KingRichard wrote: ↑Sat Jun 03, 2023 6:45 am
Thanks for the advice. You confirmed my fear with the screws, I think there's ply wood directly under it and I've been on a 25 that was soft from what seemed to be moisture getting the core.
Question though, why use tie downs? I had always imagined bolting through the grommets, seems like the panel would be ok.
You could probably just bolt through the grommets. There are a bunch of small reasons that make me want to go a different way, but it would probably work fine.
The biggest is bedding. The panel is plastic, so might not play nice with polyurethane (4200) or polysulfide (life caulk). Silicone I think is safe for most plastics, but I really don’t like silicone on gelcoat. If you ever have to redo silicone, it leaves a residue that nothing will stick to (not even new silicone) and is impossible to clean off. You can sand it away, but if you are on textured non-skid, that’s pretty much impossible as well. The only silicone I see recommended for boats is architectural glazing (Dow 795) for setting glass or plastic windows into metal frames. It takes 7+ days to cure, but it has better adhesion and UV resistance than hardware store stuff for bathrooms. It may also leave less of that residue, but that’s less of an issue on non-porous metal and plastic anyway.
All that to say, I would use butyl tape, which is what I use for most things anyways. But butyl tape really likes to be compressed, it doesn’t glue things together the way curing sealants do. I’m not sure I would be comfortable using a bolt and fender washer and really tightening down on the panel grommet. Maybe it would be fine. Maybe use a nut or two and washers to create a kind of post that captures the grommet? So from top down: bolt head, fender washer, 1 or 2 stacked hex nuts inside panel grommet, washer, butyl tape, deck, washer, nut.
It’s possible I’m just over complicating it.