installed a hydraulic steering system. I used to hate going up rivers as the wheel had so much play.; I was almost bouncing bank-to-bank (exaggeration) but what a difference it made. I think the kit was around $500. but worth every penny

[rsvpasap]

Just did a software update on my EV-100 wheel pilot and P70. The software update requires doing a "factory reset," recalibration and new sea trial. For me, the sea trial took much longer this time, almost an hour. The software updates combined with a new steering cable make for an immense improvement in the tracking performance of the autopilot.