I finally got around to creating a wood galley table to replace the black fiberglass one. Wondering if their are any recommendations on varnishes. I want a glossy finish and don't want to sand between coats. Sounds like I might also want to delay applying it until the head and humidity pass? Currently high 90's and high humidity.
Any recommendations?
Varnish Recommendation
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ssichler
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http://www.epifanes.com/home.htm
Epifanes applied correctly will result in a beautiful finish. Just a light sand is needed between coats. I think you would be OK to varnish now as long as you keep out of the sun and let it dry longer between coats but directions should be available on the web site.
-Scott
Epifanes applied correctly will result in a beautiful finish. Just a light sand is needed between coats. I think you would be OK to varnish now as long as you keep out of the sun and let it dry longer between coats but directions should be available on the web site.
-Scott
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Night Sailor
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PU
Absolutely, positively the best and most durable high gloss finish you can get is a polyurethane. Brand really doesnt' matter. Shop Lowe's or Home Depot or any paint store. PU is the hardest, clearest, most tenacious finish for wood. Easy to put on in multiple thin coats. Ideal for floors or table tops.
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kmclemore
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OK, I'll chime in, but I'm not sure I'm the "expert"! (But thanks for the kudos, Stephen!)
Generally, I really try hard to avoid humid environments for any sort of coating - either paint or varnish. It tends to make the finish blush (gets a kind of 'fog' in the top of the finish) and if bad enough may actually trap moisture in the wood that prevents proper adhesion, and the finish may later lift in hot weather or when exposed to direct sunlight. I recommend you either find a controlled environment (air conditioned) or wait until later in the summer when the humidity drops... here in Phila that's usually late August, but YMMV.
Having said that, the recommendation of Epifanes is a good one - it's a very nice product and I've used it before. However, in the case of my own table I used a relatively inexpensive but good quality product - Minwax Helmsman Spar Urethane. I wanted a spar urethane for this job because it better copes with the temperature and humidity extremes found on a boat, as well as offering a tough and scuff resistant finish. Another good one is McCloskey Man O'War Spar Marine Varnish, though I think you'll find that brand takes quite a while longer than the Minwax to dry to a hard finish.
I also chose to use a semi-gloss finish on my table, since the very glossy look doesn't appeal to me as much as a nice soft glow does. However, if you plan to use this finish, you must never apply multiple coats of semi-gloss... you will end up with a dull and cloudy finish. Instead, apply all of your first coats using gloss varnish and save the last coat for your satin or semi-gloss vanish - you'll end up with a nice clear finish and the color of your wood will shine through. (Glossy varnishes don't have any of the 'dulling' elements like semi-gloss or satin finishes, so they go on clear, but multiple coats of semi-gloss or satin will end up applying multiple 'dull' layers and will therefore look cloudy and yellowed.)
As far as sanding between coats, I'm afraid if you want a quality job you're stuck with that one! However, there are a few things that can really minimize how much sanding you have to do...
First, sand the wood as smooth as you can prior to your first application - this will save oodles of work later in the process. Use a 150 or 180-grit paper for most woods. Don't be tempted to use anything higher or you'll clog the wood's pores and prevent good adhesion of the finish.
Second, right before you're ready to apply your first coat, vacuum the product thoroughly with a strong shop vac, using a clean brush attachment (wash it first if you have to - it might have dirt, grease or oils on it). Get all the dust out of the wood's pores, since your varnish-coated brush will just bring all that rubbish up out of those pores and onto the surface - and leave nasty bumps that you'll have to sand off later on!
Finally, just before you lay the brush to the wood, use atack-rag (aka tack-cloth), and wipe down every part of the product, paying particular attention to the corners and crevices. Fold and turn the cloth along the way to expose new, tacky surfaces as you go along. Lightly rub the surface but do not rub hard or the tacky stuff from the rag will end up on the surface and make your finish slower to dry. This tack-rag process will remove all the last little bits of rubbish, dust, lint and other stuff that will spoil your otherwise glass-smooth finish.
Apply your first coat, then after it's dry use a clog-resistant (aka "open coat") 320-grit sandpaper (the grey or white stuff) and use light pressure... remember, you're just trying to get off the high spots, not remove what you just laid down! Especially avoid sanding corners or edges, as the finish there is the thinnest and you'll expose raw wood very easily. Only sand the edges if they have visible roughness.
Once you've finished sanding, then get out that vacuum and tack-rag again and continue this process between each coat. When applying any finish, absolutely scrupulous cleanliness is truly the key!
When you are applying the varnish, try to avoid a lot of back-and-forth brushing... just brush in one direction, in line with the wood's grain where possible. Brush slowly and smoothly, almost like you're 'petting' the surface with the brush, and use long, flowing strokes. Also, try to brush back into your work - that is, brush back into where you've already varnished - this will help prevent 'pulls' in the finish.
Lastly, never, never, never apply any finish in direct sunlight - it will bubble for sure, particularly when dealing with wood. So try to do it in the shade, and under a cover (to prevent falling debris), and shoot for a ambient temperature between 70-78 degrees, if you can.
BTW, I use foam brushes to apply my finishes - I know purists will cringe, but they really are better than bristle brushes, and you're not tempted to re-use them and then impart previously-collected debris into your finish.
Generally, I really try hard to avoid humid environments for any sort of coating - either paint or varnish. It tends to make the finish blush (gets a kind of 'fog' in the top of the finish) and if bad enough may actually trap moisture in the wood that prevents proper adhesion, and the finish may later lift in hot weather or when exposed to direct sunlight. I recommend you either find a controlled environment (air conditioned) or wait until later in the summer when the humidity drops... here in Phila that's usually late August, but YMMV.
Having said that, the recommendation of Epifanes is a good one - it's a very nice product and I've used it before. However, in the case of my own table I used a relatively inexpensive but good quality product - Minwax Helmsman Spar Urethane. I wanted a spar urethane for this job because it better copes with the temperature and humidity extremes found on a boat, as well as offering a tough and scuff resistant finish. Another good one is McCloskey Man O'War Spar Marine Varnish, though I think you'll find that brand takes quite a while longer than the Minwax to dry to a hard finish.
I also chose to use a semi-gloss finish on my table, since the very glossy look doesn't appeal to me as much as a nice soft glow does. However, if you plan to use this finish, you must never apply multiple coats of semi-gloss... you will end up with a dull and cloudy finish. Instead, apply all of your first coats using gloss varnish and save the last coat for your satin or semi-gloss vanish - you'll end up with a nice clear finish and the color of your wood will shine through. (Glossy varnishes don't have any of the 'dulling' elements like semi-gloss or satin finishes, so they go on clear, but multiple coats of semi-gloss or satin will end up applying multiple 'dull' layers and will therefore look cloudy and yellowed.)
As far as sanding between coats, I'm afraid if you want a quality job you're stuck with that one! However, there are a few things that can really minimize how much sanding you have to do...
First, sand the wood as smooth as you can prior to your first application - this will save oodles of work later in the process. Use a 150 or 180-grit paper for most woods. Don't be tempted to use anything higher or you'll clog the wood's pores and prevent good adhesion of the finish.
Second, right before you're ready to apply your first coat, vacuum the product thoroughly with a strong shop vac, using a clean brush attachment (wash it first if you have to - it might have dirt, grease or oils on it). Get all the dust out of the wood's pores, since your varnish-coated brush will just bring all that rubbish up out of those pores and onto the surface - and leave nasty bumps that you'll have to sand off later on!
Finally, just before you lay the brush to the wood, use atack-rag (aka tack-cloth), and wipe down every part of the product, paying particular attention to the corners and crevices. Fold and turn the cloth along the way to expose new, tacky surfaces as you go along. Lightly rub the surface but do not rub hard or the tacky stuff from the rag will end up on the surface and make your finish slower to dry. This tack-rag process will remove all the last little bits of rubbish, dust, lint and other stuff that will spoil your otherwise glass-smooth finish.
Apply your first coat, then after it's dry use a clog-resistant (aka "open coat") 320-grit sandpaper (the grey or white stuff) and use light pressure... remember, you're just trying to get off the high spots, not remove what you just laid down! Especially avoid sanding corners or edges, as the finish there is the thinnest and you'll expose raw wood very easily. Only sand the edges if they have visible roughness.
Once you've finished sanding, then get out that vacuum and tack-rag again and continue this process between each coat. When applying any finish, absolutely scrupulous cleanliness is truly the key!
When you are applying the varnish, try to avoid a lot of back-and-forth brushing... just brush in one direction, in line with the wood's grain where possible. Brush slowly and smoothly, almost like you're 'petting' the surface with the brush, and use long, flowing strokes. Also, try to brush back into your work - that is, brush back into where you've already varnished - this will help prevent 'pulls' in the finish.
Lastly, never, never, never apply any finish in direct sunlight - it will bubble for sure, particularly when dealing with wood. So try to do it in the shade, and under a cover (to prevent falling debris), and shoot for a ambient temperature between 70-78 degrees, if you can.
BTW, I use foam brushes to apply my finishes - I know purists will cringe, but they really are better than bristle brushes, and you're not tempted to re-use them and then impart previously-collected debris into your finish.
-
Night Sailor
- Admiral
- Posts: 1007
- Joined: Mon Dec 26, 2005 4:56 pm
- Sailboat: MacGregor 26X
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applying urethane
Nice job kmclemore.
I was the owner and manager of a professional finish operation for 13 years in nice hot, humid Florida. We specialized in pianos and antique restorations, but took in all kinds of furniture and cabinets. The only things I would add to the above instructions are these:
Some urethanes flow on quite thin. Be sure to keep the brush full so it floats easily across the surface. If you feel it drag on the wood or previously sanded surface, then it needs to be refilled.
If doing this at night, beware of moths or other night creatures attracted to your lights. If an insect gets in the coating, don't leave it until it dries, as you would with a opaque coating. The stuck body parts will show. Remove the bug and let that coat dry. Sand the small disturbance out before your next coat.
If you use high gloss and decide later you prefer satin, use 0000 steel wool and paste floor wax like Johnson's to rub the whole piece in line with the wood grain. Let dry thoroughly then buff as much wax as possible off. It will leave a nice glowing finish that is hand rubbed satin without changing color or wear properties.
I was the owner and manager of a professional finish operation for 13 years in nice hot, humid Florida. We specialized in pianos and antique restorations, but took in all kinds of furniture and cabinets. The only things I would add to the above instructions are these:
Some urethanes flow on quite thin. Be sure to keep the brush full so it floats easily across the surface. If you feel it drag on the wood or previously sanded surface, then it needs to be refilled.
If doing this at night, beware of moths or other night creatures attracted to your lights. If an insect gets in the coating, don't leave it until it dries, as you would with a opaque coating. The stuck body parts will show. Remove the bug and let that coat dry. Sand the small disturbance out before your next coat.
If you use high gloss and decide later you prefer satin, use 0000 steel wool and paste floor wax like Johnson's to rub the whole piece in line with the wood grain. Let dry thoroughly then buff as much wax as possible off. It will leave a nice glowing finish that is hand rubbed satin without changing color or wear properties.
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ssichler
- First Officer
- Posts: 342
- Joined: Thu May 04, 2006 9:22 am
- Location: Redondo Beach, CA 06 M 60hp E-Tec
Good advice here. Wish I still had some exterior wood on my boat to maintain... ha. My crew was of no help.
That urethane is probably more scratch resistant than regular varnish. Those wood handle foam brushes at WM are perfect for single use. With exterior wood at least you want to avoid wool steel as it will leave little flecks that can rust. Marine supply stores should carry a better copper (?) wool. Varnish is commitment in regular maintenance coats. Once you let it go you can be faced with the task of having to completely remove and start over.
That urethane is probably more scratch resistant than regular varnish. Those wood handle foam brushes at WM are perfect for single use. With exterior wood at least you want to avoid wool steel as it will leave little flecks that can rust. Marine supply stores should carry a better copper (?) wool. Varnish is commitment in regular maintenance coats. Once you let it go you can be faced with the task of having to completely remove and start over.