Anchoring

[NiceAft]

Maybe I am missing this topic in the thread: how can I install a loop to secure the top end of the rode in my 26M?
I don't see a suitable place to install a u-bolt in the anchor locker.

Pjack

I don’t believe I have ever seen a post on that subject.

I have always used bow cleats to secure the rode. Since I have thirty feet (9m) of chain and 200 feet (61m) of rode on each anchor, I have only once needed to tie off the bitter end.

Because of a shock factor, if you do decide to instal a u-bolt in the anchor locker, be sure to have a really wide back plate. It will be needed if when dropping the anchor, you miss calculate, and the sea bed is farther away than your chain and rode length.

[March]

I use the front cleats for securing the anchor rodes at the proper length, but ALWAYS tie the other end to the pulpit. we have two anchors : a danforth and a bullwagga. The bullwagga is the better (and heavier) one by far: it always grabs, regardless of the bottom. At some point we even had to work for 20 minutes to dislodge it (rocks and crannies at the Apostle Islands)

Last year, my mate didn't secure properly the bullwagga to the pulpit. We were blithely motoring around when I noticed the anchor was missing: damnation! I was so pi$$--they don't make the bullwagga anymore. Luckily, the rode was still attached to the pulpit and the anchor serenely trailed behind.

The depth was over 200 feet--this was Lake Superior.

Never underestimate the power of dumb luck--unless, of course, you count on it

[NiceAft]

March said:

At some point we even had to work for 20 minutes to dislodge it

See below

Choosing the anchor and how to set is one thing; retrieval is another. Sometimes it’s difficult to get an anchor to let go of the bottom. I use one of these whenever I drop the hook as a just in case the problem arises. The metal ring is no longer a circle, it’s now elliptical

[Be Free]

Obviously, none of us intend to deploy the anchor without having the rode attached to the boat. I've not lost an anchor (yet) but I've come
close in the past. Consequently, I keep the bitter end of the anchor rode attached to base of the starboard pulpit stanchion with a seaman-like bowline.

[OverEasy]

Hi All!

Don’t know if this helps …..
On our Mac26X it appears that it came with an anchor line tie off loop on the top deck just aft of the anchor line locker.

It works reasonably well for our usage.
Our anchor locker lid has a cut out on the starboard side lip edge (opposite the hinges) to allow the anchor line to feed out and allows the lid to lie flat. Given that our tie off is in the top deck and appears to have been factory installed we feel reasonably confident in utilizing it.

Personally I’d be REALLY hesitant about using an eye or U bolt within the anchor locker unless there was a substantial reinforce plate on the back side surface to distribute any loads (as the side walls are rather thin). To gain access for such a reinforcement would require making some sort of access portal. That’s a bit of work to accomplish …..

Best Regards
Over Easy

[Be Free]

That eye-strap is for the mast raising system.

[Pjack]

Maybe I am missing this topic in the thread: how can I install a loop to secure the top end of the rode in my 26M?
I don't see a suitable place to install a u-bolt in the anchor locker.

Pjack

Do you mean "the bitter end" of your anchor rode?

Mine is not secured to anything. I did attach a small float so if I ever get to that point where I need to toss it (that's another story), I can find my anchor rode.

I respect your confidence Russ. For myself, I'm way too inclined to "oops!"

[Jimmyt]

The bitter end of my anchor rode is always secured to a bow cleat. If one of my inexperienced crew heaves the anchor overboard (on my instruction or otherwise), I feel better knowing that I won’t have to smile and say “that’s ok, I never really used that old thing anyway”.

[Jimmyt]

Pjack,

And…. I see these are your fist posts. Welcome to the forum! Thanks for participating, and bringing up a different point of view. The thread topics tend to wander a bit around the initial idea. As long as you stay within a stone’s throw of the original idea, it’s cool.

Glad to have you in the mix.

And, we’re going to want boat work and trip pics. So, if you need help adding pictures to your posts, just ask.

[Pjack]

Obviously, none of us intend to deploy the anchor without having the rode attached to the boat. I've not lost an anchor (yet) but I've come
close in the past. Consequently, I keep the bitter end of the anchor rode attached to base of the starboard pulpit stanchion with a seaman-like bowline.

I've done that as a temporary fix . . . I think I'll make it permanent. Thanks!

[Pjack]

Hi All!

Don’t know if this helps …..
On our Mac26X it appears that it came with an anchor line tie off loop on the top deck just aft of the anchor line locker.

It works reasonably well for our usage.
Our anchor locker lid has a cut out on the starboard side lip edge (opposite the hinges) to allow the anchor line to feed out and allows the lid to lie flat. Given that our tie off is in the top deck and appears to have been factory installed we feel reasonably confident in utilizing it.

Personally I’d be REALLY hesitant about using an eye or U bolt within the anchor locker unless there was a substantial reinforce plate on the back side surface to distribute any loads (as the side walls are rather thin). To gain access for such a reinforcement would require making some sort of access portal. That’s a bit of work to accomplish …..

Best Regards
Over Easy

This is the structure detail that I was wondering about. Thanks!
I will trust that the factory-installed cleat on the deck can handle the weight of a plummeting anchor.

[Be Free]

Jimmy,

I've never checked, but I assume that the notch on starboard side of the anchor locker cover is standard. That notch is near where I tie the bitter end to the pulpit stanchion so I have a very short line running out of the anchor locker to the stanchion. I lead the active part anchor rode forward to the starboard cleat while anchoring and then close the locker cover with the two lengths of rode coming out through the notch.

With the bitter end attached to the forward cleat I would have two lengths of rode running the length of the anchor locker. I admit that the second line would not present much more of a tripping hazard than the first but except when I have all of my rode out (something I don't think I've ever done) I also don't see any significant advantage either. Am I missing something?

I may be an exception but my anchor locker is always closed unless I'm actively accessing it. I spend most of my time single handing and I try to be very conscious of potential tripping hazards. I don't want to climb out onto the bow in the dark and step into a locker that I thought was closed or stumble over the open lid.

On a related subject, I only use the starboard cleat for anchoring. I've never found an advantage to anchoring using the port side cleat; it just seems to complicate matters. Has anyone found a compelling reason to attach the bow anchor on the port side?

[Jimmyt]

Bill,

I’m not the brightest bulb in the box, so not sure I grasped the finer points you were making.

My anchor locker is always closed, except when I’ve just been out and washed the boat down, and have the lid propped up to let everything dry in my garage.

In an effort to speed my rigging process, my dock lines are always in place on all four corner cleats, Velcro’d to the stanchions. I’m pretty sure two strands of anchor line will come out with my lid closed. If the starboard cleat is too jammed up, I’ll just take a wrap around it and tie off to the port side to keep on the roller. Don’t see any advantage to one cleat over the other as long as you get the alignment you’re after.

I don’t have to go forward for anything but docking and anchoring. Haven’t noticed that the extra line was a significant tripping hazard. But, I haven’t tried it in the dark.

If I totally missed your point, I’ll blame it on the cancer med’s which “may have cognitive side effects”. More likely, it’s due to my not being the sharpest knife in the drawer.

Jim

[Mike25]

May be stating the obvious but much is lost or gained with rode. The recommended is 7 times your depth, meaning in 20' of water should have 140' of rode. That can be difficult or impractical if swing with changing wind puts you on the rocks unless you use the "Bahamian Moor" with 2 anchors fore and aft.

I pitched a method useful for inland lakes where we would camp days on end. Set the anchor as a mooring with a fender as a float then attach a block ( I have multiple rock climbing pulleys that survive the elements) between the moor and bow cleat. With this setup you can come into shore unload supplies and people then set boat into deep water from shore all while staying. This works great where the only surf is power boat wakes. Making the most of a swing keel. Looking for diagram now.

[Be Free]

Hi All!

Don’t know if this helps …..
On our Mac26X it appears that it came with an anchor line tie off loop on the top deck just aft of the anchor line locker.

It works reasonably well for our usage.
Our anchor locker lid has a cut out on the starboard side lip edge (opposite the hinges) to allow the anchor line to feed out and allows the lid to lie flat. Given that our tie off is in the top deck and appears to have been factory installed we feel reasonably confident in utilizing it.

Personally I’d be REALLY hesitant about using an eye or U bolt within the anchor locker unless there was a substantial reinforce plate on the back side surface to distribute any loads (as the side walls are rather thin). To gain access for such a reinforcement would require making some sort of access portal. That’s a bit of work to accomplish …..

Best Regards
Over Easy

This is the structure detail that I was wondering about. Thanks!
I will trust that the factory-installed cleat on the deck can handle the weight of a plummeting anchor.

I can't say for sure on an M but that eye strap is where the mast raising system attaches to the deck on an X.