New to Forum, new to Mac 25 doing restoration

[Jimmyt]

Carburetor: you may still have an issue. It should only need choke for a minute or two as it warms up. After a couple of minutes you should be off choke. Could be the bad gas. Shouldn't have run that through your freshly cleaned carb.
Once I get the new gas and proper oil mix, I'll update, but any thoughts on what is the problem if it still needs choke...?

Water pump: how old is the impeller, or did I miss where you replaced it? 5-7 years max. After that it's a time bomb.
No clue - the motor wasn't pi$$ water at first, I removed the pi$$ tube and cleaned it out, and it then started pi$$ fine, the water was 55 degrees, and the pi$$ tube water was around 85-90 degrees F (kitchen laser thermometer) This leads me to believe the impeller is fine, but perhaps this will be a project I'll want/need to do this winter?

Lower Unit Lube: change it when you acquire the used motor. Check it for water every year and change it per mfrs instructions.
No clue on how to do this - will be a winter project for sure

Carb: if it's still needing choke after warmup, you've got a blocked jet or something is out of adjustment. You'll have to post a pic of the carb at that point so we can tell what you're dealing with.

Water pump: it will pump water right up until the time that all of the impeller blades disintegrate, usually at a very inopportune time.

Lower Unit Lube: very easy job IF THE PLUGS HAVE BEEN REMOVED RECENTLY. The two plugs, drain/fill and vent are the worst part of the job. If you get them out, put anti seize on them when you put them back. This will make you invent new curse words if they are seized in the foot.

[rushguy44]

Finally got to Harbor Freight and picked up a new winch, it's only 1200lbs capacity - is this going to be an issue? I don't have any idea what the old one was?


Got a new fuel line, waiting for amazon to deliver my new 3gallon gas tank as well. Can't wait to get it and some fresh gas and see how the motor runs.


Also, hit West Marine, they didn't have 4200, so I got the 5200, which I know is a lot stronger, but if this bow eye rips out again, I'm going to scuttle the boat anyway. With the heavy duty, very thick, large stainless steel plate I'm using as a backing plate, I imagine that this part of the boat will outlast the rest of the boat, and will be the strongest part of the boat.

Please provide input: I'm planning on squirting some 5200 in the holes from the outside, and on the bow eye backing plate that goes on the outside of the hull as I put it back in, then from the inside, applying 5200 liberally to the heavy duty interior backing plate that i fabricated. Then a washer and a locking nut. Sound right?

[rushguy44]

I didn't get any feedback, so moved ahead with my plan. The bow eye is going to be the sturdiest part of my Mac!

Not the prettiest job, but she'll hold.

[Jimmyt]

4200 is for parts you might need to take back off. 5200 is more difficult to get apart. 5200 is fine, given your parameter of abandoning the boat if the bow eye pulls out.

The forum members typically don't respond rapidly enough to consult while you work. You would need to post several days in advance for project advice. Just to help you manage expectations...

And, you did have some input: "Bow Eye: Don't know what flex glue is. I would use marine Tex or thickened epoxy to fill the holes and re-drill the correct size. Then, I would form the backing plate to match the inside curve of the hull. I would bed the plates and u-bolt with 3m 4200. Make the backing plate to cover as much area as you can. Lots of stress on it."

You elected to go with 5200 in lieu of fixing the holes in a more structural manner. 5200 will seal it just fine. As always, your boat, your choice.

The 1200 lb winch is probably fine. You need to get your trailer procedure down where you aren't needing an inordinate amount of force to get the boat on the trailer. If you are having trouble loading, stop and take a pic to post later so maybe you can get some advice. I bury my trailer so that only the v-bunk at the front is out of the water. My goal posts keep the boat lined up on the trailer. We guide the boat in using dock lines, then snap the winch hook in the bow eye and crank the last 2 or 3 feet. There is nowhere near 1200 lbs of tension required. Lots of ways to do it. That's just mine.

[WinSome]

1200# winch is perfect.
To load our 26c, we back down the ramp until rear wheels are near to the waterline. Boat should float onto trailer and need about 2-3’ of winching
Tip: use a bowline to tug boat into trailer. Works great and easy. I used to have crew use dock lines and pole to push boat out from dock, then Use dock lines to pull it forward. Always was a hassle.
Now: once I’ve backed in trailer, have someone toss me the bowline ( it’s an old halyard), and I go to the trailer with 3’ winch strap out. I ask dock line holders to push out with 10 # push (bag of potatoes). Then I can gently pull ‘Winsome’ onto the trailer. Comes right into place. Some winching and go. A bit of practice really helps speed it up.

[worldsailor62]

Hello:
Welcome to the forum, and thank you for your service. (You and your wife, spouses are often forgottten for their service.) I have been sailing since a child and have restored many boats. One of my main genetics is a love of wooden boats. I now have a Mac 25 and am teaching my son to sail. I have lived aboard for many years in the past. I am available to you with any questions you may have. My last live-aboard was on a 70' Hatteras across from the trade towers when they came down. I have had numerous sailboats and lived aboard a C&C 40 before buying the Hatteras. I am sure that you and your wife will enjoy your life aboard.

Fobert

[Justpics]

Welcome, I too am new to the forum, I picked up a Mac 25 1986, for $500 doing some renovations also, so will be following you closely. fortunately I am comfortable with woodworking and fiberglass so that helps, I'm 75 (in July) and also a vet. good luck with your project.

Garry
Salem, WV