I have a 2027 26M, the rudder bolt is not Stainless Steel, and I need to replace it.
Currently it is installed as follows:
1) There is a 3/8" bolt and nylock nut (?? 3 1/2" long?)
2) Between the rudder and the bracket there is a HUGE fender washer each side
3) There are 3 stacked fender washers on each OUT SIDE between bolt head/nut and bracket.
Is this the correct install (even though no 316 Stainless steel)
I want to replace all hardware with 316 ss possibly even install a tube spacer...
Looks like previous owner was trying to improve the strength of the rudder bracket by building it up with washers. The M rudders do have a tendency to bend under some conditions that they should really be able to deal with. I've had to straighten mine out on many occasions at the end of a season or when I pull the boat out of the water after a trip and am often surprised at how they wound up bent. Mild groundings, heavy weather, rudders not secured down tightly against the stops when underway are situations that can create bends in the rudder brackets. I've tried similar things to try to get rid of the play between the brackets and the rudders. None have really solved the problem. I believe either BWYachts or another vendor sells upgraded brackets. It's on the list of things I want but not high up on the list.
I'm not sure the physics of adding huge fender washers on the outside of the brackets will help much, but it probably won't hurt. As long as all the hardware is stainless and there isn't any friction between the fender washers and the bracket, it probably won't do any harm. But based on my experience with bendy brackets, the point of weakness will just be closer to the pintle.
I would add that under routine conditions and by better avoiding operator error with misusing rudders, or bad navigation, I've had a lot less bends in the rudder bracket the last few years.
Hi. I partially solved the rudder bracket issue and I bent mine right away. The rudder pivot bolt, first off, is much too small. 1/2" Thats what it needs. But it also ideally needs a 1/2 ID sleeve or bushing, set into the rudder blade where the pivot hole is. That sleeve is cut just a tiny bit proud of the rudder blade and should hand fit into the hole. I used bronze bushings on mine but stainless can work too. Now ship the rudder and insert the bolt through the bushing and tighten the bolt home. Don't forget the washers, and plastic shims to protect the rudder from wearing on the brackets. With the bolt tight, the rudder now pivots on the bushing. That allows the bolt to be good and tight while still permitting easy rudder raising. This system helps minimize the bending.
The bushing needs to be cut or filed to only 1/32" longer than the total rudder thickness plus whatever shims you use. I cut mine from plastic bucket lids, but someone on this site was selling them at one time, too. Nicer ones.
And NOPE.. the hardware was just Zinc Coated .. swapping to stainless. (I do fresh water. so 18-8 SS).
The bolts/washers are nasty, and left lots of rust everywhere..
I ordered some SS tubing so I can make the bushings.. do not think any were there.. did not see any bushings..
(or they are 100% rusted out.)
I heard some people use old CDs for spacers between the rudder, and the mount..(?) and cut them down to an approp. diameter.
As far as the washers, I think it may be due to a TOO LONG bolt?
Ixneigh wrote: ↑Sun Apr 12, 2026 8:43 pm
Hi. I partially solved the rudder bracket issue and I bent mine right away. The rudder pivot bolt, first off, is much too small. 1/2" Thats what it needs. But it also ideally needs a 1/2 ID sleeve or bushing, set into the rudder blade where the pivot hole is. That sleeve is cut just a tiny bit proud of the rudder blade and should hand fit into the hole. I used bronze bushings on mine but stainless can work too. Now ship the rudder and insert the bolt through the bushing and tighten the bolt home. Don't forget the washers, and plastic shims to protect the rudder from wearing on the brackets. With the bolt tight, the rudder now pivots on the bushing. That allows the bolt to be good and tight while still permitting easy rudder raising. This system helps minimize the bending.
The bushing needs to be cut or filed to only 1/32" longer than the total rudder thickness plus whatever shims you use. I cut mine from plastic bucket lids, but someone on this site was selling them at one time, too. Nicer ones.
Interesting. Did you have to drill out the diameter of the rudder hole to 1/2 inch? Mine and I think stock diameter is exactly .413 inches or 10.5mm. So not a big deal to drill it out to 1/2 inch, but was curious. I just measured the dimensions of the bracket and rudder and I think this piece of hardware is a perfect fit for the solution you described above. https://www.google.com/search?ibp=oshop ... cPegQIBRAR
Oh. I forgot to add my most common cause of bent rudder brackets as a warning to all new owners out there. Docking with the rudders up and bumping into pilings or other things. One should additionally ensure that dock lines are rigged to keep the lifted rudders well clear of bulkheads and other obstacles as the tide, wind, and currents change.
I drilled the rudders holes out I think 5/8th maybe. Or whatever OD the chunky bushings I bought had, so I could use 1/2 inch bolts. I bent the 3/8 bolts the boat came with, my first season of use. My use of the boat is extreme. So you may be able to use the one you sent me a link to, just fine and use 3/8 bolts. You can always go bigger, later.
Thanks for all the advice.
I have an assortment of bolts/washer/nylon fender washer.
Will go down today/tomorrow and "rebuild". Will post some before/after photos.
