New Macgregor owners wake up on their new project boat

[tuxonpup]

Hello, new members here from Tucson and new to Macgregor ownership as of this week. As we're from the land locked Sonoran desert, we flew to Salt Lake City last Saturday for a whirlwind boat buying, towing, sailing and stowing trip. Woke up on Tuesday after our first night aboard on Lake Powell and recorded ourselves recounting what had just transpired. Have lots of work to do converting this trawler back to a sailor and figured this would be the quickest way to bring folks up to speed on where the boat and our understanding of it is at;



Was surprised to find the ballast tank filled with the gate on the stern closed, should've checked the ballast vent more closely before putting her in. There is a ton of water draining from the ballast tank inset on the hull bottom at the end of the video, does that indicate it's just not sealed? Or possibly the seal is dried out and not functioning?

[Herschel]

Enjoyed your video. Welcome aboard the community. I have a '98 26X which I keep in a marina near my home in Orlando, FL. Sounds like you have a plan. I have sailed on Lake Powell near where you launched in my inflatable dinghy with a sail kit. That was back in 2011, though. We have stayed at the RV campground near there twice, 2011 and 2021. BWY is a great team for support. I did have to replace my ballast tank valve about 10 years ago. Thankfully, they are just RV holding tank valves. Nothing special. My Admiral and I have not found the aft berth very functional as a berth. It has turned into our storage area. We lower the table, top it with an air mattress for the Admiral, and I take the V berth. Not quite so claustrophobic and easier to get to the head during the "midwatch." We have a cockpit flip up table for eating. Many of us have invested in full cockpit enclosures to add to the interior space for over night camping. Just a thought. Best of luck.

[tuxonpup]

Thanks! Looks like the hybrid motor/sailor attracts a type! We bought the Sailboatstogo kit for our Sea Eagle 465ft in March of this year, and things quickly escalated;

[Russ]

Welcome!

Nice video. It explains much more than words in a post.

You sure have some work ahead, but it seems you have a good plan.
The boat looks great. The problem seems to be time and the sun have taken a toll on canvas.

Assuming the boat has been sitting for a while (sails rotted), I would assume it's time to do preventative maintenance on most things, specifically the motor. The nice thing about these boats is we can do most of the work ourselves.
I would replace:
Water pump impeller
Engine oil
lower gear oil
spark plugs
grease fittings

Battery status? How old are they?

Never buy ethanol gas. It will attract water and your boat is floating in water. I believe most marinas sell pure gas, but if you are at a land based station, look for e-free gas.

Ballast:
It's just an RV waste gate valve. I had the same thing happen to me this year. I launched and kept it closed (vent was closed too) and when I came back the next time the ballast was full. It must have leaked in.

This site has plenty of information. The Main Site Resources page has manuals, brochures, and other references.

The search function on the top will provide a plethora of 20 years of history on these boats. Or just ask and someone will probably have had the same issue.

Headsail sock:
I have one someplace. I absolutely hated it. It's difficult to install. I had to raise it with a halyard while zipping it. It's really a 2 person job. Heavy winds would catch it and shake violently like a flag.

The Sunbrella black stripe on my genoa has worked great for UV protection. We are at 5,000 feet and the UV is brutal here. Here, the sun will damage almost anything left out, yet that Sunbrella has held up for 16 years. My dodger looks as good as new with a few wear spots from physical chaffing, not from the UV of the sun.

I had Sunbrella sun cover added to my original jib so I could ditch the sock. It's nice to just furl up the headsail and be done. Again, I hated the hassle of hauling the jib sock up before leaving the boat.

[Be Free]

Congratulations and welcome! It looks like you have a real jewel there.

Don't worry about the ballast filling. It could be a bad seal on the valve (easy, inexpensive fix), or it is possible that you just did not have it closed all the way. The vent in the v-berth did not cause the problem. If you need to replace the the vent plug it is just a standard expanding transom plug that you can get anywhere boat accessories are sold.

You are 100% correct on the 5-year replacement cycle on sails. That's a racing thing and you (we) dont have a racing boat. New sails are nice and they do make a (small) difference.

Spending a lot of money to try to make a Mac (particularly a motorsailer) sail faster reminds me of a friend who raced motorcycles. I was in his shop one day and he was showing me the new alloy wheels he had just purchased for an unconscionable price in order to shave 10 pounds or so off the weight of the bike. My (unspoken) opinion was that 10 pounds was not going to make much of a difference as long as he was not willing to shave the 40+ pounds he was carrying around his waist. He had a fundamental (no pun intended) problem that fancy wheels were not going to fix.

There are a lot of 20+ year Macs still on the original sails and the rest are probably still on the first replacement set. If they are worn out, replace them but otherwise just get out there and have fun.

I agree 100% with Russ on the maintenance items he mentioned. Since you don't have working sails you need to be sure that your engine is not going to let you down. I'll add:

Engine and Fuel
Replace the fuel filter in the engine (if it has one)

Make sure that the fuel line and the priming bulb are in good condition. The fuel line should not feel soft or mushy. The priming bulb should not feel stiff or hard.

It's not common but there may be a fuel filter between the tank and the engine. Replace it if you find one.

Check the connectors on the fuel line. Some have O-rings that may dry out. If that happens you may get a leak or you may pull air into the line. Neither is desirable.

While the gas tank is empty clean out any debris.

Steering
I'm sure when he says "grease fittings" he means "use the grease fittings to fill the steering and tilt mechanism with grease". Pump in grease until you see clean grease coming out of the part that is being lubricated.

If the steering or shifting is stiff consider replacing the steering and/or shift cables.

Battery
There should be a date code or sticker on your battery. A well-maintained starter or hybrid battery should last 3-5 years minimum. Carrying some type of jump starting battery pack is recommended if the battery is in any way suspect. It's actually not a bad idea in any case.

Standing Rigging
Check all of the standing rigging (wire rope). Wrap your hand (protected by a cloth) around the wire rope and slide it down the entire length. The cloth will catch on any broken strands while protecting your hand from punctures. If there is even one broken strand it needs to be replaced. If there is any rust it needs to be replaced. All of the standing rigging is usually replaced at the same time. If one piece is bad then the rest is usually not far behind.

Check all of the fittings. Anything that is bent, cracked, or corroded should be replaced. Light corrosion can be cleaned up but if you can't adjust a turnbuckle or move a nut it needs to be replaced.

Check both ends of all of the standing rigging connections. Look at the swages and the nuts and bolts. Check the condition of the spreader tips.

Running Rigging
While the mast is down inspect the running rigging (the ropes). Replace any that are frayed or damaged. Make sure that all of the sheaves (pulleys) turn freely and that they are not chipped. Make sure that the rope diameter is appropriate for the sheave.

Mast
Inspect the mast and boom track. Small deformities can usually be bent back into place. Post any that you are not sure of.

On a 20 year-old boat it is likely that there will be fittings and such on the mast and boom that are no longer in use. If you can't tell what something is meant to do just ask. Someone here has likely seen or used it.

Check the mast step and mast base for damage. Pictures on BWY are a good reference for an undamaged part.

Look for damage to the gooseneck. Ditto on BWY.

Anchor
I know you've already anchored out so the anchor worked at least once. Check the condition and length of the anchor rode (rope and or chain). A good rule of thumb is a minimum of 3x the depth you expect to anchor in and a maximum 7-10x the depth.

Verify that any rope rode is not frayed or damaged and that it has sufficient chain (if any) for the bottom conditions you expect to see. Check the shackle (and/or splice) where the anchor connects to the rode. That is a common failure point. The mix of rope and/or chain is dictated by local bottom conditions.

Compare the anchor style to others you see in your local marina. That is a clue as to the type of anchor that has been found to work locally. There is no perfect anchor for all conditions. Whatever the locals are actually using is a good starting point.

Consider one or more additional anchors.

Safety
Check your local regulations but these are required in all 50 states AFAIK. Fines for missing equipment can be high. When checking local regulations be aware that you are under 26'. A 26X is 25' 10".

You should have (in good condition):
Appropriately sized life jackets for all passengers. Some styles must be worn to be "legal". All must be worn to be effective.

A throw-able flotation device (usually a boat cushion with straps).

A fire extinguisher (in-date and proper type). New regulations require replacing at a certain age.

A signalling device (day and night). This is often flares. Flares have expiration dates. Make sure yours are in-date if that is what you are using.

A sound making device (usually a horn).

Optionally (but highly recommended) at least one marine band radio.

Also optional (but highly recommended) one or more boater education courses from your local coast guard auxiliary chapter.

[tuxonpup]

Welcome!

Nice video. It explains much more than words in a post.

You sure have some work ahead, but it seems you have a good plan.
The boat looks great. The problem seems to be time and the sun have taken a toll on canvas.

Assuming the boat has been sitting for a while (sails rotted), I would assume it's time to do preventative maintenance on most things, specifically the motor. The nice thing about these boats is we can do most of the work ourselves.
I would replace:
Water pump impeller
Engine oil
lower gear oil
spark plugs
grease fittings

Battery status? How old are they?

Thanks! The good news is the previous owner had just bought it a year ago with the intent of using it exclusively for motoring, and had just invested in a new battery, new electric wires, new plugs, new oil and filter, and new steering cables.
The downside is he obviously had no interest in the mast rigging, sails, rudder linkage, and tossed both old batteries, so the house battery side of things isn't connected. We used a rechargeable LED for our anchor light the first night aboard.
I'm going to order a replacement impeller regardless.

Never buy ethanol gas. It will attract water and your boat is floating in water. I believe most marinas sell pure gas, but if you are at a land based station, look for e-free gas.

Ballast:
It's just an RV waste gate valve. I had the same thing happen to me this year. I launched and kept it closed (vent was closed too) and when I came back the next time the ballast was full. It must have leaked in.

This site has plenty of information. The Main Site Resources page has manuals, brochures, and other references.

The search function on the top will provide a plethora of 20 years of history on these boats. Or just ask and someone will probably have had the same issue.

Headsail sock:
I have one someplace. I absolutely hated it. It's difficult to install. I had to raise it with a halyard while zipping it. It's really a 2 person job. Heavy winds would catch it and shake violently like a flag.

The Sunbrella black stripe on my genoa has worked great for UV protection. We are at 5,000 feet and the UV is brutal here. Here, the sun will damage almost anything left out, yet that Sunbrella has held up for 16 years. My dodger looks as good as new with a few wear spots from physical chaffing, not from the UV of the sun.

I had Sunbrella sun cover added to my original jib so I could ditch the sock. It's nice to just furl up the headsail and be done. Again, I hated the hassle of hauling the jib sock up before leaving the boat.

Nice to hear the ballast filling issue is pretty common and easily resolved.
I was kinda going by BWY's recommendation on using a sail sock for protection from both UV and damage while trailering, but I looked at a boat with Sunbrella covering the final wrap on their furled jib and it certainly makes things simple.

[tuxonpup]

Congratulations and welcome! It looks like you have a real jewel there.

Don't worry about the ballast filling. It could be a bad seal on the valve (easy, inexpensive fix), or it is possible that you just did not have it closed all the way. The vent in the v-berth did not cause the problem. If you need to replace the the vent plug it is just a standard expanding transom plug that you can get anywhere boat accessories are sold.

You are 100% correct on the 5-year replacement cycle on sails. That's a racing thing and you (we) dont have a racing boat. New sails are nice and they do make a (small) difference.

Spending a lot of money to try to make a Mac (particularly a motorsailer) sail faster reminds me of a friend who raced motorcycles. I was in his shop one day and he was showing me the new alloy wheels he had just purchased for an unconscionable price in order to shave 10 pounds or so off the weight of the bike. My (unspoken) opinion was that 10 pounds was not going to make much of a difference as long as he was not willing to shave the 40+ pounds he was carrying around his waist. He had a fundamental (no pun intended) problem that fancy wheels were not going to fix.

There are a lot of 20+ year Macs still on the original sails and the rest are probably still on the first replacement set. If they are worn out, replace them but otherwise just get out there and have fun.

I agree 100% with Russ on the maintenance items he mentioned. Since you don't have working sails you need to be sure that your engine is not going to let you down. I'll add:

Engine and Fuel
Replace the fuel filter in the engine (if it has one)

Make sure that the fuel line and the priming bulb are in good condition. The fuel line should not feel soft or mushy. The priming bulb should not feel stiff or hard.

It's not common but there may be a fuel filter between the tank and the engine. Replace it if you find one.

Check the connectors on the fuel line. Some have O-rings that may dry out. If that happens you may get a leak or you may pull air into the line. Neither is desirable.

While the gas tank is empty clean out any debris.

Thanks again for the reassurance on the ballast filling, we'll just ensure it's completely filled if it's filling at all until I can sort it. The fuel line is solid, honestly it looks like the mechanic the owner hired replaced every electric, fuel and steering line running to the engine from the battery, console and fuel tank. The bulb was a little stiff though, we ran the tank to almost dry before pulling it out so we can check the tank condition before re-filling it again.

Steering
I'm sure when he says "grease fittings" he means "use the grease fittings to fill the steering and tilt mechanism with grease". Pump in grease until you see clean grease coming out of the part that is being lubricated.

If the steering or shifting is stiff consider replacing the steering and/or shift cables.

Battery
There should be a date code or sticker on your battery. A well-maintained starter or hybrid battery should last 3-5 years minimum. Carrying some type of jump starting battery pack is recommended if the battery is in any way suspect. It's actually not a bad idea in any case.

The steering and throttle were also just maintained by the mechanic who worked on the engine and electrical, both worked smoothly on our maiden voyage. I'm a lot more comfortable working on restoring the sailing rigging then I would be restoring the engine and steering connection.

Standing Rigging
Check all of the standing rigging (wire rope). Wrap your hand (protected by a cloth) around the wire rope and slide it down the entire length. The cloth will catch on any broken strands while protecting your hand from punctures. If there is even one broken strand it needs to be replaced. If there is any rust it needs to be replaced. All of the standing rigging is usually replaced at the same time. If one piece is bad then the rest is usually not far behind.

Check all of the fittings. Anything that is bent, cracked, or corroded should be replaced. Light corrosion can be cleaned up but if you can't adjust a turnbuckle or move a nut it needs to be replaced.

Check both ends of all of the standing rigging connections. Look at the swages and the nuts and bolts. Check the condition of the spreader tips.

Running Rigging
While the mast is down inspect the running rigging (the ropes). Replace any that are frayed or damaged. Make sure that all of the sheaves (pulleys) turn freely and that they are not chipped. Make sure that the rope diameter is appropriate for the sheave.

Mast
Inspect the mast and boom track. Small deformities can usually be bent back into place. Post any that you are not sure of.

On a 20 year-old boat it is likely that there will be fittings and such on the mast and boom that are no longer in use. If you can't tell what something is meant to do just ask. Someone here has likely seen or used it.

Check the mast step and mast base for damage. Pictures on BWY are a good reference for an undamaged part.

Look for damage to the gooseneck. Ditto on BWY.

Thanks for all this, as this is exactly what we'll be working on our next trip to the boat. Deciding how much we 're ordering for delivery before that trip is what I'm working on now. I'll add photos of the state of the sailing rigging to this post, it could certainly all be replaced!

Anchor
I know you've already anchored out so the anchor worked at least once. Check the condition and length of the anchor rode (rope and or chain). A good rule of thumb is a minimum of 3x the depth you expect to anchor in and a maximum 7-10x the depth.

Verify that any rope rode is not frayed or damaged and that it has sufficient chain (if any) for the bottom conditions you expect to see. Check the shackle (and/or splice) where the anchor connects to the rode. That is a common failure point. The mix of rope and/or chain is dictated by local bottom conditions.

Compare the anchor style to others you see in your local marina. That is a clue as to the type of anchor that has been found to work locally. There is no perfect anchor for all conditions. Whatever the locals are actually using is a good starting point.

Consider one or more additional anchors.

Safety
Check your local regulations but these are required in all 50 states AFAIK. Fines for missing equipment can be high. When checking local regulations be aware that you are under 26'. A 26X is 25' 10".

You should have (in good condition):
Appropriately sized life jackets for all passengers. Some styles must be worn to be "legal". All must be worn to be effective.

A throw-able flotation device (usually a boat cushion with straps).

A fire extinguisher (in-date and proper type). New regulations require replacing at a certain age.

A signalling device (day and night). This is often flares. Flares have expiration dates. Make sure yours are in-date if that is what you are using.

A sound making device (usually a horn).

Optionally (but highly recommended) at least one marine band radio.

Also optional (but highly recommended) one or more boater education courses from your local coast guard auxiliary chapter.

The nylon anchor line is new, but I'm ordering a new shackle as there wasn't one on it, I tied it off for our first anchor. It would've most likely been easier setting anchor if I had a length of chain rode on the end, as it was I had to drag the anchor in reverse with the extra line in hand to feel it set.

It came with some baseline equipment, 4 adult & 2 children's life jackets, new fire extinguisher, an air horn, and a VHF radio that appeared to be on the disconnected house battery. So I'll need to check that when wiring in a LifePO4 house battery next trip so we'll have a back-up battery source as well. I've seen a Lifesling on the rail most commonly for throwable flotation, and will add a flare kit to the mix.
We took the house boating weekend long course on Lake Powell, but are planning on a keel boat captaincy course through the University of San Diego they run on Mission Bay.

[Herschel]

tuxonpup remarked:
"I was kinda going by BWY's recommendation on using a sail sock for protection from both UV and damage while trailering, but I looked at a boat with Sunbrella covering the final wrap on their furled jib and it certainly makes things simple."
I would think that the decision about protecting the sails (and the jib in particular) would depend on whether you store the boat with the mast raised or in the travel position. And if you plan to use a roller furler. If storing with the mast raised and the jib on a roller furler, then the Sunbrella strip on the leech and foot of the sail would be a great way to go. That is my preferred rig. Although, I prefer the working jib to the Genoa. If storing the lot below with the mast unstepped, then it doesn't much matter about the Sunbrella strip nor the sock. If you go with the roller furled jib/Genoa and storing with the mast stepped, I highly recommend a little added insurance against high winds with the use of my "signature" heavy duty twist ties. They saved my jib during Hurricane Milton a few weeks ago.

[Russ]

Wow, it sounds like you lucked out with the motor being kept maintained.

That headsail looks kaput. It looks like there was no sun protection. It would be fun to unfurl it and see what the rest looks like. You'll have to do that to change it anyway.
I bought my boat and headsail from BWY and it came with a sock. Must be a Todd thing. I hated the sock for reasons mentioned. My current headsail is a 150 genny and I've left it on for 10 years now all year. I do cover the boat in winter, but our summer UV will destroy most things. That Sunbrella has held up nicely.

No anchor chain????? That's not good. You need some chain.

I'm not familiar with anchoring in your area, some local knowledge might be useful to learn best type of anchor and how much line.

Good for you getting boating ed. I was going to suggest when I saw your post.

[tuxonpup]

Wow, it sounds like you lucked out with the motor being kept maintained.

That headsail looks kaput. It looks like there was no sun protection. It would be fun to unfurl it and see what the rest looks like. You'll have to do that to change it anyway.
I bought my boat and headsail from BWY and it came with a sock. Must be a Todd thing. I hated the sock for reasons mentioned. My current headsail is a 150 genny and I've left it on for 10 years now all year. I do cover the boat in winter, but our summer UV will destroy most things. That Sunbrella has held up nicely.

No anchor chain????? That's not good. You need some chain.

I'm not familiar with anchoring in your area, some local knowledge might be useful to learn best type of anchor and how much line.

Good for you getting boating ed. I was going to suggest when I saw your post.

Yes, we're newbs when it comes to yachting. Grew up at kayaking classes my dad taught every winter and making river runs every spring with that year's graduates, but we've gravitated to sea kayaking later in life. Been using that inflatable 15 footer a lot this year as a checked bag, this summer it flew to England, France and Spain with us, and we've taken two road trips so far this fall to sail it on Mission Bay and in La Jolla.
Thanks for the input on the head sail, seems like the furling UV layer is sufficient, I was tentative considering the state the jib was in on this boat. How do you like the genoa over jib? The guy that showed me his Sunbrella protected jib said he regretted not getting a 150 genoa instead and just using it partially furled as a standard jib when in heavier winds, which swayed me in going that direction.

[Be Free]

It sounds like the engine and steering are all in great shape.

A new primer bulb will be stiff but it's a "good" stiff, not old, cracked, and dried out stiff.

Adding a short length (6' or so) of chain will make setting the anchor easier. The shaft of the anchor needs to be more horizontal than vertical when setting. More chain may be called for if the bottom conditions would be rough on a rope rode.

I prefer to use a thimble and a splice rather than a knot. It is much stronger that way. A knot in a nylon rope reduces the strength by approximately 50%. A properly spliced nylon rope will retain closer to 90% of the original strength.

Nylon rope terminated with a thimble and a splice can be attached to a shackle or it can be attached directly to the chain if you are doing the splice yourself.

The chain will be attached to the anchor with another shackle (some like to use a swivel here).

Don't forget to attach the bitter end of the rode to the boat. It is unbelievably frustrating to watch it go sliding over the side.

A Lifesling is an excellent choice for a throwable device and I would certainly not remove one if my boat came with it. They do cost significantly more than a boat cushion but they also have some additional features.

If you go the Lifesling route (or already have one) make sure that all on the boat know how to use it. You may be the one that who needs to be brought back aboard. Plan how you will bring an injured or unconscious person aboard and then practice it. It will be challenging under the best of conditions (where going overboard is unlikely) and potentially very difficult under bad conditions (where going overboard is much more likely).

The pictures of the running rigging don't look bad. The halyards are dirty but I don't see any damage. You can clean them with with a mild detergent. Do not use anything with chlorine bleach. I like to soak mine in a bucket of warm, soapy water at least once a season.

At this rate you'll be sailing in no time!

[Russ]

How do you like the genoa over jib? The guy that showed me his Sunbrella protected jib said he regretted not getting a 150 genoa instead and just using it partially furled as a standard jib when in heavier winds, which swayed me in going that direction.

I ONLY use the 150 now. We do mountain lake sailing so winds are flaky. Either too little or too much and then constantly changing directions.

My genny has "reef points" or something like that, I forget what the actual term is, so I can "reef" the genny down to a postage stamp. These "ribs" in the genny are supposed to help keep the sail shape when "reefed".

Which is what I do ALL the time. I like the idea of easily changing the size of the head sail. It's not ideal for best sail shape, but our boats sail like slugs anyway, so performance isn't my concern. I'm in no hurry while sailing.

[JotaErre]

Enjoyed your video. Welcome aboard the community. I have a '98 26X which I keep in a marina near my home in Orlando, FL. Sounds like you have a plan. I have sailed on Lake Powell near where you launched in my inflatable dinghy with a sail kit. That was back in 2011, though. We have stayed at the RV campground near there twice, 2011 and 2021. BWY is a great team for support. I did have to replace my ballast tank valve about 10 years ago. Thankfully, they are just RV holding tank valves. Nothing special. My Admiral and I have not found the aft berth very functional as a berth. It has turned into our storage area. We lower the table, top it with an air mattress for the Admiral, and I take the V berth. Not quite so claustrophobic and easier to get to the head during the "midwatch." We have a cockpit flip up table for eating. Many of us have invested in full cockpit enclosures to add to the interior space for over night camping. Just a thought. Best of luck.

Apart from my , I have owned this one for 30 years...

[tuxonpup]

It sounds like the engine and steering are all in great shape.

A new primer bulb will be stiff but it's a "good" stiff, not old, cracked, and dried out stiff.

Adding a short length (6' or so) of chain will make setting the anchor easier. The shaft of the anchor needs to be more horizontal than vertical when setting. More chain may be called for if the bottom conditions would be rough on a rope rode.

I prefer to use a thimble and a splice rather than a knot. It is much stronger that way. A knot in a nylon rope reduces the strength by approximately 50%. A properly spliced nylon rope will retain closer to 90% of the original strength.

Nylon rope terminated with a thimble and a splice can be attached to a shackle or it can be attached directly to the chain if you are doing the splice yourself.

The chain will be attached to the anchor with another shackle (some like to use a swivel here).

Don't forget to attach the bitter end of the rode to the boat. It is unbelievably frustrating to watch it go sliding over the side.

A Lifesling is an excellent choice for a throwable device and I would certainly not remove one if my boat came with it. They do cost significantly more than a boat cushion but they also have some additional features.

If you go the Lifesling route (or already have one) make sure that all on the boat know how to use it. You may be the one that who needs to be brought back aboard. Plan how you will bring an injured or unconscious person aboard and then practice it. It will be challenging under the best of conditions (where going overboard is unlikely) and potentially very difficult under bad conditions (where going overboard is much more likely).

The pictures of the running rigging don't look bad. The halyards are dirty but I don't see any damage. You can clean them with with a mild detergent. Do not use anything with chlorine bleach. I like to soak mine in a bucket of warm, soapy water at least once a season.

At this rate you'll be sailing in no time!

The anchor line has a nice splice in it, just needed a shackle. Can you source appropriate chain to use as anchor rode from hardware/home improvement stores? I'd like to try the 6' suggestion with shackles on both ends so the anchor lays horizontal when setting it, could've probably set it right off the bow with less 'anchor bob' happening.
We're going to bring a bucket and some Dawn detergent to try soaking our lines before rigging the boat, thanks!

[tuxonpup]

How do you like the genoa over jib? The guy that showed me his Sunbrella protected jib said he regretted not getting a 150 genoa instead and just using it partially furled as a standard jib when in heavier winds, which swayed me in going that direction.

I ONLY use the 150 now. We do mountain lake sailing so winds are flaky. Either too little or too much and then constantly changing directions.

My genny has "reef points" or something like that, I forget what the actual term is, so I can "reef" the genny down to a postage stamp. These "ribs" in the genny are supposed to help keep the sail shape when "reefed".

Which is what I do ALL the time. I like the idea of easily changing the size of the head sail. It's not ideal for best sail shape, but our boats sail like slugs anyway, so performance isn't my concern. I'm in no hurry while sailing.

Yes, canyon sailing in Arizona can be 'interesting' as well, based on our experience with the little lateen kayak rig. I like the idea of being able to go from a 150 genoa down to a little storm sized jib just using the furler. I've also been swayed to go ahead and order the white Sunbrella cover version;
https://shop.bwyachts.com/product-p/7212-1v0.htm

The next weekend I have off is the one before Thanksgiving, hopefully that's enough lead time to get a genoa delivered so we can reload the furler on land the first day, then raise the mast with new 1/4" clevis pins. I think we'll follow your example and just order the headsail for now, as ours is so spectacularly shredded, then once we're up there we can unpack the main sail and see if it's worth a repair, or if it just needs immediate replacement.