Restore /refit of my 1988/89 26D

[kenfyoozed]

Work has been slowed since I am working out of town, but got the pva I sprayed on all the gelcoat washed off and another coat of the fairing compound on. Time to order more supplies.....

[OverEasy]

Great work!

[kenfyoozed]

I am so tired of blending in these sides. The compound curves are killing me. I would like the sides to be flat and I am almost there but the last 10% is driving me crazy. See pics below. The curves seems to uniform from the bow to the stern, and from top to bottom. So I think she is fair.... or darn close. I am going to apply a few coats of high build epoxy primer and then use a guide coat to help me see where my highs and lows are. Highs will get sanded and lows will get more fairing compound.

Any thought or suggestions?

[Wyb2]

My only suggestion: Be aware of the fact that, based on those pictures, you are well into ‘no one will ever be able to tell it’s not perfect except me’ territory. Even more so if you are going to paint some sort of accent stripe in that area.

Seriously, it looks really good, 99% of people going to think it came from the factory like that.

[OverEasy]

Ditto!
You’ve done a fantastic job!!!

[kenfyoozed]

My only suggestion: Be aware of the fact that, based on those pictures, you are well into ‘no one will ever be able to tell it’s not perfect except me’ territory. Even more so if you are going to paint some sort of accent stripe in that area.

Seriously, it looks really good, 99% of people going to think it came from the factory like that.

THIS!!!! This is the "territory" I hat being in, but I think you are correct. I ordered the high build epoxy primer and it should be here this week for the weekend.This will give me a better look of things. Thanks for the compliments from everyone.

[Jimmyt]

I'm going to throw in with the others. You are doing great work. At this point, you are fine tuning the icing on a beautiful cake. Well done!

[kenfyoozed]

Well its been to long! I'm back home now for good so work has resumed on my project. No new pics to speak of. I got more fairing compound on and sanded with a longboard to get it all fair. I need to do one more pass to clean up some low areas but I'm happy overall. Almost ready for the high build primer on the rails. Then on to all the other items....... but now I have a design issue. My rails are looking so good now that I don't want to cover them will a rub rail. I know the rails were bolted on, and this also was a mechanical fastening of the top and bottom hulls. Do I still need to bolt them? I thought of just using a decorative style bolt and space them apart. Leaving the bolt head exposed and easier to maintain. I just don't know if rubber rub rails are needed any longer.......

[Jimmyt]

If you use the boat, it's going to rub against all sorts of things. Some sort of sacrificial or resilient material is typically installed there for that very reason. A buddy of mine is building a boat currently and his rub rail is a wood strip with a semi-circular groove routed in it to accept a rope (which will be what does the rubbing).



So, you can make something that looks nice to put out there, but I'd encourage you to put something out there. You could adhere a rubber strip if you don't want to use fasteners. A teak strip with a stainless trim on it is another common treatment which can look really nice.

[OverEasy]

Ditto (on what he said)
Ya really need to consider some sort of resiliency to protect those flanges.
A hard localized strike could lead to a fracture…not something you’d want after all your great work!

MacGregors we’re designed with a finish that would be durable and low maintenance to increase the up time and fun time on the water.
The ‘as built’ rub rail sorta fit that philosophy but whatever your choice is your choice…. There are no absolutes, just choices.

Personally I’d most likely go with the new factory equivalent rubber rub rail.
The oiled teak and rope would look fantastic!
No doubt about that at all!
I just know that unless you like th grey progressively bleaching wood (needing to be sanded and refinished) aesthetic I’d suggest the careful consideration of the elastomeric alternative approach.

Best Regards
Over Easy

[kenfyoozed]

A little bit more fairing has been completed as well as removing all the hardware off the topside today. I am glad I have done all of this. There was basically no sealant for the windows. So between the windows and the unsealed hull joint this thing would have leaked like crazy in any waves. Work came to a stop over the summer. Between work and the heat, which for me was almost unbearable, nothing got done. We had a good few hours today to get all the hardware off. A lot more sanding to go but with the weather cooling off we should be able to accomplish more.

[kenfyoozed]

I found a "kayak style" drain plug being used for the breather hole on the water ballast. Not original but it should work I guess. I also found one in the storage area, rear bunk starboard side. So there are two large/long storage areas under the rear bunk. There is a divider between these two, and there is a drain plug on the starboard side of this divider? Any thoughts on what this would be? There is also some water staining in this same locker. I wonder if this could be where the water would drain after sailing since the rubrail and windows weren't sealed? I plan on filling the ballast tank with water and making sure there are no leaks before going further. I'll be doing this while its on the trailer....

[Stickinthemud57]

What you describe sounds different from my '94 26S, but that should not surprise me.

The water ballast itself is simple enough. A valve below the water line that can be opened and closed, and a vent hole to facilitate filling and emptying the ballast tank. If the vent hole is properly sealed, you should be dry inside. Maybe replacing the kayak plug would not be a bad idea?

In my boat water from rain still manages to find its way in. It ultimately collects in the lazarette and has to be sponged out on occasion. There are drain lines through this area that run from the cockpit and engine to a drain at the aft. Water not properly diverted would likely end up here.

Other than the vent hole in the ballast, I have no openings into the cabin that are not sealed, so I am a little clueless here. Pictures might help.

[Be Free]

I've never even seen a "D" in person so I'm going out on a limb here. Is the vent hole on this boat different than an "X"?

This is what I use on my vent.



This is a slightly less convenient version but it will fit a wider range of holes.



Either should be under $10 anywhere boat supplies are sold.

[kenfyoozed]

I was able to fill the ballast tank with the water hose. I found a leak inside the dagger board well. See the picture. It’s going to be a pain to repair. It’s about 6” above the bottom on the leading edge. Also there is on picture of the drain in the back of the rear bunk compartment. I’m pretty sure this was to drain the bilge if needed.