Fabricated rudder and castle

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Mike25
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Fabricated rudder and castle

Post by Mike25 »

Like the proud papa of an ugly baby I finally finished the rudder and castle fabrication. I started with a 6 foot 7 inch 2 by 12 and shaped the rudder. The extensive epoxy should add strength to avoid splitting, time will tell. The castle was too heavy and went to plywood probably just as heavy it took 3 layers of 1/2 inch to make the width the hardware required but it's strong. May paint it but my grandson pointed out the outboard will hide the ugly rough sand and the starboard has the nice grain view. That wheel barrow handle tiller has gotta go but for now I just need to get on the water.
Keel winch next
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Russ
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Re: Fabricated rudder and castle

Post by Russ »

Good work.

You must be anxious to get it floated and see how it performs.
--Russ
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topcat0399
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Location: Western Wisconsin, USA

Re: Fabricated rudder and castle

Post by topcat0399 »

That rudder should be fine so long as you can keep water out of it.
If water finds its way into plywood you're done.
Keep it off hard stuff if possible.

The original wooden rudder is teak I think and didn't really have a "shape"
per se, It is just a solid plank with eased edges.

If that were mine I would just paint it white with some tractor paint
from Tractor Supply and touch it up as needed.

To me it looks like you have 2 through bolts all the way though
the tiller handle and the rudder head both. I could be wrong.
How do you swing your tiller up
when its in the way or you stand up to sail?

Keep at 'er, my old wreck turns 50 this year.....
-Lake Petenwell, WI
-1973 Macgregor Venture V224 (iron keel - Yea!)
-1978 Evinrude 15 Long Shaft Electric Start
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Mike25
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Re: Fabricated rudder and castle

Post by Mike25 »

Thanks for the reply!

I may take some closeup pics.
There is an inordinate amount of epoxy on both. It was a labor to get all surfaces covered the way that stuff flows, even with colloidal silica which did help greatly. I keep finding little cracks and pin holes, persistence will prevail.

The tiller has 2 through bolts in the handle and 1 in the castle top so it will pivot. Great observation. There was some extensive rot due to poor wood quality that I cut off the end about 3 inches. Then there was a 1/2 inch by 5 by handle height section that got cut out and replaced with plywood and epoxied in. It was conveniently located at the forward most bolt hole added strength just where it needed
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topcat0399
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Re: Fabricated rudder and castle

Post by topcat0399 »

Are you saying that your plywood rudder is only covered by thickened resin?
Well that may be ok for a while but I would expect it to be getting heavier and heavier
over time as water finds its way in and soaks it. Resin alone is brittle, tho the silica may help.
Hard knocks can easily crack it. Covering it in a few layers of glass would help but plywood
is not the ideal material for a rudder. The edges are very vulnerable for an object
that often takes much abuse.

If you are having trouble shaping fiberglass quickly, use an angle grinder with a flap wheel.
Its known as the boat eater.
On something such as a rudder, a belt sander comes in very handy.

A better choice for a rudder is a solid wood such as a slab of teak, or a slab of white oak,
or some such other wood that does not rot easily.

Sail this season with what you have to just get out but sadly I would not rely on a plywood rudder.
-Lake Petenwell, WI
-1973 Macgregor Venture V224 (iron keel - Yea!)
-1978 Evinrude 15 Long Shaft Electric Start
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Mike25
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Re: Fabricated rudder and castle

Post by Mike25 »

I was not exact in my description. The castle is plywood but the rudder is solid pine. That thick layer of hardened epoxy will be brittle and subject to chipping like my outter layer of denial. incidentally it didn't get any silica which will probably make it more brittle. Not the best scenario and each bump is risky. Just see it as temporary now that I'm done. I think the plywood castle will last and will use what I have till it fails. I plan a wimpy return home using the outboard as the steering in worst case. Most of my sailing is in fresh water lakes where shoals and shallows are avoidable. I had thoughts of shaping a piece of HDPE but I don't know if it would break under stress. Its not cheap either. No wonder Ida's cost so much. I have a great source for white oak that may not be feasible but what a story. This came down last fall. Its still trying to grow.
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Mike25
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Re: Fabricated rudder and castle

Post by Mike25 »

Tested the boat and repairs yesterday. Rudder and castle work but was surprised that 25 lb rudder floats. Ok have to use the forward lanyard and cleat to force it down. See full story on "Keel position cable view obscured" thread
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