Fuel line hose replacement
- craiglaforce
- Captain
- Posts: 831
- Joined: Fri Jan 02, 2004 8:30 am
- Sailboat: MacGregor 26X
- Location: Houston, Tx
Fuel line hose replacement
I am replaceing all my fuel lines and primer bulbs again. This time I bought regular fuel line hose from an auto parts store. I think the rubber might be a lot more durable and less brittle and leak prone.
The only question I have is if there are any compatability problems with 2 stroke oil/gas mixture service. ANy thoughts? I am also going to rig it a little differently so the primer bulb resides up under the storage bin a ways, to reduce UV damage. Can't even get 1 season out of the rubber bulbs in Oklahoma. Hopefully shading them more will extend their life to a couple yrs.
The only question I have is if there are any compatability problems with 2 stroke oil/gas mixture service. ANy thoughts? I am also going to rig it a little differently so the primer bulb resides up under the storage bin a ways, to reduce UV damage. Can't even get 1 season out of the rubber bulbs in Oklahoma. Hopefully shading them more will extend their life to a couple yrs.
UV protection for rubber
Check out this web page and search for more like it. I think UV damage on rubber is a big enough problem for a big enough number of people that there are products made to reduce the problem.
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http://www.303products.com/main.php?infopage=protectant
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http://www.303products.com/main.php?infopage=protectant
- Chip Hindes
- Admiral
- Posts: 2166
- Joined: Mon Jan 05, 2004 6:13 am
- Location: West Sand Lake, NY '01X, "Nextboat" 50HP Tohatsu
Automotive grade fuel hose ought to be rated for higher (underhood) temps, but is normally not at all subject to UV damage. I think you'd be better off sticking with something specifically designed for UV-resistance.
Anything designed for fuel ought to be OK for oil or an oil/fuel mixture as well.
UV damage is closely related to sun angles and time of exposeure, so the closer to the equator, the worse. It puzzles me why OK would be a worse location, UV-wise, than (say) Southern CA or FL. Is it possible you guys are getting fuel with a higher percentage of alcohol? As I recall my owners' manual specifically states high alcohol content (>10%?) will damage fuel system parts.
Anything designed for fuel ought to be OK for oil or an oil/fuel mixture as well.
UV damage is closely related to sun angles and time of exposeure, so the closer to the equator, the worse. It puzzles me why OK would be a worse location, UV-wise, than (say) Southern CA or FL. Is it possible you guys are getting fuel with a higher percentage of alcohol? As I recall my owners' manual specifically states high alcohol content (>10%?) will damage fuel system parts.
- craiglaforce
- Captain
- Posts: 831
- Joined: Fri Jan 02, 2004 8:30 am
- Sailboat: MacGregor 26X
- Location: Houston, Tx
The hose seems to be aging normally, although it is sucking air at one of the crimped connectors and is very stiff. The bulbs are aging faster for some reason. I think the fuel is normal, but who really knows.
The sun is very intense in Oklahoma. Probably a higher percentage of sunny days, combined with temps routinely over 100 deg F, makes the rubber age faster.
The guy at Boater's World says he takes his primer and hose home every time believe it or not.
Thanks for the opinion on oily gas service. I just didn't want to do something more stupid than normal, like put in a hose that melts or turns to goo.
The sun is very intense in Oklahoma. Probably a higher percentage of sunny days, combined with temps routinely over 100 deg F, makes the rubber age faster.
The guy at Boater's World says he takes his primer and hose home every time believe it or not.
Thanks for the opinion on oily gas service. I just didn't want to do something more stupid than normal, like put in a hose that melts or turns to goo.
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jim nolan
- Chief Steward
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- Location: sayre pa. 1999 26 X joey-boy
About things that melt. My hardware store had three 5 gallon plastic fuel cans. Red ones, 14.99 for gas, black 14.99 for oil, blue ones[ sale] 4.99 for kerosene. All the same shape, nice pouring system, beautiful. I bought the kerosene one, for gas. Anyone know if I will have problems with melting plastic in the can, that will go into my old, but great tohatsu?
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Frank C
My primer hose left me stalled and drifting toward a CG cutter ... LOL, the hose did it, not the Cap't!craiglaforce wrote:The guy at Boater's World says he takes his primer and hose home every time believe it or not.
I'm dubious that UV rays are the culprit since the pickup segment of the hose is usually under my helm seat (or well sheltered within the locker) and the primer bulb is shaded as well. Strangely, the motor end of the hose seems to have retained its sealing ability. These things might last only a couple of years, but I don't believe taking it home will help. At most, I'd coil it and stow in the fuel locker.
Mine too became very stiff and I thought it was sucking air at the clamp. Yet, cutting the hose shorter and reattaching the Quick-Couple fitting didn't solve the problem. In the end, I had to immerse the raw hose end into the gasoline to start the motor & get back to the ramp. Maybe those QCs have leaking o-rings inside ... quite a bummer at ~20 bucks each ... or something else was at fault. When I phoned Brown's Point (Suzuki dealer) he suggested that my DuraTank's internal pickup hose needed study! ...
good possibility, but I haven't gotten back to it yet.
- craiglaforce
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Bill at BOATS 4 SAIL
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- craiglaforce
- Captain
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- Catigale
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About things that melt. My hardware store had three 5 gallon plastic fuel cans. Red ones, 14.99 for gas, black 14.99 for oil, blue ones[ sale] 4.99 for kerosene. All the same shape, nice pouring system, beautiful. I bought the kerosene one, for gas. Anyone know if I will have problems with melting plastic in the can, that will go into my old, but great tohatsu?
Jim - Im 99% certain all these tanks are crosslinked polyethylene, with different colours mixed into the polymer melt, so I think you are ok.
Any polymer chemists here to confirm please??
On edit - maybe look at the bottom for the Recycle identifiier and see if they all have the arrows surrounding a number 2 ????
Last edited by Catigale on Tue Jan 03, 2006 4:49 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Bill at BOATS 4 SAIL
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- Catigale
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Jim - not at all dumb, I wondered about this same issue myself some time ago - just wanted to refresh my recollection before posting disinformation.
Other than avoiding politics and offensive material, this board is pretty open to anything on sailing anywhere....if its really off topic the worst that can happen is it gets bumped to another thread or Forum.
On edit: Left off a couple of other forbidden topics
Is the Mac capable of sailing to (insert destination here)
Whats better X or M or (insert model here)
Does insurance really cover holes in the hull made while cleaning your shotgun?
Other than avoiding politics and offensive material, this board is pretty open to anything on sailing anywhere....if its really off topic the worst that can happen is it gets bumped to another thread or Forum.
On edit: Left off a couple of other forbidden topics
Is the Mac capable of sailing to (insert destination here)
Whats better X or M or (insert model here)
Does insurance really cover holes in the hull made while cleaning your shotgun?
Last edited by Catigale on Wed Jan 04, 2006 3:40 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- craiglaforce
- Captain
- Posts: 831
- Joined: Fri Jan 02, 2004 8:30 am
- Sailboat: MacGregor 26X
- Location: Houston, Tx
Agree, I thought it was actually very much along the lines of the subject. materials compatibility with Fuel. Certainly no need to apologize. Actually I bought one of those blue kerosene tanks also. Looked like a better design than the gas can that was sitting next to it at the store. Just gotta remember whats in it or add a label tag of some sort.
